3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
I just hit the 53k mark. Winter is around the corner so I want to do some serious maintenances. I am up to date in terms of oil change, oil/air filter, brakes, tires, alignments, light bulbs etc.
However, I have NEVER flushed/replaced the coolant, transmission, differential and power steering systems. I checked my transmission fluid last week and it was kinda blackish which concerned me. I called Tires Plus and they said it would cost $220 to get the coolant and transmission flushed out. That price is pretty steep for a college student.
Do you guys think I should do a complete flush for these things or can I just drain and fill? I figured if I just have to drain and refill... then I can do that my self. If I do it my self... where/how can I dispose the old fluid? However, if I should flush them then I think it would be better a mechanic did it. What would be a fair mechanic price to get these things done? Also, should I change the filters for these things or wait around 60k to change filters?
Thanks in advance for any feedback!
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00' Toyota Camry LE | I4 Automatic - Bone Stock
Coolant flush is easy- do it urself since ts alot like an oil change- and grab some red toyota coolant for about $40/2gal. To dispose, just throw it down the storm drain- it'll just get recycled. Trust me, I've done this plenty ov times with coolant, motor oil, gasoline..etc.
tranny flush: about $80 at a mom and dad shop.
Forget chain repair shops- they're only have one thing. Moneys. Oh ya- i'm j/k about dumping shit into the storm drain. You can usually just drop 'em off at your local auto parts store for disposal.
I removed the pan on mine a few weeks ago... there was a lot of gummy thick fluid on the bottom ... I'm glad I checked. I don't think you can get it clean with just a flush.
Not much of a job .. 2 hours at most. Just draining and filling .... one more time will make 3 for me. You get about 2.6 quarts out when you drain the trans fluid .... total about 4 quarts.
A lot of people say a flush is sufficient ... I don't agree.
.... Also you want to drain the differential fluid ... separate case on Gen 4.
.... Check my previous post list for a writeup if you want more details.
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98 Camry LE, 2.2L, automatic
50k miles, drop in K&N A/F recent timing belt, water pump
You can drain and refill the trans but as posted only about 2+ quarts will come out. As such you will need to do this 3-4 times over a short driving period to start showing up clean fluid on the dipstick.
If draining the diff unless the trans has single filling point for both diff and trans (the dipstick tube) make sure you find the filler plug and that it can be loosened. A few owners have drained the fluid only to find they cannot remove the filler plug.
The power steering fluid can be cleaned up over time by removing the fluid in the reservoir with some kind of large syringe or a differential fluid removal tool (like a grease gun but draws out the fluid), siphoning, etc. Do this a number of times and fluid will be clean.
The trans, diff and PS should take the same fluid most likely Dexron. Dispose of the fluid at auto parts stores that recycle motor oil or often cities have hazardous waste stations that will take the oil (and coolant) for free.
Don’t drain coolant it into a storm drain as some cities route the water directly into the river or ocean untreated. Check with you sewer district, often the sewer system is set up to handle small quantities of coolant.
You can drain and refill the trans but as posted only about 2+ quarts will come out. As such you will need to do this 3-4 times over a short driving period to start showing up clean fluid on the dipstick.
Thanks guys for the quick responses. What exactly is a "short driving period"? Like with in 1000 miles or with in a few days or what?
Also, when I drain the transmission/diffential... since only some comes out... do I refill with the amount that came out?
Thanks!
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00' Toyota Camry LE | I4 Automatic - Bone Stock
Yes..just refill what came out. Puts marks on a container showing 1/2 quart markings all the way up..this way you can easily tell how much came out and know how much to put back in. To get most all of the old tranny fluid out...you will need to do this several times. The differential should only need to be drained/filled once. You'll get most all of the oil in one shot draining it. And another IMPORTANT thing....make sure you can get the fill plug off FIRST for the differential. People on here have drained it and then been unable to get the fill plug off, resulting in not being able to get new fluid in.
There are writeups on this forum for both tranny and differential fluid changes. Search for them and they will be of great help.
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1993 Camry LE I4 Bone Stock - 380,000 miles (as of Aug '11)
1993 Camry XLE V6 Bone Stock - 260,xxx miles (as of July '11) Blown Head Gasket
2003 Chevy Trailblazer EXT I6 - 107,000 miles (as of Aug '11)
a question, I am going to change the diff and tranny fluid, but in my garage, I only can pull my car on a ramp. Could someone advise: if the car is not leveled, it is still ok to change tranny fluid? Is there any potiential problem?
Sure you can change the coolant, it is not too hard and of course you are going to want to do it now before winter.
I just park it somewhere i have access to a water hose. There are a few important points to keep in mind:
1. Dont flush a hot engine. Better to do it in the morning with the engine cool or slightly warm. (Hit a hot engine with cold water and it wont like it a bit - a good way to crack the block - so just dont do it. Never repeat never add water to a hot engine unless it is running. ) 2. Open the drain at the bottom of the radiator. Is yours doesnt have a radiator drain or you cant find it or think it might break something if you remove it, just remove the lower radiator hose. Makes a big mess but the water comes out pretty darn fast.
3. Drain out the old stuff into epa approved container in an approved manner approved by EPA, OSHA, AQMD, SCAMD, and the local dog catcher etc. Close cooling system. Add water. Turn on heater full blast to flush the heater core too, and run engine for about 5 minutes. Drain again.
4. I never use any flushing chemicals. My logic is a) a healthy cooling system doesnt need them and b) on a clogged cooling system its probably too late, plus c) it is really hard to make sure you get all of it out and if you leave a little in it is not going to do your cooling system any good - so for these reasons i hardly ever use any flushing chemicals.
5. Drain it again. Fill it with water again. Now you should run it till the thermostat opens so you can flush the block, about 10 minutes. (I dont remove the engine drain plugs for several good reasons - i've never been able to find them, they are hard to get to to remove, you risk stripping them out, and i am lazy).
6. Drain it again but not fully - you dont want to add cold water to hot engine remember? Now run the engine and add water and flush it and the block once more. Drain well.
7. I NEVER use premixed coolant! It is a rip off, you are paying full price for 1/2 the coolant and oyu know where to find the water hose. Also your concentration of coolant will be too low - you want at least 50% and no more than 70% and you are going to have at least a qt or two left behind in the engine no matter what you do. So i always use the ful concentrate and then just go overboard on the coolant concentration a little (figuring top ups later will be plain water).
It was refreshing to hear that you were concerned about recycling your fluids. I did a search for recycling and my town and got several hits. I suspect that you could do the same. Also, check with your college. They probably have a maintenance department for their vehicles and they might accept your stuff. Most towns have some sort of facility to accept used oil & antifreeze as well as other chemicals and paint. Many auto parts stores will accept used oil, don't know about antifreeze. Local, civic minded, mechanics will sometimes agree to accept fluids but they probably have to pay to get them picked up.
I'm not sure about the 2000 and newer cars but with the 90s vintages I always figure to change the transmission fluid every 30,000 miles. You're a little over that but you should still be OK. Since draining the pan only gets out 2+ quarts I have tried to drain and fill every other oil change. I figure that way it will get new fluid every 30,000 miles. I am not a proponent of flushing transmissions but if you do it from the beginning it is probably a good thing.
Don't forget xtremeskier97's advice to make sure that you can remove the differential filler plug before you drain the differential. Though I remember a recent post on one of the Toyota Nation Camry sites suggesting that on a newwer model there was a drain port but it filled up from overflow from the transmission. I don't know this myself. Check into it if you think it applies to your Camry.
hgbee, no problem draining and filling the transmission on ramps but keep a closer eye on how much fluid you drain out so you can refill the same amount back. The dipstick won't be accurate. You still would need to check the level again, with the engine running, after bringing the transmission up to temperature.
Kep
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Often, it's the loose screw between the steering wheel and the driver's seat that needs to be fixed first!
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