3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
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1998 toyota camry i4. i had similar problem earlier and fixed it. but today i replaced the trunk lid and the taillight fuse blows everytime i turn them on. previously i regrounded the wire to the quarter panel and it worked up intil i replaced the trunk. the reason i had the problem the first time is becuase i was rear ended and the rear body panel was bent and was not fully connected to the car.
so now i grounded the wire to the chasis as well as any other place in the rear you could think of. the replacement trunk had lights in it, i tried with those as well as switched them for my old ones.
in the middle of the trunk instalation i was trying to pull the rear body panel out some, but this shouldnt be the reason because i tried grounding the wire to almost evrything and blew about 15 fuses, all taillight 10 a fuses.
someone please help. i have read all the threads i could find about tail and stop light problems.
also when i do turn the lights on and it blows they turn on for a brief second and then the fuse blows. the brake blinker and reverse lights all work. also the wire harness is in good condition, like i said they all worked before i replaced the trunk lid.
Are you absolutely sure the wires inside the hinge area wire loom are all intact?
Seems like the hinge area wires are prone to breaking .... due to hinge movement and activity.
The tail light wires are marked as being green with orange stripe ... in the Gen 4 wiring diagram.
If nothing else, try getting a replacement Light Failure Sensor unit from a local salvage yard .... Cant think of anything else at the moment. ... One time I had a tail light fuse go out due to an internally shorted tail light socket ... but that is extremely unlikely.
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98 Camry LE, 2.2L, automatic
50k miles, drop in K&N A/F recent timing belt, water pump
As dc states check the area where the harness splits off and jumps from the chassis to the truck lid for issues with breakage. Length of ground wire would not be important.
On rare occasions a tail/stop light filament can break and cause an internal short in the bulb.
As dc states check the area where the harness splits off and jumps from the chassis to the truck lid for issues with breakage. Length of ground wire would not be important.
On rare occasions a tail/stop light filament can break and cause an internal short in the bulb.
If you have thoroughly inspected the hinge wire loom for breaks, try removing the tail light bulbs, all of them, and see if the fuse still blows .... in line with what toyomoho suggests. If the fuse does not blow with all the tail light bulbs removed, then replace bulbs one at a time until you find the faulty one.
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98 Camry LE, 2.2L, automatic
50k miles, drop in K&N A/F recent timing belt, water pump
still need help
first i disconected the wire harness from the tail lights, blew the fuse. i then got a very long wire and ran it to the negative battery terminal to see if it may be the ground, turned the lights on with the harness disconected from the tail lights, blew the fuse.
then i unwrapped the whole harness until it splits under the trunk hinge and throughly inspected all the wires. all were in good conditon.
so i cut the wires about 7in from the split to try to narrow it down, stil blew the fuse.
i do not know what to do, i still think it may be the ground because i had this problem before because i was hit and the rear body panel where the harness is grounded was not connected to the quarter panel, and i ran a ground to a screw on the quarter panel and it worked fine until i replaced the trunk lid. and the lid came with lights and it blows fuses conected to both light assemblys. but i have no idea.
are there anytype of other fuses, like the big box fuses that have anything to do with the tail lights?
the wires are still cut though when i disconected the failure sensor. would the wires being cut cause the fuse to blow when i tested with the sensor disconected
There is a solid green wire going to the license plate lights ... The diagram shows it starts off as one green wire, then goes to a junction and splits into two solid green wires as it goes to the license plate. Does this green wire appear to be intact ... not rubbing anything, no pinches?
What about temporarily cutting the solid green wire near the junction .... to see if that is the problem?
You can splice it back later.
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98 Camry LE, 2.2L, automatic
50k miles, drop in K&N A/F recent timing belt, water pump
the wires are still cut though when i disconected the failure sensor. would the wires being cut cause the fuse to blow when i tested with the sensor disconected
Don't think that would be the case ...if I understand correctly.
Probably something else.
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98 Camry LE, 2.2L, automatic
50k miles, drop in K&N A/F recent timing belt, water pump
There is a solid green wire going to the license plate lights ... The diagram shows it starts off as one green wire, then goes to a junction and splits into two solid green wires as it goes to the license plate. Does this green wire appear to be intact ... not rubbing anything, no pinches?
What about temporarily cutting the solid green wire .... to see if that is the problem?
You can splice it back later.
there is also a green and orange as well as red that splits and they are all intact. they were sepratly wrapped when i took the harness apart
would the harness being totaly cut off by the hinge make the fuse blow.
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replaced trunk & taillight fuse blows
recent timing belt, water pump
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