Possible oil leaks underneath timing cover....

[xtremeskier97]

I need to figure out what all seals are underneath the timing belt cover. Im going to be replacing my timing belt soon and I have an oil leak coming from that area..so I want to be able to replace all seals/gaskets that I can while Im in there.

These are the ones that I can think of....are there any others?

Crankshaft front oil seal
Oil pump gasket/o-ring
Oil pump seal



Id like to be able to buy everything I need before I do the job...as I only have 1 car.

Thanks!

[OMNI]

if it isn't broke, dont fix it.

[xtremeskier97]

There IS a leak...hence why Im asking this question.

[toyomoho]

Camshaft seal, plus don’t forget checking out the valve cover gasket (a more common source of leaks). There is not a lot of room to work in this area thus unless a seal is actually leaking might just leave it alone.

If the timing belt or other components need changing, with the covers off now would be the time.

[xtremeskier97]

Yes..the timing belt needs to be changed....its over 110,000 miles on it and with oil leaking in there...it's kinda scaring me.

[digmycelica]

You need to change the water pump and thermostat while you're in there , You know they are not going to last another 100,000 . pack the oil pump with vaseline when you go back up with it. might as well get every seal and water pump at the dealer , if the first set lasted 100,000 that is good enough proof to go back with the same. otherwise you'll be back in there sooner than you think.
hope this helps

[1996camry]

i have the same problem in my 96 toyota camry le 4cylinder 5sfe engine... it's the oil seal(outside) and oil pump seals(inside).. you have loose the bolts and take oil seal (outside) out and get a hammer tap..to get the oil pump off..the oil seal (like a rubber band) behind the oil pump... if u clean out really good and replaced... NO MORE leaks on my car after i done that...hope this help..only way to know for sure..when do timebelt...replaced all seals..because u never know when it leaks....seal cheap...i got OEM from deal or buy online OEM toyota website...save u alot of money if you buy a lot on line..i got everyting for my car online only 130 bucks...

my car has 118k miles...

[dc_98_cam]

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t185674.html

[xtremeskier97]

Originally Posted by digmycelica

You need to change the water pump and thermostat while you're in there , You know they are not going to last another 100,000 . pack the oil pump with vaseline when you go back up with it. might as well get every seal and water pump at the dealer , if the first set lasted 100,000 that is good enough proof to go back with the same. otherwise you'll be back in there sooner than you think.
hope this helps

When I mentioned the belt had 110,000 miles on it....that's not how many miles are on my engine. That's just how many miles are on that timing belt. I have 324,000 miles on my camry. The water pump was replaced at the same time as the timing belt...so the pump has 110,000 miles on it also. Does that need to be changed already?

So in summary, Ive now got this list:

Crankshaft Front Oil Seal
Camshaft Seal
Oil Pump Gasket/O-Ring
Oil Pump Seal
Valve Cover Gasket Spark Plug Tube Seals (have a little oil in one tube)

Oil Pan Gasket


...and while im at it, possibly change the Water Pump and Thermostat while changing the Timing Belt.



Any other seals/gaskets that I should look at?

And thanks for that link...very good pictures to follow. I have bookmarked it!

[digmycelica]

I don't think you need a oil pan gasket unless you are sure that it's leaking. That doesn't have to be removed to do the other work. Yes the water pump should be changed now and really everytime the timing belt is changed. The dealer pump cost more but has the back housing as well so you only reuse the thermostat neck. If you go with a cheap aftermarket pump it want last long and you will still have to remove the whole unit because they hid a countersunk screw on the backside of the pump so separation is impossible without removing the whole unit anyway. I would try tightening the 4 30mm nuts on top of the valve cover too see if they are loose before I would change the gasket and plug seals
Let me know if you have any other questions..

[dc_98_cam]

change the Water Pump and Thermostat

Suggested routine maintenance to replace these items.

My original water pump only lasted 44k mi. I bought a new pump from NAPA, which required disassembly of the original unit. ... Not too much work.

The only difficulty was a stubborn Phillips head bolt on the back .... This will come loose if you strike it at an appropriate angle .... I used a 'prick punch' to do this. A Phillips screw driver ... if that's actually what it is .... some variations exist, just doesn't have the required torque or gripping power to remove this bolt. You should get a replacement bolt with the new pump kit. ... I also used a sealer on the new gasket ... use sparingly .... spread with finger before assembly.

I used a dealer purchased thermostat and gasket... The OEM thermostats have the small wiggle valve, to be placed at the 12 o'clock position. ... This allows any air bubbles to be purged, without any addition action.

[xtremeskier97]

So does it look like I have all the required parts listed above to do this complete job? Im wanting to do this soon, as I dont want to get stranded from a broken timing belt.

[Kep]

You may need to replace the timing belt tension spring and idler pulley. I don’t recall if there is a separate oil pump belt. If there is you may as well change it. Don't forget to use an O2 sensor friendly sealant (not silicone).

Kep

[dc_98_cam]

Several parts stores offer a timing belt kit .... containing the timing belt, and either one or both idler pulleys. There is a spring on the upper idler pulley which should be replaced. If the spring is not in the kit, the dealer has one. The repair manual instructions say to remove the idler pulleys and examine for leakage of sealed bearings and smooth operation. However, it may be expedient to just replace them at high engine mileage...

Also take note of the proper repair manual procedure for final adjustment and tightening of the upper idler pulley, after the timing marks are checked to be correct. .... The crank pulley requires a certain sequence of revolutions before setting the torque of the upper idler pulley bolt.

[digmycelica]

I would still use the dealer pump because it comes ready to install without having to screw with that philips screw. A tensioner and idler pulley kit from autozone or car quest would be usually of equal quality and much cheaper . with over 300,000 on these, I would change them..