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3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001 Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 01-16-2008, 12:30 AM   #1 (permalink)
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4th Generation is it the brakes?

i got a 97 camry le and i think it's having problem braking.... when i start breaking at above 40 my car stars to shake..... the harder i press on the brake, the harder it shakes... i know it's the brakes but i was wondering specifically what part of the brake is at fault. is it the rotors or the brake pad... is it the front causing the problem or the back causing the problem? thanks in advance for the replies.^__^
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Old 01-16-2008, 01:04 AM   #2 (permalink)
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it's the front rotors.

rear rotors, don't get anywhere near as hot as front rotors under heavy braking. it is impossible for the pads or calipers to cause the problem.

vibration under braking is a common problem on ALL cars.

either get new front rotors, or get your current ones machined.

cheers.
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Old 01-16-2008, 01:13 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I think the same.Is it pulling to the right or left at all? When was the last time you had them serviced?
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Brake lights aren't broken, I just don't brake.
--Can honestly go to a parts counter and ask for brake shoes for the front brakes.
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Old 01-16-2008, 01:17 AM   #4 (permalink)
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like a while back... i'm planning to get some new rotors and brake pads... anyone have some suggestions?
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Old 01-16-2008, 01:22 AM   #5 (permalink)
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New rotors and pads will fix the vibration issue.
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Old 01-16-2008, 01:25 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Are you going to attempt them yourself? I ask because it's actually pretty easy being that it is the front brakes. Well, first take off the front tires and inspect the rotors and pads. If they aren't smoot and have ridges and divets around the rotors..yes definitely new rotors. I take it you aren't going to be upgrading in terms of performance? Well if so the replacement rotors from autozone or equivalent should be cheap (about 15-30 bucks a piece). And look in their weekly ad for sets of their mid to best grade pads (one with lifetime guarantees, raybestos is good). I suggest getting a new set of rotors because you'll be able to drive on them while you get the current ones machine (if they are still salavageable). First thing is first, inspect them.
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Brake lights aren't broken, I just don't brake.
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Old 01-16-2008, 01:30 AM   #7 (permalink)
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i mean, i'm been planning to get new rotors because i rotated them right after i got it from my parents(a while back). i know the rotors are getting worn because i've been smashing on it for a while too...
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Old 01-16-2008, 01:54 AM   #8 (permalink)
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You rotated the rotors as in swapping the left and right side rotor?
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Old 01-16-2008, 02:30 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by touringcamry View Post
You rotated the rotors as in swapping the left and right side rotor?
x2

what do you mean 'you've been roating the rotors???'
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Old 01-16-2008, 05:35 AM   #10 (permalink)
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The rotors heat up to a very very high temperature and needless to say, this is especially true if you use them hard. Stock rotors were not designed to withstand such extreme temperatures nor are they designed for such temperature fluctuations. So if you seriously use ur brakes THAT hard (..which i doubt).... you might not want OEM replacement.

you can buy a set of rotors yourself and a set of 4 pads and do the swap yourself. it took me less than 15 minutes per side (not including taking wheels off, jacking car up, getting tools out, cleaning up, etc) make sure you get a set of pads that will work well with the rotors you bought because if you don't, the rotors will warp again really fast.

im running on brembo performance slotted and brembo performance pads on my gen4

good luck bro.

Last edited by dorifuto.boi; 01-16-2008 at 03:51 PM.
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Old 01-16-2008, 08:09 AM   #11 (permalink)
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i think you should also check your caliper. on my 98 my rotor were warpped i when we check i had a frozen caliper. so check everything be4 you put new brakes on cuz it will be just a waste of money
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Old 01-27-2008, 11:25 PM   #12 (permalink)
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thanks guys!!! very appreciated it^__^ but how do i check if i have a frozen caliper?
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Old 01-28-2008, 12:15 PM   #13 (permalink)
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The seized caliper will show signs of more advanced pad wear.
It could be the piston, the caliper itself or both.

Mostly it is the caliper slide pins and contact surfaces that are so dirty or corroded that causes seizing.
Braking is effective, but your brake is dragging.

Then there is the possibility that the brake piston is jammed as well and does not fully retract but that would feel like the brake is not working as it should(ineffective braking).

Take the wheel off. Use large screw driver or prybar, try and push the caliper part that fits over the outer pad (like t fingers) and see if you can wiggle some free play into that and then slide the caliper back and forth.
Take the brake caliper bolts off lift off caliper and hang from spring. And see if you can slide the caliper pins back and forth.

Lastly, check your brake fluid level and push the piston back into caliper with a big C-clamp and see if that is smooth.
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