3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
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While my sister-in-law was driving the car, it suddenly stalled on her and will not start. I got the vehicle towed back to my house and I am trying to get the vehicle started. I am having no luck.
I have changed the spark plugs and wire (it was needed anyway). I checked for spark and it was fine. I disconnected the fuel supply (the hose from fuel filter to fuel rail), appears to be fuel coming out of the fuel filter.
Now that I have fuel and spark, the engine should at least kick over. All I am getting is the engine is turning over but no signs of starting.
I sprayed starter fluid in the intake, but no luck. It showed no signs of wanting to start. Am I missing something?
I would check to make sure your timing belt did not slip a tooth or two. Spark needs to be bright and blue so if you're not getting that then it could be the coil.
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1995 Camry Wagon LE. 2.2 4cyl, 5S-FE, Auto, 187K
I agree with checking for a broken timing belt, especially since the starter fluid had no effect. Remove the distributor cap and have someone crank over the engine while you watch the rotor. If the rotor moves the timing belt is OK. If it doesn't move, the belt has broken.
Timing belt is fine. I took off the cap and the rotor was turning. Now, if the timing jumped a tooth or two, will it still fire. It may not start, but it should still fire. I am think there may be a lack of fuel getting into the chamber. What happens when you disconnect the fuel line from the filter? Should gas be spraying from the filter when you are cranking (like a couple inches high)? I was going to change the fuel filter, but I can not remove the bottom flare nut, it is rusted on. Is the flare nut loosen the same way, counter-clock to loosen?
The spark appears to be strong. I took all 4 plugs out and grounded it to the vavle cover and cranked it over. The first time I did it with a screw and I jumped back due to the shock.
It is a 4 cyl. with about 210,000 miles.
Last edited by rocky7; 10-08-2007 at 08:56 PM.
Reason: Additional comment
If it is the fuel pump, should the engine still fire when I spray starter fuild in the intake?
I am not getting anything, it only cranks with no sign of coming close to firing.
If you've broken a couple of teeth on the TB you can still have spark but it won't be at the correct timing so you will not spark at compression. Getting flow from the fuel pump is not the same as pressure. You can still get flow with little pressure. Stalling like this is not a fuel filter problem. The bottom flare nut on the filter is standard rotation, righty-tighty, lefty-loosy. What you have to understand is it is upside down so you turn it to the right looking at it from the top to loosen. But it will be tight and you will need a back-up wrench on the filter.
Before you start replacing perfectly good parts do yourself a favor. Remove the upper timing belt cover and actually look at the belt while you rotate it. Check for slack and see if all the teeth are there. I would also set the TDC compression and check mechanical timing while you're there. Once you verify that look elsewhere.
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1995 Camry Wagon LE. 2.2 4cyl, 5S-FE, Auto, 187K
What about your ignition switch? If it is wearing out it may not be sending necessary signals to the ECU.
Check your idiot lights when trying to crank the engine. If you have the key turned on (crank I believe) but the check engine light is not on (you know how all the lights come on when you first turn the key?) that indicates that the EFI relay (or fuse?) in the engine compartment needs to be changed. This would cause a no start problem also.
Just for grins see if you have any trouble codes stored.
"If it is the fuel pump, should the engine still fire when I spray starter fuild in the intake?"
Yes it should. It should at least sputter a bit as the starter fluid is ignited.
Was the spark you saw a blue colored spark? It should be blue in color if it is intense enough to fire off the mixture. An orange colored spark indicates a weak spark.
What about your ignition switch? If it is wearing out it may not be sending necessary signals to the ECU.
Check your idiot lights when trying to crank the engine. If you have the key turned on (crank I believe) but the check engine light is not on (you know how all the lights come on when you first turn the key?) that indicates that the EFI relay (or fuse?) in the engine compartment needs to be changed. This would cause a no start problem also.
Just for grins see if you have any trouble codes stored.
Kep
I would check the main engine relay also, should be a fuse cover under the hood, pop that relay out and throw a ohms meter on there to test it. Check a repair manual to see if and what resistences you need.
I finally found out what is wrong with the car. The camshaft pulley came loose and moved around with the bolt still attached. This caused the camshaft key to elongate the cam keyhole. If I decide to fix it, I will at least need a camshaft and camshaft pulley. Maybe I will get a used head for the engine. I am not sure if it is going to be worth fixing. Thanks everyone for your help.
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