3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
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Got a Question for ya all, i am about to install a new set of subs in my Camry, and i am taking a major step up in the Amp to a DPX11500, that a 1500 watt monster to push DUAL PORTED 12" SUB ENCLOSURE - 4ohm just mine are 2 ohm subs and a 400W MTX 4004 to power all 4 speaker a set of SRS1686 up front and a set of SRR6986 in the rear, a SPC5055 farad hybrid cap i am wondering if the stock 90 amp will handle it or if i need to put a 100/130 amp one in?
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1997 Toyota Camry XLE V6- 308500 and counting
if you can upgrade you alt do it. it'll be less work on the overall charging system
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Originally Posted by Tony the Tiger
The Camry is a car that I can rip out someone's pride, stab it, beat it, and completely bash their egos, and it's so ridiculous that the person comes back with a hysterical laugh... ROFL They got trainlengthed by a Camry that in their mind, was a 18 sec car.
i ran two 12'' 600 RMS Alpine Type R subs with two 650 RMS Alpine amps + 3.0 Farad cap on a stock alternator and mine still works *knock on wood* lights did dim a bit tho
i also bought an optima battery
How big is your cap? You probably need at least a 5 farad capacitor, and make sure that you run both amps through it via a distro-block and make sure everything is well grounded. Other than that, your alternator should be fine. I have a Profile 2000W amp pushing my subs through a 5-farad cap and i actually noticed i got more headlight dim with the stock system than now with the upgraded system.
you best bet is to upgrade your ground wires on the battery it will usally take care of the dimming issue in my wife 00 camry i have installed a mtx thunder 5 channel channels 1-4 powering the front and rear speakers at 50 watts rms and 400 watts rms to the ten inch sub. i used 4 gauge all the way back with no cap and i also upgraded the ground wires under the hood (3 total) to 1 0 gauge ground at the battery and 2 4 gauge wires one is on the passanger side of the car by the timming belt cover and the other is down by the transmission give it a shot.
"you only have as much power as you have ground to return it"
i agree with kraylon. i am currently running a system about 1000w true power. i have 2 runs of 4ga coming from my battery to my trunk, each with separate grounds in trunk. i replaced the stock engine ground and body ground with 2 runs of 4ga wires. my amps are grounded to the metal behind the rear seats. (your able to access both sides for a secure connection) stock 90 amp alt. and a Motomaster eliminator battery running it all. i get absolutely no dimming. ive actually been trying to make my car dim and have not been able to see the smallest amount of dim.
dimming is a result of either a weak battery or weak grounds. i would not waste my money on a cap.
just remember, power is like a water hose, energy in = energy out, i learned that the hard way and almost fried my first 200w amp using 4ga in, 16ga out
imo do a good job on the install. aka 4ga runs and good solid grounds. if you get dimming check your battery or replace stock engine/body grounds. test again and dimming should be gone.
If you are getting subs, consider eliminating the rear speakers completely and get a good component set up front. The total MSRP for the speakers you are looking at is about $400. You could probably get some Focal K2P, Diamond Audio D6 or Hex, Arc Audio 6000, or CDT CL62. Most of these are around $280-350ish.
Make sure you have listened to the speakers before you buy. Reviews don't do much because everyone has different tastes in what they like. Some tweeters are really bright, especially metal types. Some people like this sound and other find it irritating. Silk tweets are smoother and some people like this sound but others find it lacking.
the speakers i already bought got them for 1/2 that the subs i am adding the sub amp is a 1500 true watt
true watts are measure in RMS.. most low end company over rate their amps, and slap the peak wattages on the cover.. you cant expect an lower end amp to perform like the high end amps. maybe half or a bit less of what the peak watts is the true RMS rating of the amp. also voltages coming from the charging system comes into play. an amp may say 2000 watts RMS but if you dont have enough voltages you maybe getting half it not less. if your welling to pay the extra money for a higher end brand then most likely you'll get more power from the amp then what it says. thus it not cheap. but just my opinion.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony the Tiger
The Camry is a car that I can rip out someone's pride, stab it, beat it, and completely bash their egos, and it's so ridiculous that the person comes back with a hysterical laugh... ROFL They got trainlengthed by a Camry that in their mind, was a 18 sec car.
I'm running 2 amps, a 4 channel infinity amp pushing 110watts rms to each speaker and a cadence mono amp pushing about 1000wrms to my TC-9 hybrid and my indiglos dim a little.
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