3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
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The caliper "sliding pin bolt" is frozen to the rear left aliper.
The bolt has about 1/2 inch of threads near the 14mm head from a bolt that I can remove.
When attempting to remove this stuck bolt.
1) I can hear squeaking of metal from the brake area
2) managed to get about 1/2 turn before it froze up once again
3) applied liquid wrench to bolt while tighten and loosening to the 1/2 mark
I'm attempting to place rotors and pads on the entire car but I'm going to leave this side for last. I can apply more pressure like when I first turned it loose but I'm looking for suggestions before attempting for fear of breaking the bolt, stripping threads, etc. I would "guess"that the threade are OK since I can turn 1/2 turn.
How would you attempt removing the "bolt sliding pin". Maybe remove the other sliding bolt and swing the caliper over on the stuck pin. Any ideas.
01 LE V6 camry
Last edited by REDSOXTICKET; 10-08-2007 at 09:30 PM.
The trick I always used was spinning it with an impact wrench while pulling with something on the underside of the bolt head to get it out. The thing should be greased, and over time that grease was spirited away by heat, so it's starting to corrode (not the threads, but the pin shaft). Barring impact tools, I've also had success with putting a propane or mapp torch on the area of the torque plate where the bolt resides. That'll heat it and free it up a bit inside it's bore. Once you get it out, put a wire wheel to it and glob on a spoonful of anti-seize so you won't have this problem next time.
qslim, no impact tool, I just looked at the torque plate relative to the caliper bolt area from under the car looking at the bolts. There is a rubber boot that appear to be on the bolt between the caliper and the torque plate. A torch to the plate will melt the rubber, I would need to be very accurate with the flame and it dosesn't look to promising.
What if I heat the torque plate from the out side. I don't have the tire off yet, but would a flame applied to the torque plate with the caliper swung open on the pin under question be possible.
THANK YOU
Last edited by REDSOXTICKET; 10-08-2007 at 10:15 PM.
qslim, no impact tool, I just looked at the torque plate relative to the caliper bolt area from under the car looking at the bolts. There is a rubber boot that appear to be on the bolt between the caliper and the torque plate. A torch to the plate will melt the rubber, I would need to be very accurate with the flame and it dosesn't look to promising.
What if I heat the torque plate from the out side. I don't have the tire off yet, but would a flame applied to the torque plate with the caliper swung open on the pin under question be possible. Let me know if the above is clear in explanation.
THANK YOU
Yeah, that's what I was saying, I guess I wasn't really clear. Don't put the heat on the bolt, put it on the torque plate, maybe an inch or two from the rubber boot. You can also take the boot and pull it out of the torque plate and hold it up against the underside of the bolt head with a pair of pliers to keep it away from the fire.
I'll attempt to protect the rubber boot by some creative means. You gave me an idea and that is if I can slid the boot ever so slightly from the torque plate then I can apply liquid wrench to the sliding bolt but I would need to clean the boot so that the oil in the liquid wrench does't deteriate the rubber boot. Do you think that will help?
If cost is not too big an issue then just buy a new rebuilt caliper for that side and save yourself a lot of trouble.
It sounds like you have loosened the pin bolt past the threaded portion and now just have a seized pin to deal with. I would not use heat. I would take the caliper off and sit it on its side with the bad pin down. Spray some PB Blaster into the pin bore past the rubber boot and work the pin back and forth then let it sit overnight.
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1995 Camry Wagon LE. 2.2 4cyl, 5S-FE, Auto, 187K
I was able to get the pin out by heat with a little smoke. The little rubber sleeve at the end of the pin remained in the boar, needed to remove with stiff wire. Stillrun, good idea.
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