3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
ok people i need some serious help fast!
i blew up my camry about a month ago and im a good mechanic and all that over hauled it myself everything i put the motor back in the car hooked everything back up and now i have no spark! and thats where i sit now. i have checked everthing new ignitor everything. i have spark at the coil but no spark at my spark plugs. my question is can the coil get weak to the point that they just dont have the ass to put the spark through the plug or what?
its a 93 camry 2.2 5sfe oh ya sometimes i will get a couple sparks out of the plug after i check to see if there is spark at the coil but only 2 maybe 3 then it stops. and i have replaced everything but the coil!
ok people i need some serious help fast!
i blew up my camry about a month ago and im a good mechanic and all that over hauled it myself everything i put the motor back in the car hooked everything back up and now i have no spark! and thats where i sit now. i have checked everthing new ignitor everything. i have spark at the coil but no spark at my spark plugs. my question is can the coil get weak to the point that they just dont have the ass to put the spark through the plug or what?
its a 93 camry 2.2 5sfe oh ya sometimes i will get a couple sparks out of the plug after i check to see if there is spark at the coil but only 2 maybe 3 then it stops. and i have replaced everything but the coil!
There is a procedure in the repair manual on how to check the resistance specs for the ignition coil. See section on Ignition .... p. 30
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98 Camry LE, 2.2L, automatic
50k miles, drop in K&N A/F recent timing belt, water pump
It is your coil. I guarantee it.
I had a bad misfire after an engine sway in my car and it was the coil. I think the tossing around of the coil while swapping motors damages the internals (very delicate).
__________________ All of the lag, none of the boost.
VTEC It's like waiting for really bad sex.
i think its my coil too but what has me at a loss is that i have spark at it but not at my plugs.
and ive already ohmed everything out every sigle part in the ignition problem is with in the specs that they should be.
do the coils just get to weak to throw the spark to the plugs?
i think its my coil too but what has me at a loss is that i have spark at it but not at my plugs.
and ive already ohmed everything out every sigle part in the ignition problem is with in the specs that they should be.
do the coils just get to weak to throw the spark to the plugs?
How old is your distributor cap? The metal electrodes on the inside can get covered with an oxide film ....act as resistance to secondary high voltage current .... weak spark. You should have bright/shiny metal on the inside of the cap. If not .... get a new cap.
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98 Camry LE, 2.2L, automatic
50k miles, drop in K&N A/F recent timing belt, water pump
When I had that problem my ohm meter said the coil was within spec, but I would get a horrible misfire. Half the time there was no spark at the plug. So I would say yes it has just gotten incredibly weak. I think the problem with checking the resistance is that the resistance can change with heat. As the engine warms up it heats up, as current flows through the coil it heats up. It's a cheap fix though. I got a coil at Advance Auto Parts for $35.
__________________ All of the lag, none of the boost.
VTEC It's like waiting for really bad sex.
Dude, there is a procedure for checking resistance at the distributor itself too. I just had a "no spark" condition on my 5sfe 1993 Camry. Don't forget to do that. I had flaky readings at my coil (intermittently they were good, and at times they were out of spec)....but also my distributor resistance was off too.
I bought a re-manufactured distributor from Autozone (which included the coil) for ~140.00. I installed it, and no my Camry starts, runs, and drives perfect.
So what I am saying, I wouldn't promise its the coil, because it may be the whole distributor. But at least you're on the right track.
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1993 Camry LE 5SFE AT, 2006 Nissan Armada LE 4x4, 1971 Cadillac Coupe DeVille "pimp juice"
Toys: 2007 Coachmen 19FLB, 2007 Regal 1900 V6
I'm the biggest boss thatchu seen thus far! Baby, that's muh wi'zzard!
I recently had a no-start, no-spark problem with the girlfriend's 1993 5sfe. (And at the worst possible time -- 2am saturday night, on a mountain top, dressed for a wedding. We were well over an hour from her place and at least 20 minutes up a steep single-lane road.) After the long tow and some sleep I started diagnosing the problem. It was a challenge with a nearly dead battery that required a few hours of slow charging before another diagnostic attempt. I initially thought that the ignitor was the problem. I wasn't seeing any spark at all. The coil secondary was about 7K ohms, which I thought was close enough to correct value of 9K-11K ohms cold, 11K-13K ohms hot. Or at least close enough to generate some spark. I'll skip ahead here... The problem turned out to be the coil. After thinking about it for a while, I realized It's possible for a coil to have a partially shorted coil such that that it reads almost the correct resistance, but some of the secondary windings are working against the others instead of with them. So "just a little" off on the coil resistance should be taken seriously. At least enough to try another coil. Something else to check while you are there is that the contact buttons on the distributor cap are still springing out. In my searching for possible problems this was mentioned as occasionally happening.
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