Car jerks while driving and dies. - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

Mahonri · 01-02-2008, 11:45 AM

Hello All,

I've got a 99 Camry V6 LE with about 95K miles that has been driving fine for the past month. Last night I started it cold, and had been driving for about 10 minutes, when suddenly the car started jerking as if it were seizing up or something and the motor stopped right in the middle of the road.

It felt like I had run out of oil. I pushed the car to the side of the road and checked the oil, it was full. The radiator fluid was quite low, but I could still see fluid in my reservoir.

I don't think it is the alternator -- Neither my headlights or dashboard lights dimmed during the incident.

After letting the car rest for a few minutes, I successfully attempted to start it again. I managed to drive it back home real slow, so I could avoid a tow charge. On the way home, it jerked back and forth several times
but it did not die.

Does anyone have any idea what the problem could be? Dirty fuel injectors? Bad spark plugs? I have never had any problems like this with this car.

dc_98_cam · 01-02-2008, 12:00 PM

What is your timing belt status? At 90k mi. or so, you need to replace timing belt and water pump. If TB is not an issue, get a spray can of starter fluid, spray into air intake for one or two seconds as you try to start the engine. This should tell you whether or not the problem is fuel related.

Mahonri · 01-02-2008, 12:12 PM

I've been meaning to get my timing belt replaced for some time now. I know you're supposed to do that at 90K, but haven't done it yet. Can I tell from just looking at it, that this is the problem?

dc_98_cam · 01-02-2008, 12:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mahonri

I've been meaning to get my timing belt replaced for some time now. I know you're supposed to do that at 90K, but haven't done it yet. Can I tell from just looking at it, that this is the problem?

I don't have the V6, but on the I4 engine, you have to remove the upper timing belt cover. ... You bring the crank shaft pulley around until the slot mark is at TDC ... and then examine the Cam Pulley to see if that is properly aligned.

Also examine the timing belt itself. If it is dry, brittle, or has cracks or tears, it will have to be replaced.

Stillrunning · 01-02-2008, 12:27 PM

Even though you are close to the TB change (miles anyway) that may not be your problem, but I would check it anyway. If the 99 V6 is an interference engine you will have bent a couple of valves if the TB slipped, that can be checked with a compression test. If the TB is broken the car would not have started and run. I've had jerking with fuel and ignition problems. A bad coil can cause this or fuel starvation and it's hard to tell the difference as both behave the same under load. It would be nice to have a dynamometer close by so you could test the engine under load and stationary. Does the engine operate ok under light load; steady speed, flat terrain?

Mahonri · 01-02-2008, 12:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stillrunning

A bad coil can cause this or fuel starvation and it's hard to tell the difference as both behave the same under load. It would be nice to have a dynamometer close by so you could test the engine under load and stationary. Does the engine operate ok under light load; steady speed, flat terrain?

Well, I live in Texas -- it's pretty flat here, so it wasn't getting much of a workout.

I was driving real slow under light load and it was exhibiting this behavior. The temp outside was in the mid 40's.

I'm going to go see if I can get the TB cover off and examine the belt. If it looks okay, I may try spraying some starter fluid in the air intake to see if that makes a difference. How can I tell if the water pump has gone bad?

dc_98_cam · 01-02-2008, 12:42 PM

The Gen 4 version doesn't have a distributor.... or the associated coil.
If the engine will run, a shop can check the timing using a timing light and scan tool.
The procedure is outlined in the Gen 4 V6 Mechanical section of the online repair manual ... see p. 10.

dc_98_cam · 01-02-2008, 12:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mahonri

. How can I tell if the water pump has gone bad?

There should be a small orifice or aperture visible on the perimeter of the water pump... If you see a build up of mineral or precipitate, or any fluid in this area, the pump is defective. .... If it is like the I4 engine, you will want to replace the water pump at the same time as the timing belt.

dc_98_cam · 01-02-2008, 12:49 PM

Just a suggestion .... download the Gen 4 Online Repair Manual ... go to Gen 5 Forum, top of page, see list of downloads.
Then examine the V6 Mechanical section ... diagram of the belt area, p. 14, will show relevant bolts and parts. ... Not sure, but you might have to remove the lower timing belt cover before you get the top one off....You will have to remove the crank shaft pulley to get the lower cover off.

Mahonri · 01-02-2008, 01:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dc_98_cam

Just a suggestion .... download the Gen 4 Online Repair Manual ... go to Gen 5 Forum, top of page, see list of downloads.
Then examine the V6 Mechanical section ... diagram of the belt area, p. 14, will show relevant bolts and parts. ... Not sure, but you might have to remove the lower timing belt cover before you get the top one off....You will have to remove the crank shaft pulley to get the lower cover off.

If the timing belt is the problem, is this something an amateur like me could replace in my own driveway?

Also, if it is a bad fuel problem or condensation in the fuel, is there something I can add to the fuel tank that would clean it up without having to empty it? Strange thing is I usually try to put good fuel in it. Chevron most of the time including the last refueling.

***toyomoho*** · 01-02-2008, 01:10 PM

If the engine stalls when letting up of the gas check IAC valve, if pressing the gas check MAF sensor. The consensus appears to be the 1MZ-FE is non-interference but those with VVT maybe. Unless the belt is obviously damaged, a visual inspection may or may not give an accurate representation of belt condition and possible breakage.

Kep · 01-02-2008, 01:54 PM

It's pretty unlikely but a clogged fuel filter would do this as well. You would notice the problem much more at high RPMs than at low RPMs.

Kep

Mahonri · 01-02-2008, 02:08 PM

If it's the water pump that has gone bad, wouldn't the engine temperature shoot up? I didn't observe any out of the ordinary temperature change on the gauge anyway.

I found the manuals, thanks for pointing those out. They will be amazingly helpful!

I also went to go have a look at the TB cover case. I can see where the bolts are to take it off. Looks like it may be fairly involved. I think I better rule out whether it is a fuel issue first. I'm going to try adding a fuel "dryer" like "heet" or something first to see if that does the trick. I'm gonna just pray my TB doesn't break in the meantime.

Spartan0536 · 01-02-2008, 05:13 PM

My friends truck did the exact same thing that your camry just did and he had blown the tranny. Check your tranny fluid o change it depending upon how old it is, when changing check for metal scraps or any kind of foreign debris. When you change tranny fluid get a tranny flush it may elp anyway with a shaky idle and shifting. You might also want to check your EGR system and see if everything is working right. Most importantly check the EGR Vaccuum filter it is commonly overlooked and cheaply & easily fixed.

Stillrunning · 01-02-2008, 06:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mahonri

I'm going to try adding a fuel "dryer" like "heet" or something first to see if that does the trick.

What's the temp there? Water in the gas lines can freeze and reduce flow. If the fuel filter is under the hood then it's probably ok against freezing when engine warm.