3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
So yesterday my girl is driving her camry on the other side of town when in the middle of going 70mph on the interstate the cars rpm's go to 0! She pulled over and tried to start and it turns over fine and strong just wont run, like it doesnt get fuel. She said it has done nothing but run fine before this happened. The car had a tune up a couple months ago with wires, plugs, cap and rotor and fuel filter. So today i go out and get a new fuel pump because when turning the key on you dont hear the pump run. So i assume its that and i just get done replacing the 130 pump and SAME THING!! No sounds from it and no starting!!
Any suggestions or anyone have a similar prob?
I'd greatly appreciate any and all help because she needs this car for school and work!
I went out and popped off the cap and turned it over and the rotor moves so at least not the timing belt. I then pulled out one of the wires and checked for spark and nothing! so i grabbed a new plug, plugged the wire into it and checked again and no spark on the plug..... so would this be the distributor or something else?
If this would be the distributor does anyone know of a place to get one? i mean i know toyota or pep boys but i wasnt sure if maybe our club had a discount place or just a good known place to get them.
Last edited by Mjakaz95LE; 09-30-2007 at 05:40 PM.
I went out and popped off the cap and turned it over and the rotor moves so at least not the timing belt. I then pulled out one of the wires and checked for spark and nothing! so i grabbed a new plug, plugged the wire into it and checked again and no spark on the plug..... so would this be the distributor or something else?
If this would be the distributor does anyone know of a place to get one? i mean i know toyota or pep boys but i wasnt sure if maybe our club had a discount place or just a good known place to get them.
If you can open the Ignition Section of the repair manual .... see sticky at top of page, there is a method to test the ignition coil, and also the pickup coil, using an ohmeter. .... If you find that one or the other is faulty, you could probably get a replacement at a salvage yard ... or probably a complete distributor .... just switch out the defective part.
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98 Camry LE, 2.2L, automatic
50k miles, drop in K&N A/F recent timing belt, water pump
It can't be the distributor, all the distributor does is spin the rotor to allow the spark to jump the gap between the tip of the rotor to the electrodes in the cap at the right time. If the distributor still spins when the engine cranks over then it's fine. Since the cap and rotor, wires and plugs are fairly new it can't be those either, but you could check each plug for spark to be totaly sure. I'd put my money on the coil or ignitor. Check the wire connections to the coil. Make sure they're not loose, cut, broken, and check that everything is firmly pluged in.
With any repair, start by doing the simple and cheap stuff first. Check that everything is pluged in. Look for any loose wires, corroded terminals, or hoses that may have come off. Check the functionality of the parts that you think have gone bad before replacing any of them. You found that out the hard, and expensive way by replacing a fuel pump that may have been working fine to begin with. When all else fails consult a professional to diagnose the problem. Once you know what the problem is, you may be able to fix it yourself for cheap with salvage yard parts.
It can't be the distributor, all the distributor does is spin the rotor to allow the spark to jump the gap between the tip of the rotor to the electrodes in the cap at the right time. If the distributor still spins when the engine cranks over then it's fine. Since the cap and rotor, wires and plugs are fairly new it can't be those either, but you could check each plug for spark to be totaly sure. I'd put my money on the coil or ignitor. Check the wire connections to the coil. Make sure they're not loose, cut, broken, and check that everything is firmly pluged in.
With any repair, start by doing the simple and cheap stuff first. Check that everything is pluged in. Look for any loose wires, corroded terminals, or hoses that may have come off. Check the functionality of the parts that you think have gone bad before replacing any of them. You found that out the hard, and expensive way by replacing a fuel pump that may have been working fine to begin with. When all else fails consult a professional to diagnose the problem. Once you know what the problem is, you may be able to fix it yourself for cheap with salvage yard parts.
Your right it wasnt the distributor, i replaced the entire thing to attempt to get this car running last night so she can get to school this morning. O well im done with it, after i get off work today im having it towed to the toyota dealer and they can figure it out. Sure as hell cannot wait to find out what it is at this point! So far with the first tow ive got $310 in it. So the next tow will be 60 plus the 80 bux to diagnose and of course whatever it ends up being.
Could it be the Computer? Or is there a relay or fuse for the fuel pump, because the new pump still didnt make any whining sounds at all, is this normal on camrys? See im a Pontiac/GM guy so not knowin much on toyotas and if they have SUPER QUIET pumps, but u sure as hell can hear them on GM cars!
... Not completely clear as to whether you have eliminated spark as the problem.
If you think fuel pump is possibility, the following are relevant.:
...check the 7.5 amp Ignition fuse. ... located in J/B no. 1 ...
under driver side dash panel.
...could also be the EFI Main Relay. Located in J/B no. 2 ... the fuse box under hood, to the right as you raise the hood.
...also, the Circuit Opening Relay controls the current going to the fuel pump. It is located in Relay Box no. 6, behind the glove compartment. ... You might be able to reach it from under the passenger side dash.
All of the above control power going to the fuel pump, as well as other factors, such as the ECU.
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98 Camry LE, 2.2L, automatic
50k miles, drop in K&N A/F recent timing belt, water pump
Yuck, dropping $310 in it and THEN getting it towed to the stealership? You must be made of money. I'm almost positive it's your ignition coil, but I don't know if it's in the distributor or external on your car...
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I'm strongly against picketing, but I'm not sure how to show it...
Again, before replacing any part of a car, find out what the real cause of the problem is first. Don't just assume that a part is bad and replace it. Check it carfully, to see if it still works. He's already gone through a fuel pump and a distributor, and still hasn't solved the problem. The most obvious problem is that there's no spark. So, I'm still betting on either the coil or ignitor module or any fues and relays that are related to those parts.
All of those that said IGNITION COIL...... You were right!
Well toyota calls me today and turns out the mechanic workin on my car was in my HS auto mechanics class and he has worked there for 8 yrs! i graduated in 96. He explains to me the ignition coil inside the distributor is bad and is putting 7ohms of resistance and max is 4!! So he says no spark getting thru. I said i just put that stupid OEM REMAN in sunday. He tells me.... well, its a bad reman. So they tell me it will cost $244 + tax to fix so i have them put in a new toyota distributor and since i work across the street at the chevy dlr they are gonna knock some of the labor and parts and even throw in a coupon! Since they felt sorry for me wasting my money and want me to come back to them first before hand. I sure as hell will now!!
So i call pep boys and tell them the prob and they are going to refund my money and give me the core back. $140 back for that towards toyota repair per pep boys mgr!
All of those that said IGNITION COIL...... You were right!
Well toyota calls me today and turns out the mechanic workin on my car was in my HS auto mechanics class and he has worked there for 8 yrs! i graduated in 96. He explains to me the ignition coil inside the distributor is bad and is putting 7ohms of resistance and max is 4!! So he says no spark getting thru. I said i just put that stupid OEM REMAN in sunday. He tells me.... well, its a bad reman. So they tell me it will cost $244 + tax to fix so i have them put in a new toyota distributor and since i work across the street at the chevy dlr they are gonna knock some of the labor and parts and even throw in a coupon! Since they felt sorry for me wasting my money and want me to come back to them first before hand. I sure as hell will now!!
So i call pep boys and tell them the prob and they are going to refund my money and give me the core back. $140 back for that towards toyota repair per pep boys mgr!
Thanks everyone for all the suggestions!
I realize this thread was last active almost 18 months ago but thank you for taking the time to come back and post the final outcome. I found this thread while doing a search on a problem I was having with my car and this thread was very helpful. I was having very similar symtoms and it turned out to be the same problem. Again,, thank you for posting the outcome.
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