Help! 98 Camry Tie Rods Bad! - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001 Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

 7Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 16 Old 11-21-2007, 02:10 PM Thread Starter
Official TN Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Tampa
Posts: 149
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
iTrader Score: 2 reviews
(Thread Starter)
4th Generation Help! 98 Camry Tie Rods Bad!

Hey Guys and Gals,

I went in for an alignment today, after about 15 minutes they came out and told me they couldn't do the alignment because the both inner and outer tie rods were bad, they didn't say which side. To change both sides, parts and labor they quoted me a price of $500+ , after leaving within a matter of two hours I was able to find it for $275. All things aside I just wanted to know was either (inner or outer) tie rods replaceable without taking it to a shop or mechanic? I am planning to do a brake job so I figured I could tackle that while I am already getting my hands dirty. If so any help or any tips would be appreciated. I did search the forums but no luck with anything on this topic. If there is something in the forums please let me know!

Thanks
John

Last edited by John5516; 11-21-2007 at 02:12 PM.
John5516 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 16 Old 11-21-2007, 03:12 PM
Senior TN Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 3,050
Thanks: 0
Thanked 204 Times in 189 Posts
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 412 Post(s)
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
I'm trying to understand the "inner/outer" tie rods?? Did they mean the tie rod ends? If so then I think you just have two, one on each end of the steering rack. Do it yourself, not hard, then take it to another shop for alignment.

1995 Camry Wagon LE. 2.2 5S-FE, Auto, 233K
Stillrunning is offline  
post #3 of 16 Old 11-21-2007, 03:21 PM
Senior TN Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: California
Posts: 2,231
Thanks: 0
Thanked 21 Times in 8 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
buy the parts yourself. You will need a "pickle fork" tool (they are cheap, $10 -20) undo the cotter pin and nut and wack them apart with your new toy. Put the new ones together, CAREFULLY measure how far apart the ends are! The new ones must be sized exactly the same or at least close enough to get you to the shop without scuffing off all your tire tread.
Alot of times people just change one tie rod end at a time and CAREFULLY count the number of turns to unscrew each piece, then screw the new ones on the exact same number of turns.
marc780 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 16 Old 11-21-2007, 03:31 PM
TN Post Wh*re
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: PNW
Posts: 6,403
Thanks: 0
Thanked 13 Times in 12 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Supreme Member
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
The steering system has two joints on each side of the rack. One at the inside of the rack end and hidden by the boot attached to the rack housing, the other is the tie rod end that screws onto the rack end and bolts to the steering knuckle.

The inside joint is permanently attached to the rod end. The outside joint screws onto the treaded rod end.

Usually the tie rod end wears out. As Stillrunning states, try to determine from the shops what joint is bad and on what side.

For prices and photos of the parts go to www.rockauto.com.

DIY would cost between $30 and $100 depending on what brand of parts you want. Aftermarket parts are just fine.

For detailed service info go to the site below:

http://www.camrymanuals.com/
toyomoho is offline  
post #5 of 16 Old 11-21-2007, 11:25 PM Thread Starter
Official TN Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Tampa
Posts: 149
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
iTrader Score: 2 reviews
(Thread Starter)
Ok guys I was looking at the manuals big help, kinda hard to understand but I will find out which ones are bad, does not look too hard to replace. Quickly just to make sure, do the tie rods themselves go bad or is it mostly the ends? Finally to get to the one covered by the boot will I have to complete take apart the wheel? I dont feel too comfortable doing that i might leave that to someone else.

Thanks again!
John
John5516 is offline  
post #6 of 16 Old 11-22-2007, 12:36 AM
Official TN Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Texas
Posts: 374
Thanks: 0
Thanked 5 Times in 3 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
On the toyotas, mostly I see inner tie rods bad. Could be either though ... or both.

The outer tie rods (tie rod ends) are easy to change. A 10 minute job even without air tools.

The inner tie rods are a little more tricky, but still not bad if you've got some nice pliers or a pipe wrench. You have to take the outer tie rod off, the take the boot off the rack housing (usually have to bust a clamp and replace it with zip ties), then use whatever tool you need to unscrew the inner tie rod from the rack.

Not that hard, there's just some cramped areas under there, and it might be awkward with the car on jack stands.

Just find out what you're up against for sure, then make a decision.

Good luck!

'96 4cyl 5spd Camry
147k miles and running out of things to fix...
Novice_cardude is offline  
post #7 of 16 Old 11-22-2007, 07:16 AM
Senior TN Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 3,050
Thanks: 0
Thanked 204 Times in 189 Posts
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 412 Post(s)
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Well I've looked at my FSM and see where the inner ends are and how they function. They look like nylon. Quite frankly if the inner and outer rod ends are gone then I'd buy a new rack with outer ends rather than try to disassemble on the car and replace, especially if you are a DYI novice. There's also seals in there and maybe a bushing to be replaced as well. If there's that much wrong with the rack then more parts are soon to fail with the extra labor. I'll bet the shop quoted replacement of the entire rake. Look on-line for rake re-build/new venders.

1995 Camry Wagon LE. 2.2 5S-FE, Auto, 233K
Stillrunning is offline  
post #8 of 16 Old 11-22-2007, 07:43 AM Thread Starter
Official TN Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Tampa
Posts: 149
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
iTrader Score: 2 reviews
(Thread Starter)
4th Generation

Quote:
Originally Posted by Stillrunning View Post
Well I've looked at my FSM and see where the inner ends are and how they function. They look like nylon. Quite frankly if the inner and outer rod ends are gone then I'd buy a new rack with outer ends rather than try to disassemble on the car and replace, especially if you are a DYI novice. There's also seals in there and maybe a bushing to be replaced as well. If there's that much wrong with the rack then more parts are soon to fail with the extra labor. I'll bet the shop quoted replacement of the entire rake. Look on-line for rake re-build/new venders.
The $500 dollars they quoted me was inner and outer tie rods for both sides, labor for two and half hours and a wheel alignment. No other parts or anything, if it was the whole rack they would have tried to rip me off with probably adding another couple hundred dollars on the bill.

But anyways I am going to get a second opinion before I do anything. If they say the same thing I'll find out which sides are bad, if its the outer I will do it myself. Unfortunately if its the inner tie rod, I will take it in and have them replace it at the lower priced shop. I will keep you guys posted and for anyone in the future who runs across this problem.

Thanks for all the help!
John

Last edited by John5516; 11-22-2007 at 08:33 AM.
John5516 is offline  
post #9 of 16 Old 11-22-2007, 03:01 PM Thread Starter
Official TN Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Tampa
Posts: 149
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
iTrader Score: 2 reviews
(Thread Starter)
I was under the car this morning, I saw the outer tie rod from the condition it looked fine, just to make sure the inner tie rod is inside the boot rite?? Either way I'm taking it to a shop to double check it again!

Thanks!
John5516 is offline  
post #10 of 16 Old 01-27-2017, 11:44 PM
Senior TN Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Sonoma CA
Posts: 1,558
Thanks: 3
Thanked 185 Times in 171 Posts
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 212 Post(s)
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
as a reference point, tie rod ends (outer) may "look fine" but be totally sloppy and worn; new ones are stiff as hell. The inner tie rod end is up under the boot but if it flops around when you pop the end out its due for replacement too. Both are ball joints and should be TIGHT!
tedmich is offline  
post #11 of 16 Old 01-28-2017, 12:23 AM
Senior TN Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 1,019
Thanks: 39
Thanked 123 Times in 111 Posts
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 281 Post(s)
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by tedmich View Post
as a reference point, tie rod ends (outer) may "look fine" but be totally sloppy and worn; new ones are stiff as hell. The inner tie rod end is up under the boot but if it flops around when you pop the end out its due for replacement too. Both are ball joints and should be TIGHT!
Lol, liked for a useful update to a several-year-old thread
CamryFL and luvmy98camry like this.
insightbrewery is offline  
post #12 of 16 Old 01-28-2017, 12:02 PM
Official TN Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 211
Thanks: 163
Thanked 6 Times in 6 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 111 Post(s)
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by insightbrewery View Post
Lol, liked for a useful update to a several-year-old thread
I liked it too because I got excited that atleast one more abandoned thread had the OP come in and update how things ended.

For all we know, the OP went to the second cheap shop and that shop stole the car and put the OP in the trunk while they were at it.

That would explain why the OP deserted the thread
CamryFL likes this.

1998 Camry. 5SFE: 2200CC 16-VALVE DOHC EFI. Model: SXV20L-AEPNKA
luvmy98camry is offline  
post #13 of 16 Old 01-28-2017, 12:19 PM
'00 4 Cyl. Auto Camry LE
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: NH, USA
Posts: 182
Thanks: 22
Thanked 28 Times in 28 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 29 Post(s)
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Liked for the useful info. - the outer tie rods were both bad, and after removal, both inner tie rods were loose (had excessive play / slop) when I changed them @ 215,000 on the Camry here.
CamryFL is offline  
post #14 of 16 Old 01-29-2017, 01:40 AM
Senior TN Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Sonoma CA
Posts: 1,558
Thanks: 3
Thanked 185 Times in 171 Posts
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 212 Post(s)
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Wow see what happens when I turn over a rock, look at all the action!

I'm doing my left outer tie rod as it got torqued when I went wide on a dirt road, car pulls right now...
gotta straighten it out for its 4 new Defenders...

I didn't notice it at first because of the 2 lbs of clay mud on the inside of the rim, hardened in concrete and gave a real bad wheel shimmy at 60-70mph, tried pressure washing rim, no dice, had to use a wood chisel!

Last edited by tedmich; 01-29-2017 at 01:46 AM.
tedmich is offline  
post #15 of 16 Old 01-29-2017, 02:30 AM
Senior TN Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 1,019
Thanks: 39
Thanked 123 Times in 111 Posts
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 281 Post(s)
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by tedmich View Post
Wow see what happens when I turn over a rock, look at all the action!

I'm doing my left outer tie rod as it got torqued when I went wide on a dirt road, car pulls right now...
gotta straighten it out for its 4 new Defenders...

I didn't notice it at first because of the 2 lbs of clay mud on the inside of the rim, hardened in concrete and gave a real bad wheel shimmy at 60-70mph, tried pressure washing rim, no dice, had to use a wood chisel!
http://parts.olathetoyota.com/blog/9...-go-offroading
insightbrewery is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

  Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums > Toyota Passenger and Sports Car Forums > Camry and Solara Forum > 3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)

Bookmarks

User Tag List

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome
« Back