3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
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Hi -For starters. This is a great forum. I'm glad I stumbled on to it. I have a 96 Camry DX just purchased used for my daughter. Replaced the leaking radiator including hoses and flushed the system completely. The car temp gauges registers normal after 5 minutes or so but the air blowing out is semi-warm after the obligatory 15 minute warm up in the MN cold weather. After a 45 minute commute it's finally blowing out warm air where you need to turn the temp down. The coolant levels are fine. I had this done at my friends shop. I'm thinking they didn't check the thermostat and that it's not working right sticking etc. He's out of town so I can't call to validate with him if he changed or not. The 2 bolts where the thermostat housing attaches to the engine look untouched so that's my hunch. Any other idea's? Thanks for your help. Dave
If the dash temperature gauge indicates normal temp after 5 min., then I would not suspect the thermostat. You might take a look at the water valve, which controls the water going to the heater core. There are two hoses connected to the water valve. It has been suggested that with the engine off, you can disconnect the hoses at the water valve, flush out the heater core, and insert a pencil or some object into the water valve to determine that it is not clogged .... inspect for free operation .... not sticking.
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98 Camry LE, 2.2L, automatic
50k miles, drop in K&N A/F recent timing belt, water pump
Well you are in Minneapolis and it is December after all so if it takes 5 min to warm up - if the thermostat were stuck open it would probably NEVER warm up, so im thinking maybe your heater core may be plugged up with rust or something.
If the dash temperature gauge indicates normal temp after 5 min., then I would not suspect the thermostat. You might take a look at the water valve, which controls the water going to the heater core. There are two hoses connected to the water valve. It has been suggested that with the engine off, you can disconnect the hoses at the water valve, flush out the heater core, and insert a pencil or some object into the water valve to determine that it is not clogged .... inspect for free operation .... not sticking.
I would agree with the heater core or something along those lines
if the coolant temp needle moves, then it's not the thermostat
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HaHa
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"Life is a deep sleep, of which love is the dream..." Ripped...and the girls are loving it.
i would start with the thermostat. should have replaced it when you had all the cooling system work done. spring on the tsat could be worn out. just cause the needle moves doesnt mean the tstat is working.
Last edited by sheepwundr; 12-01-2007 at 03:05 PM.
I'd second that. Had them fail such that they opened way too quickly/early. Had some heat but not nearly enough. You can check it in a bowl of water and a candy thermometer in microwave or stove but if you have it out I'd just replace it. Mine was supposed to be 170 but opened fully at 140. Huge difference.
I am reading this thread to learn anything about my problem. I ran hot but did not overheat, after replacing the radiator. It cracked and I had to replace it. I changed the T-stat and it seems that everything is ok except... The upper Rad. hose gets very hot, almost too hot to touch; yet the lower hose isn't even warm, almost cool. Now I am wondering if the water pump is bad? Heater blows hot as normal. 365,000 miles on 4cyl. '95 Camry, original owner.
Hey - Quick reply to my original post. Mystery solved.............checked the heater control valves and one of them wasn't opening fully. Adjusted that and now everything is nice and toasy in the car. Thanks for everyones help again and Happy Holidays to all.
Dave
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