3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
I have a 98 Camry with about 68K. Most of the time the car starts and idles fine. However, sometimes it starts fine but immediately dies unless I give it gas. As soon as I release the gas, it dies. If I drive it immediately for about a 1/4 to 1/2 mile, it is fine.
I took it to my local Midas guy and it finally did it for him after leaving it there overnight. He said it is the Idler Control Valve. He said he called the Toyota Dealership and they told him that this is common for the 98 Camry. He wants $549 for parts, labor and tax to replace the ICV.
I have read that I could try cleaning it. I have also read that it could be the coolant sensor as well as other things. I have a rip off Wheelz warranty that will not cover the ICV because it is not listed as a covered part.
Question: Based on the info I provided, should replacing the ICV fix my issue?
Last edited by nkrause; 01-02-2008 at 01:16 PM.
Reason: grammar
Idle Air Control system .... a rotary solenoid .... probably a resistive device with a rotary arm. You can get a spray can of electrical contact cleaner and see if you can clean any moisture or dirt out of this part .... It is located on the front of the engine block .... see part I1, on p. 29 of the Gen 4 electrical wiring diagram ... assuming you have the 5S-FE engine.
The ECT is part E5, shown on p. 28 of the wiring diagram, for the 5S-FE. If you download the Gen 4 Diagnostic section, you will find a temperature vs. resistance chart to give you information regarding the specifications for the ECT.
Suggest trying the idle air solenoid first ... might just be some humidity or moisture buildup on that sensor.. Disconnect and clean terminals/plugs with spray cleaner.
See the Gen 5 forum page ... at the top you will find a download link for the Gen 4 online repair manuals ...97-01.
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98 Camry LE, 2.2L, automatic
50k miles, drop in K&N A/F recent timing belt, water pump
First off...............don't go paying any $500 for an ICV!
If you search you'll find this topic posted a few times. Mine does it too. Dunno exactly what it is & it's anything but consistent in *my* '98.
Anywhoo........I once had a problem where my throttle had a "sticking" point at the very beginning, so I cleaned the throttle body right at the opening (remove intake plastic crap to get right to it) and also the butterfly valve itself. (I basically didn't do much more than spray the heck out of it w/ TB cleaner). That's been fine for a couple years now, so that was my "sticking" problem.
I figured that took care of my "stall" problem too, but every once in a while mine will do it too.
I think I heard somebody say to clean the MAF sensor (somewhere in that plastic intake crap) but I can't remember.
id just have it cleaned out or clean it yourself before you go spending 500 bucks
and if it does need to be replaced, buy the part offline (much cheaper) and have someone install it cheaper....
I have a 95 camry 5SFE and my car used to do what yours di but then I gradually got worse, I replaced the plug wires and plugs with the cap & rotor, I cleaned my air filter and also got a new intake (better one than the Ractive POS). I finally figured it out after reading a haynes manual for my car and I took aart the EGR Vaccuum "Solenoid?" inside there was a exhaust filter that had never been changed so I went on down to Napa Autoparts and got a generic Exhaust filter block and custom fit it to my EGR Vaccuum "solenoid?" and that fixed my problem right there. your case could be different but the replacement cost me under 3 dollars to do, its defiately worth doing cosidering that filters should be changed on a regualr basis anyway and the fact that it was extremely easy and inexpensive to do. Try my solution and let me know if it works for you. I wish you the best of luck.
One last thing: DO NOT GIVE THAT MECHANIC 500 to do something that you can do yourself with a repair manual for more that half the cost.
Last edited by Spartan0536; 01-02-2008 at 04:52 PM.
Reason: Additional Important Information
If this is a 5SFE engine, removing the throttle body, IAC, EGR, EGR modulator and cleaning them all should not be a major deal if you are reasonably handy. The IAC and EGR will likely be packed with crud and need to be carefully picked out (dental picks work pretty well) and cleaned. The throttle body can be cleaned with throttle body cleaner (read the label to make sure that it is safe for the throttle body plastics) and a tooth brush. Check the vertical tube that the EGR is mounted on as well as the rubber tubes to the modulator (I think this is the "solenoid" mentioned above). If you have done this before I expect that it will take most of a day to do this. If you haven't, plan on all weekend. Read up on disassembly and assembly first. If you decide to have a mechanic do it I would get some other quotes. $549 seems kind of steep just for and IAC valve.
When you get some more time,after you put it all back together, run some SeaFoam through the vacuum line to the throttle body to try and clean the interior of the engine. Put SeaFoam in the gas tank at a fill up and it will help clean other parts of the engine. About a day before you change the oil put SeaFoam in the oil and drive around for about 60 - 100 miles before you change the oil.
It is a process but after you are done your engine should nice and clean and run better. You can do searches on this forum and the GEN 1&2 forum for several good posts with step by step proceedures and pictures.
Kep
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Often, it's the loose screw between the steering wheel and the driver's seat that needs to be fixed first!
FRACKIN TOYOTA!!!!!!!!!!!! DAMN THEM ALL TO HELL!!!!!!! hat was a wonderful website, it covered all the stuff my Haynes manual didn't. This just goes to show how they try to screw us over by going to the stealer-ship for info & parts.
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