3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
Forgive me if I've posted this question before (I couldn't find it though), but I have a 1993 Camry with a 3VZ-FE V6. Has anyone here ever tried to work on the power steering pump on such a vehicle before? From what I can tell, based on limited clearance in the engine bay, you'd almost have to remove the engine to get at this thing... or you'd have to have some pretty special tools and x-ray vision to see where you're working.
Am I missing something?
__________________ 1992 Camry SE V6 5M, Dark Emerald Pearl (Japan Build) 1993 Camry SE V6 4A, Sunfire Red Pearl (Kentucky Build) 2007 Camry SE V6 6A, Barcelona Red Metallic (Kentucky Build) Okay, okay, so two are actually my wife's cars...
well iver never worked on teh pump my self cept replace an entire one but working on it in the engine bay is nearly impossible from what i can tell. this may help. i remember haynes manual being a little more helpfull since it has real life pics and not drawings.
well iver never worked on teh pump my self cept replace an entire one but working on it in the engine bay is nearly impossible from what i can tell. this may help. i remember haynes manual being a little more helpfull since it has real life pics and not drawings.
Yeah, I own an actual (in print-- how very old school!) set of Toyota maintenance manuals for my 92 and 93, but they're (purposely?) vague about the job. Sure, you can do what they say if you had the engine out of the bay, but take one look at what you're trying to do and you immediately ask "Just how do I put a wrench on that?"
__________________ 1992 Camry SE V6 5M, Dark Emerald Pearl (Japan Build) 1993 Camry SE V6 4A, Sunfire Red Pearl (Kentucky Build) 2007 Camry SE V6 6A, Barcelona Red Metallic (Kentucky Build) Okay, okay, so two are actually my wife's cars...
From what I remember of the engine compartment in those cars, I think it might be easier/more possible to get the pump out if you lifted the car and took off the wheel and splash guard. There might still be some car in the way, but it's a lot better than making like rubber and getting at it from the top.
Also if you can get it high enough, you might be able to get to some tricky spots from the bottom.
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'96 4cyl 5spd Camry
147k miles and running out of things to fix...
yeah...I think the only way to access it is from the bottom...don't think it's possible from the top...
if you do it and find out an easy way of doing it, let me know...lol. I have to change mine due to a leak somewhere, and I'm stumped as to how to change it when I've only got about an inch of space to work with...haven't had the time to tackle it yet
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HaHa
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"Life is a deep sleep, of which love is the dream..." Ripped...and the girls are loving it.
It comes out from the bottom with PS wheel removed. Tight fit though. Don't frustrate yourself trying to rebuild it, replace with rebuilt with lifetime warranty.
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1995 Camry Wagon LE. 2.2 4cyl, 5S-FE, Auto, 187K
Obviously Eye8Pussies my post wasn't meant for you, but it seems that specific replies are limited to quoting only.
I guess my post was geared more for those members that can't seem to forego enough beer money to purchase an $18 Haynes Manual. As to your question on how the wheel is held on, it actually uses aftermarket chrome "Turbo" lugs that the manufacturer claims has an aerodynamic design which gives a 1/4 HP boost at 6000rpm and 130mph (no dyno test neccessary). With these installed you'll be the envy of all your street racing buddies.
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1995 Camry Wagon LE. 2.2 4cyl, 5S-FE, Auto, 187K
well, hopefully the haynes manual is gives more practical advise than the factory manual, because that thing is beyond vague on how to actually take the damn thing out
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HaHa
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"Life is a deep sleep, of which love is the dream..." Ripped...and the girls are loving it.
since i have taken mine out 4 times. where do i start tools umm your gonna need some
-12mm socket
-14mm wrench and a 14mm socket (short and long) to unbolt the actual pump of the wrench. and some extensions
-17 and 24 wrench thats for the hard lines the go to the rack and to the fan motor.
-needle nose pliers for the return hoses to the pump
-prybar
- o and some small hands!!!!
remove passenger side wheel
that was the easy part now the fun part
1. first with the 14 socket and a long extension remove the bolt that allows you to make tension on the power steering belt, dont remove it completly yet now take your prybar you need a long one, find a leverage spot and push the bolt upwards until the belt is completly loose remove the belt. now you can completely remove the bolt.
2.now the bolt you just removed from step 1. the bracket that bolt was removed from thats gone, you use a 14 socket not the short socket but long socket and removed that bolt but be very careful its in a okward position u cant really see it unless you squeeze your head all the way in the wheel well. dont strip it cuz if you do the motor has to come out.
3.ok well if your still confused its gets worst. now there is only one more bolt and the pump drops. now you cant see it realy its all by feel and you need a a long 14socket and the short extension the nubby one, ok so from where the center of the power steering wheel use your left hand and go straight up and forward youll feel it. if not keep searching becuase its up there! ok with your right hand and the socket shuv it up there locate the bolt and hope u could break it loose. and the pump should drop
4. this is simple take the needle nose pliers and unclamp both rubber return hoses off the pump and go back up where the diagnostic cable is; pull the lines u proably could see them from there from the top, pull them off the pump if you didnt drain your fliud well then... just have something to catch all the fliud.
5. now that those are off if you creep and look under everything is in plane sight, and if you look from the top u should be able to see the the connector thats connects the the solenoid to the harness on the motor. now unplug it. but u also have the unbolt the connector of the pump its a 12mm if you look from up top you could see it use a couple long extensions and pop that out or you could do it from the bottom with a 12 wrench.
6. now the hard line when u look at the lines you will see the lines one in front and one in the back. in order to get to the back one u need to break and remove the front line. if you just try and break the 17 u could loseen the big nut on the bottom so 2 prevent that u need a 24 wrench to hold that in place and they should break loose. after that nothin else holding the pump a couple of twist and turns and it comes right out.
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