Crazy Camry help - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

burkej62 · 01-08-2008, 09:33 PM

Hi all I'm new. I have a 94 camry, 4cl/auto. Recently it died , it just dosen't want to rev above 2.5 grand it cuts out and sputters. I looked up how to pull codes, found out the bulb for the light wa smissing, replaced that and when I jumper TE1 and E1 the light flashes non stop with no pauses or breaks as there should be. Does anyone understand this primitive code system enough to help?

Thank you.

J_Phu · 01-08-2008, 09:44 PM

That happened to me once after I washed my engine. My car would sputter and die if I rev it pass 2K. All I did was reset the ecu and dat cured the prob.

burkej62 · 01-08-2008, 09:54 PM

I'm afraid this is more than resetting the ECU, I've done that several times to no avail. I need to get some codes .

bigdaddymak20 · 01-08-2008, 10:03 PM

When it flashes non stop it means there are no codes stored codes. Sounds like a fuel problem, ie bad fuel, clogged filter or pressure problem.

burkej62 · 01-09-2008, 06:00 PM

It's got a new fuel filter and pump. My shop manual says if there are no codes it will flash once and stop?

Thanks

Camryamnesty · 01-09-2008, 06:36 PM

How does the throttle body look? Have you ever seafoamed? What did you do before it starting acting like this? Anything? or just regular driving?

xtremeskier97 · 01-09-2008, 08:07 PM

Sounds like no/bad spark on a cylinder or 2. Could be bad cables (had a split in one of mine where it went into the engine to connect to the plug, and when I stepped on the gas hard, the strong spark was shorting out against the inside of the plug tube, causing what you are talking about), cracked distributor cap, bad rotor, bad distributor, bad spark plugs, etc.

burkej62 · 01-09-2008, 08:16 PM

I never sea foamed it, maybe I should. It has 360K

I was driving it as normal, and I tried to pull out at a light and it got to about 10 mph and just studders .

I tried the codes again and it just flashes very quickly it dosen't seemed to be an actual code rather just a constant flashing. Perhaps I am testing it wrong, can someone tell me the proper way to test it?

I will try some sea foam. Maybe blocked injectors?

It doesn't idle too well either, and when it's running I can smell gas faintly.

burkej62 · 01-09-2008, 08:47 PM

I don't know if this is possible but, I put it in test mode and tehn started it. It idle poorly but the motor revved up much better than before? It reved freely for once? Took it out of test mode and tried again and it was back to its crap again ...

Coincidence?

I shall add it has new wires, plugs and and dizzy cap. All less than two months old

***toyomoho*** · 01-09-2008, 09:57 PM

If no codes are stored the light will flash with no pauses. It is possible that no codes are stored.

Pull out the plugs and check to see if any are damp with gasoline or show signs of improper firing. Check the coil.

xtremeskier97 · 01-10-2008, 10:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by burkej62

....I shall add it has new wires, plugs and and dizzy cap. All less than two months old

Did the problem start after these were replaced or was it happening before?

Even if they ARE only 2 months old...one of them could STILL be bad. Id look at them closely to see if there are any problems.

Kep · 01-10-2008, 11:15 AM

At 360k (miles or kilometers?) your baby is definately due some cleaning wheter or not it solves this particular problem. If this is a 5SFE engine, removing the PCV valve, throttle body, IAC, EGR, EGR modulator and cleaning them all should not be a major deal if you are reasonably handy. The IAC and EGR will likely be packed with crud and need to be carefully picked out (dental picks work pretty well) and cleaned. The throttle body can be cleaned with throttle body cleaner (read the label to make sure that it is safe for the throttle body plastics) and a tooth brush. Check the vertical tube that the EGR is mounted on as well as the rubber tubes to the modulator (I think this is the "solenoid" mentioned above). If you have done this before I expect that it will take most of a day to do this. If you haven't, plan on all weekend. Read up on disassembly and assembly first.
When you get some more time,after you put it all back together, run some SeaFoam through the vacuum line to the throttle body to try and clean the interior of the engine. Put SeaFoam in the gas tank at a fill up and it will help clean other parts of the engine. About a day before you change the oil put SeaFoam in the oil and drive around for about 60 - 100 miles before you change the oil.
It is a process but after you are done your engine should be nice and clean and run better. You can do searches on this forum and the GEN 1&2 forum for several good posts with step by step proceedures and pictures.
I don't know why you are smelling gas. I don't think the above will help that. It may. Look around your fuel injectors and fuel rail for an especially clean spot. This would be an indication of a gas leak. Maybe something is happening at higher RPM that causes a leak and in turn messes with the smooth running of the engine. But I don't believe that anything other than a leak results in being able to smell gas. Comments?
Xtremeskier97's point about the ignition parts is quite possible.
Kep

burkej62 · 01-12-2008, 10:16 AM

I sea-foamed it today and cleaned everything and can't seem to find my problem... I can get it to rev to about 2.5-3 K if I hold the throttle just right, mash it and it dies. As soon as it's in drive its chug chug chug again No codes ? I added dry gas to the tank to see if it might be bad gas??

No vaccum leaks or gas leaks . The gas smell is gone . It idles fine still, even better since the sea foam . While holding it at 2.5-3K rpm it will sound perfect and then every now and then it misses and the revs drop , then it recovers and climbs again ? This happened suddenly while driving ? Perhaps I need to do a compression test? There is no water in the oil so the HG is okay..

One of the plugs was very white/yellow while the rest were either light brown or slightly black/oily. I think thats a sign this plug has been pretty lean. Perhaps fuel pump not being able to keep up under load?

95camryT · 01-12-2008, 11:42 AM

I am also having the same proble mwith my 95 2.2L V4 / Auto camry.
Its a newly rebuilt motor, with not many miles on it. It hasnt been drove in over a year.

I can't seem to figure out what the problem is, if i mash the gas pedal if revs up then just kinda bogs down like theirs a fuel shortage or fuel isnt getting fast enough.

Im gonna check the fuel injectors and spark plugs when I get home.
Is their any special way I need to set the spark plugs?

rebel8ball · 01-13-2008, 12:31 AM

that sounds like you need to try replacing the cap again, and maybe a wire or plug, if you have the old stuff, try putting it back on, just one piece at a time, sounds weird but if they were ok then youll find the bad piece without having to throw money at your car...part of the reason when just upgrading, or replacing, if the old parts werent 'bad' i save them for a month or 3 to make sure the new ones will perform up to par.it deffinately sounds like a lack of spark issue, and with caps it can be new and bad, and when it starts to heat up it will expand, if its cracked it will let in water or other 'stuff' and then you have arcing, which can cause all sorts of funny things to happen...