New to the Camry

[Typrus]

95. 2.2L 5-speed. I think its a DX, based on the simple "camry" on the back, no other markings.

So some goodies for ya.

I want to install a bypass oil filtration system. I've been looking at the Amsoil BMK-11 single-element kit. As for installation location, I was looking at just under the battery tray, in between the support ribs. There is room width-wise, but depth COULD be an issue. Anyone done this before? If so, is this a good location or do I need seek elsewhere?

As for oil itself.
I had had a 1984 Tercel 4wd wagon. 212k or so on her before I fell asleep. She still fires up and runs strong, but the half-ripped-off control arm mount on the drivers side (went "off-roading" shall we say) keeps it from going anywhere.
How does this pertain to oil?
It has flat-tappet rocker-lifter's. SOHC. Never rebuilt or modded internally. Factory redline 6k.
I ran Schaeffer's Supreme 7000 in it, 15W-40 viscosity. It had 170 or so PSI on all 4 cylinders (fresh remans have 200-220PSI, lower limit 120PSI on an old one) and tilled happily all day long. It was shifted right around 5k usually, but I was never afraid of 6k+. The highest I got it intentionally was 6.5K from time to time, but at least 5x a missed shift brought it as high as 7750. Valve float started between 6k and 6.5k.
And it still had no problems.

Why is this important? I found that the 5SFE has 1 cam driven by the belt, the other driven off a gear from the 1st. I've read this gear causes some pretty hardcore wear on the oil. Schaeffer's is a high-moly oil (amongst other positive attributes) and doesn't seem to mind harsh shearing pressures.
Would it be ideal to run in the 5SFE? You can get it in 10W-30 up to 20W-50 last I checked.

As for now, I have Valvoline Full-Synthetic MaxxLife 10W-30 in it. Should I drop in a can of BG MOA?


Would it be wise to run an oil cooler on this engine? The FSM I downloaded somewhere or another (some Ninja site I think?) states that some models came with a coolant-to-oil cooler. Better idea than a air-to-oil cooler with thermostatic bypass?


Exhaust... I want to upgrade, but ricer mosquito-cans make me sick. Thoughts on getting the most clean but aggressive sound possible while minimizing the drone?
I found a Bosal 4-2-1 header for the 92-94. Will it fit the 95 or is there a major change? Is it even worth trying?

Intakes... I've seen lots of the taking out of the factory air-box and shoving on a cone. Worthwhile at all? Seems like you'd be grabbing warm air... Be safer in rain and snow than a true cold-air though I suppose.
The factory tube and swirl-box... First off, what is the function of that box in the intake tube? I've seen them pre-filter element where they "swirl" out the heavier objects, but never post filter element... Is there a purpose? Can it be removed and a smoother intake tube installed? Or is there a good reason nobody has an aftermarket setup?


Moving inside......
How do I remove the trim to remove the factory radio? I want to put in my Pioneer DEH-4600MP from my Tercel.
It will work with the factory speakers, yes? It worked with my cheese-ball 4" front and 5.25" rear Tercel speakers....
As for replacement speakers. Whats up with Crutchfield specifying a 6x9 for the rear and 6.5" for the front but not actually offering them? In the rear I could see how a larger magnet might interfere, but a little trimming of the metal supports will alleviate that, yes? As for the front speakers, is it a question of the magnet hitting the window track? Would low-profile speakers work better?

Would el-cheapo Checker's speakers be an improvement over stock? I can't afford the Infinity Kappa's I want right now, but I want an upgrade.

Running aftermarket thicker speaker wire..... Hard to do? You'd be surprised just how clean a headunit's internal amp can be if you upgrade the wiring. The factory angel-hair pasta wires in my Terc (18 or 20 guage I believe) could barely support the factory power. Driving 60Watt's through that wire sounded.... Dismal at best. So I hooked up some premium 14-guage speaker wire and the sound cleaned up MASSIVELY. Remember what a weak link your wiring can be.

My headliner is coming off..... Solutions?


Now to appearance!
The factory steelie 14's look alright right now (took the hubcaps off.. like the look better.. an I hate cracking them more every time I pull them) but I was thinking about Eibach springs for the 1.2"/1.0" lowering and thought some alloy 16's would look sweet. I don't like the 40-series rubber-band-over-rim look.
Will a 205/55R16 fit? Will it fill the fender-well appropriately? Can I actually turn and hit a bump?
Tint is obvious.

Any body kits that are recommended that look smart, not so much showy and in-your-face?


Suspension!!
The springs go with that. I have to drive in snow (Colorado). Will 1.2" in front cause too much plowing? How's the ride quality of the Eibach's? I saw some posts about coil-overs killing your kidneys, thus me avoiding them.
Struts? Whats recommended? KYB? Bilstein? Tokico?
Bushings... Thoughts?
Swaybars... Should they be beefed at all? I didn't even notice if there was a rear one or not....


DRIVETRAIN!
Could a Celica or Altezza All-Trac setup be made to fit? I can't find whether there was a MKIII All-Trac or not. I know there was MKII...
Any easy rear-suspension drop-in's? If for nothing else, to upgrade to discs?
How much power will my 5-speed handle?



I know its a ton of questions. Please answer what you can! Thanks much!

[Venom_5]

exhaust:

Bosal headers will work on the '95 .... will make your exhaust raspy though, so i would recommend keeping your cat (maybe get a high-flow), getting a new resonator (Aeroturbine is my fav) and get a Magnaflow muffler (my personal choice, the Apexi N1 style is too loud and raspy, and Magnaflow makes 6x8 ovals, so they dont look like the honda fartcans)

intake:

the stock intake isnt very restrictive, but it does do a lot to dampen and reduce the noise, so an aftermarket SRI would give you A LITTLE more throttle response, but mostly its good for an INCREDIBLE sound -- check out my thread about the Weapon-R Dragon SRI

Suspension:

Eibach doesnt provide enough drop for most of us, but it does give good handling .... H&R Sport Springs would be a better drop (not so much that you get stuck in the snow), but the critical part to suspension is the Struts ... i would get Tokico HP struts, because they are stiffer than Factory, stiffer than KYB GR-2s, and reasonably priced .... your other option is to get coilovers, but they will run you at least $900 and that would allow you to raise it up in the winter, and slam it in the summer'

i would also recommend the TRD Rear Sway bar that you can pick up for $150 shipped ... set it on track setting and it will decrease a TON of body roll

braking:

you can get rear discs .... those of us with ABS have that from the factory - you can also swap in the V6 discs all around for rotors that are about 1/2" larger

Drivetrain:

forget about all-trac, rwd, 4wd, etc. unless you have $10,000 to spend on that part of the project alone .... literally .... you can swap in an E153 5spd tranny, and it will handle as much power as youre going to make out of the little 5S-FE (4cyl engine)

speaking of power - if you are going to stay N/A, look forward to making under 180whp ... if you are going to go FI (turbocharged), then look forward to spending upwards of $3000 on a custom turbo setup to make between 225 and 300whp



i didnt answer everything, but im sure the rest of the guys will -- any questions, just ask

[Typrus]

Yes, I'm responding fast.. lol.. I have been to 2 other forums and 2 days later no response, so I was getting antsy... THANK YOU!!!

What about a BEAMS?

Whats involved in the rear-disc swap-out? I just changed one of the wheel bearings, so I have a rough idea of what it looks like in there.

My Tercel body-rolled a little less than this Amry does. I blame that on the 17mm rear and 21mm front sways though. And it only weighed ballpark 2300lbs. But the 175/70R13's didn't exactly grab... And my 205/50R15's didn't last long...

What about ADDCo? Any good?

Someone makes an SRI?

[bigbird]

im not sure what "BEAMS" is.

this may help a little with the rear disc conversion. also search around, there tons of info on it.
Big Brake Kit Upgrade or Rear Drum Conversion to Disc Brakes? HmMm...

u can almost eliminate body roll by getting a good spring strut combo and of course the TRD or Whiteline rear sway bar. it does some amazing things for handling with these cars.

as for SRI, there are a couple one avalible, weapon R, AEM, and then theres the cheap ebay ones. they all do the same thing(not much) but sound AWESOME. epsecially with a manual...mmmmm.

body kits...here are a few

http://www.erebunicorp.com/ge/toycamry92.htm
http://www.octanemotorsports.com/Toy...782/index.html
http://www.andysautosport.com/toyota...ior/body_kits/

and someone else will say it. use the search function. everythign uve asked have been discussed in depth, much more then we can post in this thread.

[Typrus]

At very least a search on oil and a search on deck and head unit didn't seem to bring much up.

BEAMS as is 3SGE BEAMS. Breakthrough Engine And Management Systems.

[toyomoho]

The center cluster finish panel around the side and bottom of the radio pulls out. Gently start at the sides at the bottom; the panel has small plastic notches to grab the dashboard.

The radio is mounted on a removable frame that is bolted the car by a couple of bolts on each side.

[bigbird]

oh ok, the 3sge. no idea on that

an oil cooler isnt really necissary unless ur gonna be using the car for racing of some sort. id advise sticking with the full synthetic if thats what the car has been using but the MOA couldnt hurt.