Air conditioning not working for a while - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums


» Auto Insurance
» Featured Product
» Wheel & Tire Center

Go Back   Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums > Toyota Passenger and Sports Car Forums > Camry and Solara Forum > 3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)

3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001 Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

ToyotaNation.com is the premier Toyota Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 10-19-2007, 09:28 PM   #1 (permalink)
Official TN Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Charlotte
Posts: 74
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
View LineInTheWater's Photo Gallery
Air conditioning not working for a while

Now that I had such a confidence boost from bringing my car back to life, I figured I should ask you guys about my A/C. A few summers back, the A/C was working great. The next spring it was just blowing hot air. I vaguely remember some mechanic putting his pen in a rubber plug or something and saying there was no freon in the system. So, a few questions:

1. Is there a way I verify all the R12 is gone?

2. I know that camrys have issues with expansion valves .... of course, I don't know where the valve is located. Anyone have ideas on how to troubleshoot the leak, without any R12 actually in the system?

3. If I find and fix the leak, what are my options? I know R12 is almost impossible to get. I've heard of Freeze12 which appears to be compatible with R12. I don't know if the conversion to R134 makes sense ... what is required and how much does it really cost?

Thanks for any feedback!
LineInTheWater is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 10-19-2007, 10:34 PM   #2 (permalink)
One with the force
 
xtremeskier97's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Shreveport, LA
Posts: 1,516
Gameroom cash: $199080
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader Score: 1 reviews
View xtremeskier97's Photo Gallery
1. If the air is not blowing cold, then the freon is either gone or waay low.

2. The expansion valve is with the condensor, which is under the dash (behind the glovebox?)

3. If you have/find a leak (if the a/c is blowing hot air, then their is obviously a leak somewhere) then you should replace whatever part is leaking. To find the leak, you should have someone pull a vacuum on the system and put some freon in with dye. They will be able to tell you where the leak is. Since your freon is low, that means air is present in the system, and that is not good.

R12 is not only really hard to come by, but it costs out the #$%^ compared to R134. The conversion is cheap. All the conversion really is, is new service ports that screw onto the old service ports.

My dad and I did this when I went up to VA to pick up my camry a few months back. He works on industrial heating and a/c, so he had a vacuum and everything. All we had to buy was the service port adapters and the R134. Only cost about $40 for us, but if you have to pay someone to pull a vacuum and find the leak, then it will cost more than that.

Good luck.
__________________
1993 Camry LE I4 Bone Stock - 380,000 miles (as of Aug '11)

1993 Camry XLE V6 Bone Stock - 260,xxx miles (as of July '11) Blown Head Gasket

2003 Chevy Trailblazer EXT I6 - 107,000 miles (as of Aug '11)
xtremeskier97 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2007, 07:00 AM   #3 (permalink)
Official TN Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Charlotte
Posts: 74
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
View LineInTheWater's Photo Gallery
xtreme ... is there a way to isolate the leak before dealing with the freon? Is there some inert dye or other gas that can help reveal the problem? And what kind of industrial vacuum are you referring to?
LineInTheWater is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2007, 07:04 AM   #4 (permalink)
One with the force
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 1,526
Gameroom cash: $422950
Thanks: 0
Thanked 54 Times in 50 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
View Stillrunning's Photo Gallery
Quote:
Originally Posted by xtremeskier97 View Post
All the conversion really is, is new service ports that screw onto the old service ports.
Wrong - unless your dad is an HVAC tech.

Quote:
My dad and I did this... He works on industrial heating and a/c
LineInTheWater, if you don't know anything about A/C and have no gauges or equipment then I would either fix the leak and re-charge with R-12 or get a pro to convert. Conversion has it's drawbacks and considerations, trust me I've done two.
__________________
1995 Camry Wagon LE. 2.2 4cyl, 5S-FE, Auto, 187K
Stillrunning is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2007, 07:13 AM   #5 (permalink)
Official TN Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Charlotte
Posts: 74
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
View LineInTheWater's Photo Gallery
I would like to know the source and expense of fixing the leak before committing to buying/modifying/charging with freon. If it is over say like $250, I would probably just say forget about it. I was hoping there was some way I could do some simple troubleshooting before getting involved in the decision between R12 and R134. And does anyone know anything about this Freeze12 stuff? Is there Freeze12 with leak detection?
LineInTheWater is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2007, 08:12 AM   #6 (permalink)
One with the force
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 1,526
Gameroom cash: $422950
Thanks: 0
Thanked 54 Times in 50 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
View Stillrunning's Photo Gallery
An A/C shop can fill with R-12, source the leak and re-claim the R-12 in the system for little cost. You will probably have to pull a vacuum on the system first though for an additional charge. Just take it to a shop and get a quote. You're going to have to spend some money to find the leak and have some info to make a decision. Other solution - open a window.
__________________
1995 Camry Wagon LE. 2.2 4cyl, 5S-FE, Auto, 187K
Stillrunning is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2007, 08:39 AM   #7 (permalink)
Official TN Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Charlotte
Posts: 74
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
View LineInTheWater's Photo Gallery
I hear you ... what do you think the range of cost for troubleshooting the leak?
LineInTheWater is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2007, 11:43 AM   #8 (permalink)
One with the force
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 1,526
Gameroom cash: $422950
Thanks: 0
Thanked 54 Times in 50 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
View Stillrunning's Photo Gallery
An hour's labor? Not sure. Pulling a vacuum is a hook-up and then let it sit for a while. Leak detection might depend on what method he's using. I would recommend a speciality shop or a shop with a dedicated A/C tech.
__________________
1995 Camry Wagon LE. 2.2 4cyl, 5S-FE, Auto, 187K
Stillrunning is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2007, 04:54 PM   #9 (permalink)
One with the force
 
xtremeskier97's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Shreveport, LA
Posts: 1,516
Gameroom cash: $199080
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader Score: 1 reviews
View xtremeskier97's Photo Gallery
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stillrunning View Post
Wrong - unless your dad is an HVAC tech.



LineInTheWater, if you don't know anything about A/C and have no gauges or equipment then I would either fix the leak and re-charge with R-12 or get a pro to convert. Conversion has it's drawbacks and considerations, trust me I've done two.

My dad IS an HVAC tech...but what does that have to do with saying what I said is wrong?! Those ports are the only things you HAVE to change. They do recommend replacing the dryer though...as that is where moisture in the system will cumulate. The leak that was in my system was at one of the service ports...so when we put the new adapter on the port, it fixed it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Stillrunning View Post
An A/C shop can fill with R-12, source the leak and re-claim the R-12 in the system for little cost. You will probably have to pull a vacuum on the system first though for an additional charge. Just take it to a shop and get a quote. You're going to have to spend some money to find the leak and have some info to make a decision. Other solution - open a window.
Why would a shop put R12 in an empty system and then reclaim it after finding the leak? They will more than likely just try putting pressure in the system and try to find the leak first so they dont waste R12. R12 isnt cheap and converting it to R134 is not expensive (depending on what is actually leaking). My dad put pressure on my 86 RX-7 to find the leak. I cant remember what he used..maybe nitrogen?

Ive converted 3 cars now. My 86 RX-7, 92 Accord, and this 93 Camry. All of which I changed the ports and drier, and put in R134 after pulling a vacuum (though I did replace the compressor on the Accord because that is where the leak was). Never cost more that about $45...but like has been said before...if you dont have guages and a vacuum...you'll need to get it done by a shop. Just take it to a few places and see what they will charge.

And there is no drawback to conversion...my A/C blows ICE cold in my Camry. Got to when living in Louisiana heat+humidity.
__________________
1993 Camry LE I4 Bone Stock - 380,000 miles (as of Aug '11)

1993 Camry XLE V6 Bone Stock - 260,xxx miles (as of July '11) Blown Head Gasket

2003 Chevy Trailblazer EXT I6 - 107,000 miles (as of Aug '11)

Last edited by xtremeskier97; 10-20-2007 at 04:57 PM.
xtremeskier97 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2007, 05:13 PM   #10 (permalink)
One with the force
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 1,526
Gameroom cash: $422950
Thanks: 0
Thanked 54 Times in 50 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
View Stillrunning's Photo Gallery
"And there is no drawback to conversion"

One drawback is that R134 molecules are smaller than R12. You might find a few more leaks when 134 is installed that may require tearing the system down some more to fix. Recommended fill capacity of 134 is 80% of R12. If you don't use a high pressure gauge on refill and you just go by # of cans you could blow a few seals, even inside compressor. Typical 134 systems are more robust than R12 so a converted R12 may not put out the cool you are used to. Seal compatability is also a consideration.
__________________
1995 Camry Wagon LE. 2.2 4cyl, 5S-FE, Auto, 187K
Stillrunning is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

  Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums > Toyota Passenger and Sports Car Forums > Camry and Solara Forum > 3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
2006 Rav4 air conditioning glass406 RAV4 Forum 2 08-11-2007 03:34 PM
Wow, I need help! please! Setheroo 89-95 Toyota Pickup/Hilux 7 06-05-2007 06:44 AM
SV21 Dodgy Air Conditioning Protaeus Camry & Solara Lounge 7 06-26-2006 10:25 PM
R-12 Air Conditioning Questions thetailwind MR2 Forum 2 08-27-2005 10:20 PM
Air Conditioning fuse blows out quickly (1990 Camry Wagon) DPK99 1st & 2nd Generation (1983–1986 & 1987-1991) 2 07-02-2005 06:35 PM

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.2

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:47 AM.



Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2012, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Garage Plus vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.
ToyotaNation.com is an independent Toyota/Lexus enthusiast website. ToyotaNation.com is not sponsored by or in any way affiliated with Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc. The Toyota, Lexus and Scion names and logos are trademarks owned by Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc.