3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
Alright, first thing happened, when i tried to start my car there was a extremely rapid clicking.. I have experinced this before when i had a bad battery.. I got the battery replaced
4months later, I try to start the car.. Same thing happend.. I dont believe its a bad battery?
I get it brought to autozone, they test the battery, its good. He said something is draining the battery, b/c he watched it being drained while he had it hooked up.
So i was sure it was the starter or alternator
Today: I just went to autozone, after removing the Starter and Alternator, taking both to be tested.. Both PASSED
Now im lost? I have no idea what it could be? Any help would be greatly appreciated, any questions that i missed, just ask, and i will try and shed some light.
EDIT: Currently to keep my car working, i unplug the ground wire to for the battery so whatever is running the battery down does not harm it.. and i just hook up it up before i go somewhere and its fine..
Alright, first thing happened, when i tried to start my car there was a extremely rapid clicking.. I have experinced this before when i had a bad battery.. I got the battery replaced
4months later, I try to start the car.. Same thing happend.. I dont believe its a bad battery?
I get it brought to autozone, they test the battery, its good. He said something is draining the battery, b/c he watched it being drained while he had it hooked up.
So i was sure it was the starter or alternator
Today: I just went to autozone, after removing the Starter and Alternator, taking both to be tested.. Both PASSED
Now im lost? I have no idea what it could be? Any help would be greatly appreciated, any questions that i missed, just ask, and i will try and shed some light.
EDIT: Currently to keep my car working, i unplug the ground wire to for the battery so whatever is running the battery down does not harm it.. and i just hook up it up before i go somewhere and its fine..
Sounds like you have a parasitic draw somewhere. If you have a meter and you're comfortable with doing a little poking around, it's not too tough to begin to isolate where the problem is. All cars now will have a little draw when the car is off because of various timers and clocks in the computer, but not enough to kill the battery during normal usage. I don't have the exact figure infront of me, but ball park acceptable draw is 20 - 30 miliamps (.02 - .03).
-Get a meter, set it to the proper scale, disconnect the - battery terminal and put the meter in series. Shut the car door, take the key out, and let the computer go to sleep (30 secs or so).
-Look at the amperage the meter is showing. This is the juice that the car is drawing while it's sleeping. The theory here is to start pulling fuses and unplugging things to isolate the circuit that is pulling the current while the car is off. When you find it, the reading should drop down to an acceptable level.
-Start with anything aftermarket, these are usually the prime suspects (radios, amps, radar detectors, cell phone chargers, etc.). Check the alternator and starter too, because the test at autozone wouldn't necessarily reveal a current draw problem. Pull the starter relay and disconnect the battery wire from the alternator.
Anyway, that's a start. Hope it gets you in the right direction.
Many times I have seen this type of accessive "dark current draw", as it's called, traced to a defective aftermarket alarm system. If you have an aftermarket alarm on the car, it would be the first thing I would check, using Qslim's procedure. They usually have an inline fuse on them.
Mike
Last edited by Mike Gerber; 11-25-2007 at 02:21 PM.
Kind of like qslim proposed, put an in-line meter (or light) between the battery and the battery cable (I don't think it matters if it is the positive or negative one). You should get a light or a meter reading. Start pulling the fuses one by one (keep track of which one came from where) until the current stops (light dwindles or meter reading drops to normal). Once you determine which circuit (fuse) is responsible you can begin checking the accessories on that circuit..
Kep
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Often, it's the loose screw between the steering wheel and the driver's seat that needs to be fixed first!
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