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Old 01-15-2008, 12:50 PM   #1 (permalink)
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A few quickies before i start my mechanical work on rotors.

Hi, and thanks in advance for helping me out. Is there any where i can go to rent a torque wrench, (main store like auto zone, ect) that any of you know, i tried about 5 or 6 places in Jacksonville, and none rent them. Also where would i find the lbs necessary (looked in owners manual didnt see it)

When taking off the caliper, or pushing back the pin (c clamp method) what must i do with the hose?, and for actually replacing a caliper , what must i do differently

And, when taking off the caliper mount, ect, there is a big bolt on the front of the rotor, in the middle, does any one know the size of the bolt, as i need to get a socket that size, but i cant read it, or dont know the size.

Thanks guys and GALS
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Old 01-15-2008, 01:09 PM   #2 (permalink)
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buy one from sears, then return it =)

best loan-a-tool program ever lol
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Old 01-15-2008, 01:24 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Do you have ABS? ... The recommended procedure to use with the ABS type is to loosen the purge nut at the back of the wheel cylinder, so that contaminated fluid does not damage the ABS sensor when you separate the calipers...You will have to get the air out of the brake lines, but it is probably a good idea to replace the brake fluid occasionally.
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Old 01-15-2008, 01:37 PM   #4 (permalink)
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yes, i do have ABS, but i dont know what the "purge valve" looks like or how to do it, some say clamp the line, but i dont know. Is there a DIY?
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Old 01-15-2008, 01:57 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bballsk8er333 View Post
yes, i do have ABS, but i dont know what the "purge valve" looks like or how to do it, some say clamp the line, but i dont know. Is there a DIY?
Not sure about the correct name ... it's the hex nut with an opening in the center ...Usually, you have a piece of hose attached to it running into a bottle. When you crack the nut open a little, and press down on the brake pedal, the existing brake fluid will go through the hose and into the collection bottle. ... It's usually about a 3/8" size wrench, but not sure what the metric version is. I have a manual vacuum pump with a small bottle attached. I put the end of the vacuum pump hose onto the nut, open the nut slightly with a wrench, and operate the vacuum pump until I see clean brake fluid coming out, and then tighten the nut.... Keep the reservoir filled.
Also, suggest not using a C-clamp on the brake hose. This will work, but you could easily damage the hose ... maybe internally, causing blockage or resistance to the flow of the brake fluid. ... If your car is several years old, you might even consider buying new brake hoses ... the ones that connect the wheel cylinders to the steel brake line.

There are some DIY brake links at the top of the forum page... you will have to see if there is anything helpful there.
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Old 01-15-2008, 04:47 PM   #6 (permalink)
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ok, if you dont use the c-clamp to push back the piston, what do (You) do?!

thanks for your other info, ill look for the valve and do what you say
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Old 01-15-2008, 04:54 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bballsk8er333 View Post
ok, if you dont use the c-clamp to push back the piston, what do (You) do?!

thanks for your other info, ill look for the valve and do what you say
Sorry ... misunderstood you. Once you have the 'special fitting nut' on the back of the wheel cylinder slightly loose, and a short length of hose attached to the bleed valve opening, you should see brake fluid start to drip out ... Then it would be okay to apply the C-Clamp to the caliper to open it up.
The contaminated brake fluid will not go back to the master cylinder, it will drain out the bleed valve into a bottle or pan ....
Does this make sense?
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Old 01-15-2008, 06:09 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Hi, and thanks in advance for helping me out. Is there any where i can go to rent a torque wrench, (main store like auto zone, ect) that any of you know, i tried about 5 or 6 places in Jacksonville, and none rent them.
Just buy one. they are dirt cheap at harbor freight and even the cheapos are accurate enough for brake work. I dont use a torque wrench for brake work, i just get it a little tighter than it was when i took it off.

Quote:
When taking off the caliper, or pushing back the pin (c clamp method) what must i do with the hose?,
Use a sturdy plastic bag and some rubber bands or tape and secure it around the end of the hose to prevent all the fluid from running out - (unless you want to just let it run out and flush some of the fluid at the same time)

Quote:
and for actually replacing a caliper , what must i do differently...And, when taking off the caliper mount, ect, there is a big bolt on the front of the rotor, in the middle, does any one know the size of the bolt, as i need to get a socket that size, but i cant read it, or dont know the size
When yiou replace the caliper, after it is bolted back up and hose reattached, you will have to bleed that caliper and probably the entire system. Not a big deal. Use a helper person, even if no one is available, i use a long stick to hold the brake pedal down while i run back, crack the bleeder, tighten it and repeat the pumping. awkward but it works.

The large bolt in the center of the wheel-rotor assembly is the cv drive axle spline bolt. You dont have to do anything to it to do your brakes except leave it alone! it doesnt hold any brake parts on at all. The only time this huge nut gets removed is if and when you change the cv drive axle, that is all the nut holds on.
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Old 01-18-2008, 04:22 PM   #9 (permalink)
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hey man, thanks i changed both rotors, the pads and a caliper.
Where is the "bleeder"? i was driving it aounrd, and my breaks are very weak, i asume because i didnt bleed it... bvut they are gradually getting better...have i done anything wrong :S?'

EDIT::: ok i think i know what it is.... i looked it up on google, but do i need that computer scanner, as it said soome cars need for cycling the brake fluid...

Last edited by bballsk8er333; 01-18-2008 at 04:31 PM.
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Old 01-18-2008, 09:09 PM   #10 (permalink)
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heyy~~
guess what ? I just changed my brake rotors/pads over winter break AND i live in j-ville too =p
yuu didn't have to disconnect the caliper from the hose to change the rotors and/or pads.. (or did you change your calipers ?)
after i changed my rotors and pads, i had no pressure and i had to pump it a few times then it was all good again. mine didn't feel week at all. so i dunno how yours would be weak.
yeah and pepboys lets you rent tools. i used to get it from pepboys but this time i went and they didn't have it =[.
they're 70$ from sears...
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Old 01-18-2008, 10:24 PM   #11 (permalink)
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sweet, but yea i was changing a stuck caliper out, and i ended up buys most the stuff, will have the tools for later, and still saved 100$

if ure from jax u know Kieth Person ...hes a rip off , lol
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Old 01-18-2008, 10:26 PM   #12 (permalink)
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keith peirson ? that big one in op ??
man i thought they were good lol
i guess i better stop going there
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Old 01-20-2008, 02:11 AM   #13 (permalink)
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well if 189$ for a EGR valve snesor is good, lol...

cost me 39$ and 2 mins with my highly complicated philips screwdriver to fix :P
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