3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
Here's the problem. 1993 camry starts, idles, gets warm, but upon entering any gear will shutter/stutter, get sluggish and die. The process speeds up when I apply gas. I can get the car to move forward a few feet at a time. But the process worsens every next attempt. Sometimes it stutters in gear, hesitates, then surges forwards, and repeats or most often dies.
car info-
1993, 4 cyl, automatic, a/c... I changed the radiator, rad cap, thermostat, and heater core. It ran fine at that point, aside from needing to get the bubbles out. But the battery was low from sitting. I charged the battery and everything went down hill after the disconnect.
Interesting detail-
From the block to the radiator is a hose. It's the top hose to the radiator on the driver's side. Close to the hose clamps is a blue plastic double port. I broke it. I replaced it with a used one from the junkyard. yah I know, but it was $84 new.
It's acting like it has a vacuum leak, or gunky idle control valve? water in the lines? gunky fuel filter? I replaced the fuel filter awhile ago though. I've checked all connections etc. Help! What things would make sense to check next?
I believe the part that you broke is the EVAP TVV (Engine section of online manual EG1-151. Run your replacement through the tests and make sure that it is operating correctly. EG1-149 shows a diagram of the system.
Are you throwing any CEL codes?
Kep
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Often, it's the loose screw between the steering wheel and the driver's seat that needs to be fixed first!
Its an Ignition Ported Vacuum Switch. It uses temperature to adjust timing. Hm. Hm. I better check its vacuum hoses. Maybe try a different one. If its plugged that would explain why its sluggish why it dies etc.
Right?
Check all of your grounds for cleanliness, corrosion, or loosness. We did a headgasket on our 89 camry and left one ground off the back of the intake and it had the same symptoms.
I thought about that too. The motor was replaced about a year ago by a reputable mechanic. Pillar of the community. Anyhow, it seems like all the connections I checked were tight and clean. Though I can't see everywhere. I will check again.
I read up on the ignition ported switch, for timing. They fail if they get too hot, and it got very hot twice. Or more than that, since it was pulled from a wreck without history.
So here's the list- check all connections, replace ported switch, test. No change? Check idle control valve, clean, test. After that, I don't know what to do. Anything else I should add to the list?
The orginal problem was an oil leak. It was an oil pressure sensor or something. It made a mess. I had it replaced. They suggested I replace the radiator soon too. I noticed it already, but a few days later it sprung a massive leak. I replaced the radiator, rad cap, hoses and thermostat. The thermostat didn't let the system burp very well. They usually have a jiggle thing in them (hole with post, it jiggles cutting air bubbles to pass through). Mine didn't have one. oh I also thought it was a good time to replace the heater core too, I noticed a coolant smell inside the car.
Basically, after replacing the coolant system (except waterpump) the car would still overheat. I finally got it "burped"/all air bubbles out. Then it would start, stutter, shudder and die.
While checking the coil I noticed the distributor cap and rotor were bad. The original oil leak seeped in. The air flow blew a little bit of oil right on the distributor seam. There was some coolant drops inside too. The air forced it in gradually. It created alot of buildup/residue. One contact inside was particularly dirty. This created a false sense of bad cylinder.
Simply replacing the distributor cap and rotor solved the performance issue. I had assumed it was fine since it was more or less 3,000 miles old.
as a side note, for those replacing heater cores, use a bit of form a gasket on the metal tube connections. When I replaced the core it began leaking at the rubber gasket. The pipe fittings were not a perfect fit, the rubber o ring was insufficient, and the metal clip had a tendency to slide. So I put some form a gasket (used for old thermostat housings) on the male ends of the pipe connections. I kept the o ring in there, and also used the metal clip. To make sure they stayed together I enclosed the connection area with split heater hose, and used hose clamps. no more leaks.
I made a lot of mistakes. I assumed some parts were good without checking. I wasn't careful and broke a part. When replacing parts I didn't think ahead and assumed they would work problem free. Hopefully I posted enough information for those searching teh internets for a solution to their problem can find something useful here.
I understand that you found oil and coolant in the distributor cap. Hopefully, your explanation is correct. However, after driving a few hundred miles or so pull the cap again, just for grins. If there is oil and coolant again, consider the inner distributor gasket. These fail and let oil in through the shaft. I am leary about the coolant though. If that was in there too (coolant, not water, right?) then you may be getting coolant into your oil somewhere.
Glad you found the cause of your original complaint.
Kep
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Often, it's the loose screw between the steering wheel and the driver's seat that needs to be fixed first!
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Eyeball let me summarize it simply for you:
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