Emission Test Failure. Camry 1997 4 Cylinder Auto

[Seema Saeed]

Hi all

Can anyone please guide me, what to do, as my Camry (97, Auto, 4 cylinder), failed the emission test. The inspector never told me why it failed, but apparently, there is no problem, no warning light etc.
The car otherwise runs perfectly.

Here is the test result at 40km/hr
HC ppm: Limit 60 Reading: 25 Pass
CO %: Limit 0.33 Reading: 0.54 Fail
NO ppm: Limit 0450 Reading: 67 Pass
RPM: Reading: 1177 Valid
Dilution: Reading: 14.71 Valid

The test result at CURB IDLE is as under:
HC ppm: Limit 200 Reading: 12 Pass
CO %: Limit 1.0 Reading: 0.0 Pass
RPM: Reading: 698 Valid
Dilution: Reading: 14.40 Valid

Please guide me, as I am a student and can not afford to spend a lot of money, just on hit and trail.

Thanks a lot

Seema

[eurohazard]

Originally Posted by Seema Saeed

Hi all

Can anyone please guide me, what to do, as my Camry (97, Auto, 4 cylinder), failed the emission test. The inspector never told me why it failed, but apparently, there is no problem, no warning light etc.
The car otherwise runs perfectly.

Here is the test result at 40km/hr
HC ppm: Limit 60 Reading: 25 Pass
CO %: Limit 0.33 Reading: 0.54 Fail
NO ppm: Limit 0450 Reading: 67 Pass
RPM: Reading: 1177 Valid
Dilution: Reading: 14.71 Valid

The test result at CURB IDLE is as under:
HC ppm: Limit 200 Reading: 12 Pass
CO %: Limit 1.0 Reading: 0.0 Pass
RPM: Reading: 698 Valid
Dilution: Reading: 14.40 Valid

Please guide me, as I am a student and can not afford to spend a lot of money, just on hit and trail.

Thanks a lot

Seema

I saw this online:
"High CO readings during cruise indicate a rich fuel condition. Causes here may include:
Defective O2 sensor;
Exhaust leaks upstream of the O2 sensor (check manifold gaskets and air plumbing connections);
Defective AIR pump or diverter valve (also loose or damaged air pump plumbing);
Defective MAP, MAF or VAF sensor"

But usually bad O2 sensors trip the check engine light. I hope someone can help you better. How clean is your air filter?

[EchoHoLiK]

Was the car well warmed up and ready to go prior to the testing? You know, most of the time the car owners will put the time and effort into driving the car for a long period of time before arriving at the test centre, so the car is all warmed up and ready to be tested (which should yield good results due to the car being warmed up). Unfortunately, maybe due to the lineup or whatever, the examiner will come and test your car after it has been sitting in the parking lot (in the cold) for maybe an hour or two, where the car has already been cooled down, hence the emission test won't be "efficient" anymore, which will yield poor results.

Bottomline is, most of the time it's not the owner or the car's fault. It's the test centre staff's fault. And to say that they're "innocent" or ignorant about testing the car while it's cold is utter bullocks, since by giving you a "fail" or a "conditional pass", that equates to you (as consumer) having to pay even more money to get retested, or get things fixed (even though they're working fine), which means more money to their pockets.

And when your inspector never told you why it failed, it's time to get suspicious. Overall, DriveClean is a cash-grab

[Seema Saeed]

Thanks to all

I agree, that the car was quite cold, just drived for a few minutes, before going to test centre, whereas there was snow all over.

Someone told me to put High Octane and solution for cleaning the sparksplug, and it can help improve the results, if there is no problem with tha car? Any idea about this?

Looking...

Seema

[EchoHoLiK]

Originally Posted by Seema Saeed

Someone told me to put High Octane and solution for cleaning the sparksplug, and it can help improve the results, if there is no problem with tha car? Any idea about this?

It's not necessary.

Originally Posted by Seema Saeed

I agree, that the car was quite cold, just drived for a few minutes, before going to test centre, whereas there was snow all over.

Those are the main reasons that your car failed the emission test. So let this be your lesson learned.

Next time, drive around for at least 30-45minutes prior to your test appointment, and make damn sure to find out who your car's examiner is, and make a note to that examiner (and don't afraid to be "blunt" about it, but not "impolite") that he/she should have the car in the proper working temperature before testing the emission. And if you can, stay there for the whole test, and observe and document everything that might give your car unfavorable results (such as if you saw your car getting tested like an hour passed the appointed time, when it's sitting outside in the cold, and if you witness that the examiner didn't put the time in letting the car warmed up properly).

Hopefully you'll have better luck next time. And seriously, I don't think there's anything wrong with your car, and I'm sure others here will agree. And if the inspector/examiner couldn't tell you what's wrong, then enough said


EDIT: Just to add, by just letting the car "idle" until it warms up does NOT mean the car is properly warmed up. The car has to be driven around for a period of time until everything gets into proper working temperature.

[toyomoho]

High NO is the result of high combustion temps. The EGR system may not be working, vacuum leak.

High HC's are can be caused by ignition misfire, vacuum leak, oil consumption.

High HC, NO and CO can be caused be a poorly functioning catalytic converter.

[Kep]

From your data, the only failed gas was CO at 1177 RPM (curiously, your CO emissions were 0 at idle). CO is normally taken care of by the catalytic converter. Increased CO emissions result from a rich fuel mixture (could be as simple as a clogged air filter or a much more complex combination of sensors, ECU, cold air injector malfunction, failing O2 sensor(s), malfunctioning MAF, plugged PCV, high fuel pressure, faulty fuel metering etc). This also kicks up the HC emissions which in turn increase the catalytic converters temperature which can damage the cat.

Simple first steps might include cleaning the throttle body (take off the air hose and manually clean), PCV (if your model has one) and fuel injectors (initially with a gas additive). Check the plugs, wires, cap and rotor. You could also check the cold air injector timer switch and injector (if your model has them). The sensors require more complex inspection techniques.

If you can take it back more than once for not too much money do the stuff that you can and see if it helps enough. Definitely bring the car in at operating temp. If it still doesn’t pass then take it to a pro.

Kep

[Black95Cam]

long shot but, what about giving seafoam a try?

[dc_98_cam]

Seems to be a marginal failure ... not too great, but over the limit.
I used to have a Ford Lincoln that required an 'exercise' period on the highway prior to being inspected .... I would find an empty lane, and floor the gas pedal for 5 sec. or so, maybe 2 or 3 reps.
If I didn't go through this ritual, the car wouldn't pass the annual inspection.

[Hajoca]

I have gone to a couple auto garages near my house for an E test before and noticed that the E test is not of high priority. Check with the same garage again and see if they will make sure that the coolant is at operating temperature (Just below the half way point in our cars).

Next time, I would suggest going to a larger chain type service center, which has a dedicated area and technicians for E-testing. Active Green at the Promenade mall (Sears) had 2 technicians when I went there this September that only did E-test. I found that their turnaround time was pretty short, about 25 minutes per car.