Where is the INTEGRATION RELAY - 1997 Camry?

[jasguild]

I have a 1997 Camry LE. I have been having intermittent problems with my driver window, alarm and power locks.

I read some where it can be my integration relay. I know its around the fuses on the in side on the driverside.

Most of the fuses are identified on the diagram but there are some others square high amp ones that are not on the diagram. I also saw a larger black fuse like item.

Is the Integration relay this black fuse like item or is it one of those high amp fuses?

Thanks

[dc_98_cam]

If your car was a Gen 3 version, it might be best to examine the driver door wire loom near the hinges... broken wires in the door hinge area due to accumulated usage. However, with a 97 Gen 4 ... not completely sure. ... Power window and door lock problems are sometimes related... May or may not be in the door hinge area.
There is a connector block inside the driver door which contains connections to both. Sometimes rain or spilled liquids can cause electrical problems.

The best troubleshooting procedure is to remove the door panel, get a voltmeter, and see which points have voltage, which points respond to switch functions, and also look for any broken or bare wires. ... You can verify that the window motors are working, even if the window switch signals are not getting through.

One item in your post which does not relate is the alarm ... could this be a separate problem? What is the alarm doing? Also, don't recall how the integration relay figures in. ...
If you look at the wiring diagram for the Gen 3 in the online repair manual ... you might find some useful information.
If you need to download the repair manual sections, there was a link recently in the Gen 5 forum... at the top of the page.

It would help if you could provide a little more detail... what's actually not working.... What is working...

[Eye8Pussies]

the actual integration relay is under the dash on the driver's side, and it's basically a black plastic box about the size of your hand

[jasguild]

Originally Posted by dc_98_cam

It would help if you could provide a little more detail... what's actually not working.... What is working...

Here are the probems I am having

1) Driver side window - if I have to lower it all the way down, it does not go back up all at once. It will go up 1/4 of the way and stop. Then in 10 minutes it will go up another 1/4 of the way and so on. All other windows work flawlessly from the master switch and individual switches. Its almost like it stops receiving power.

2)POwer locks- if i continuously open and close the doors using the power lock on the master switch, after about the third or forth time, they just make a clicking sound but dont actually open or close the locks. Its almost like it stops receiving power. Again like the window issue, after a few minutes, the problem goes away, unless I repeat the open/close procedure.

3) Arming my alarm does not always lock the doors. Also my alarm no longer makes the horn chirp when armed or disarmed.

I had the opportunity to swap the master switch with another one that works and the problem persisted. As such I have eliminated the master switch as the possible culprit.

thanks

jasguild

[jasguild]

Originally Posted by Eye8Pussies

the actual integration relay is under the dash on the driver's side, and it's basically a black plastic box about the size of your hand

I am assuming I have to take of the panels at the bottom to access this? I cant imagine it being accessible from the fuse box if it is something the size of my hand

thansk

jasguild

[Eye8Pussies]

yup, just take the black bottom piece off the bottom of the steering column and then stick your head under there

[jasguild]

do you agree that my symptoms sound like a faulty integration relay?

jasguild

[dc_98_cam]

Originally Posted by jasguild

Here are the probems I am having

1) Driver side window - if I have to lower it all the way down, it does not go back up all at once. It will go up 1/4 of the way and stop. Then in 10 minutes it will go up another 1/4 of the way and so on. All other windows work flawlessly from the master switch and individual switches. Its almost like it stops receiving power.

2)POwer locks- if i continuously open and close the doors using the power lock on the master switch, after about the third or forth time, they just make a clicking sound but dont actually open or close the locks. Its almost like it stops receiving power. Again like the window issue, after a few minutes, the problem goes away, unless I repeat the open/close procedure.

3) Arming my alarm does not always lock the doors. Also my alarm no longer makes the horn chirp when armed or disarmed.

I had the opportunity to swap the master switch with another one that works and the problem persisted. As such I have eliminated the master switch as the possible culprit.

thanks

jasguild

Try cleaning the door courtesy switch ...driver side and pass side. This switch will (might) deactivate the integration relay ... causing motor window current to stop flowing.... There was a recent DIY posted on how to do this ... try search function. ... If not the courtesy switch, then the window problem might be caused by some sort of mechanical resistance in the window guide channel... Could be something sticky that was spilled down into the window mechanism. It is puzzling as to why the window would go down, but not up, without difficulty.... Is the motor overheating, and has to cool down for a minute?... Don't know for sure...Driver door motor is probably the one with the most accumulated usage.... There is a window motor test procedure ... described in the diagnostic section of the repair manual ...
... Power Door Locks ... also subject to the door courtesy switch function.
... The Wireless Door Lock feature, as activated by the remote keypad, is also controlled in a way by the integration relay, which in turn, has a disarm feature that is controlled by the door channel courtesy switches.
It would probably be a good idea to check all of the door channel areas to make sure that nothing is obstructing the courtesy switches from operating... Maybe spray a little electrical contact cleaner on each switch to clean/lubricate.
The door courtesy switches seem to be a frequent source of difficulty ... frequent usage, humidity, dirt, liquid spillage... Probably a good idea to disassemble and clean the driver door switch ... at least. You could try replacing the integration relay with one from a salvage yard, but that might not necessarily fix the problems which you describe....Guessing that the ultimate problem has to do with the door courtesy switches.

[ASG14]

Does not sound like the integration relay. All sound like seperate issues. The alarm is a seperate unit in itself. I actually blew mine on my '96 Camry.

But to answer your question, it is in the drivers side of the dash, on the fuse block. Back side of it. They are a few different colors, some being black, blue, or white, and is rectangle in shape. It is NOT at all easy to get out on the Gen 4, I'll tell you that right now.

[jasguild]

I have been doing the lock/unlock exercise from the master switch. After three or four attempts none of the locks work. It would seem to me that it is very unlikley that all the courtesy switches would be failing all at once.

I am convinced the problem has to do with something in the driver door and it has to do with the availability of power.

However it it not the master switch casue I tested a functional switch and it did the same thing.

jasguild

[ASG14]

May be broken wires in the door. That is OFTEN a cause.

If your anywhere near the Ft. Lauderdale area, I'm throwing a Toyota meet on the 9th (It's in the Meet section on forum), and we can take a look at it there if it is not fixed yet.

[Hajoca]

The window will need a new motor. Just did my friend's 99 LE. the brushes have worn out... that window is the most used one.

[jasguild]

Originally Posted by ASG14

May be broken wires in the door. That is OFTEN a cause.

If your anywhere near the Ft. Lauderdale area, I'm throwing a Toyota meet on the 9th (It's in the Meet section on forum), and we can take a look at it there if it is not fixed yet.

unfortunately I am up in Tampa.

I will take apart the door this weekend to look for signs of broken wire and to see if the motor is over hreating.

Would broken wire have intermittent symptoms? My lay person idea of a broken wire tells me the instrument would not work at all.

thanks agian

jasguild

[jasguild]

Originally Posted by Hajoca

The window will need a new motor. Just did my friend's 99 LE. the brushes have worn out... that window is the most used one.

You dont think its also strange that the power locks also behave as if they lose power or lack power too??

jasguild

[dc_98_cam]

Originally Posted by jasguild

unfortunately I am up in Tampa.

I will take apart the door this weekend to look for signs of broken wire and to see if the motor is over hreating.

Would broken wire have intermittent symptoms? My lay person idea of a broken wire tells me the instrument would not work at all.

thanks agian

jasguild

Hajoca might be right about the window motor ... worn carbon brushes would weaken the motor .... very likely this is it.

...For the door lock problem, there is a connector labeled IE1, located in the lower front part of the driver door ... You will have to remove the door panel to get to it. Unplug IE1, spray it with electrical contact cleaner, inspect for any contaminants, and put it back together.
This IE1 connector has wires that have an input to the wireless door lock ECU ... If the wires allowing the signal to get through are not making good electrical contact, then the door lock will not work properly... Actually, there is a program built into the wireless door lock ECU that, when a door lock change signal is not received from the door unlock confirmation switch, pulses the door lock motor 3 times and then deactivates it for a while ... Which is similar to what you are doing manually.
... A drawing of the IE1 connector is located on p. 41 of the wiring diagram... The relevant circuit diagram is on p. 172 .... see unlock detection switch ... front driver door.
When you have the IE1 connector unplugged, you could test the door unlock confirmation switch for continuity, as you lock/unlock the door manually.
The wiring diagram shows that the two relevant wires are:
light blue with a red stripe
white with a black stripe
The unlock confirmation switch is just an open/close switch .. You will either have continuity or open circuit when door is locked or unlocked ... not sure which is which, but you should see an obvious change in the resistance measured between the two wires.

... Generally, if there is an electrical problem, the most likely thing to happen is a dirty connection... oxide buildup ... corrosion... something sticky spilled on it ... Get a spray can of electrical contact cleaner from your local electronics store ... Use it anytime you have electrical plugs, terminals, or contacts. It removes any grease and loose dirt ... just a good general idea.

... Also a good idea to inspect the door hinge area for any possible broken wires while you have access.