How Do You Replace Oil Pump Seal / O-ring?

[milano maroon]

I have an earlier thread going where I asked about the source of an oil leak down near the crankshaft pulley. The responses to that one seem to indicate that the oil pump seal and / or the o-ring are the culprits. So can anyone tell me how to replace those?

I assume I follow all of the steps to replacing the timing belt but what else? Do I have to remove and reinstall the oil pump or just the pump pulley? Is it hard to get off? Any tips to get the pump pulley nut off?

Anyhelp would be greatly appreciated.

Jeff

[fdnymechanic]

remove the timing belt as you described. if you look at the side of the block the oil pump housing has approx 5-7 bolts attaching it to the block.i don't think you have to take the oil pump drive gear off of the pump to remove it unless there is a bolt under the gear that holds the housing,i haven't done one in quite a while.after you remove all the bolts carefully remove the housing by prying it off the block. take note that there are line up pins on the block which will also hold the housing to block.don't forget that it is aluminum, don't destroy it.i don't think the o-ring is avail aftermarket so get it from the dealer before you start the job.don't forget to change the rotating shaft seal too while your at it .good luck

[fdnymechanic]

sorry i forgot about the gear.use the old timing belt, wrap it around the gear and use a large pair of channellocks to hold the gear while you loosen the nut.don;t damage the gear or you will wipe out the timing belt

[Typrus]

I have an old trick we've used on V-8's and on my old Tercel's engine, but need confirmation here for its validity on a 5SFE.
Attach your nut to a stout socket and wrench. Preferrably a long wrench. If not, insert a section of pipe over it, long enough to hit the ground. Your goal is to have the end of the wrench about an inch above the ground then disable the ignition system so you can bump the starter to use the whole engine as an impact wrench of sorts.
Once again I re-iterate- wait for someone with more 5SFE experience to confirm it will work here. I don't know about clearances, rotation, etc. I don't think Yoda made any reverse-rotation engines, but you never know.



BTW... Because I haven't worked on the 5SFE yet, but intend to re-gasket it sometime this summer... What o-ring are ya'll talking about? All I remember was a seal on the pump front and a gasket around the housing?

(EDIT) Just looked at the FSM.... The Timing belt drives the oil pump, not the crank itself?? There is a balance shaft?? Yikes... Taint so simple an engine. More things to keep track of.

[mvftw]

This is good...is there a write up with pictures on replacing all the seals??? I know about the timing belt write-ups which are good...

[TRCar54]

I used the starter bump method over the weekend on a 5SFE. It couldn't have been easier. I tried all sorts of tools including two impact wrenches .......still no go.

I used a long impact socket on a 1/2" breaker bar. I added a pipe to the bar and let the end of the pipe lie on the ground at about the 5 o'clock position as viewed from the left side of the car.

I didn't even disable the ignition...just clicked the starter. I walked around to the left side of the car and expected to see the socket had fallen off the bolt but it wasn't. I reached in and the bolt was finger tight..BEAUTIFUL!! Thanks for the tip guys.

I might make a simple tool out of a 2 to 3 inch piece of black pipe to reinstall the pulley. I figure it will resemble the hub tool used on 4 wheel drive hubs to remove the large nut that is recessed into the hub. I'll cut out two sections that will allow the pipe to recess into the spokes and hold the pulley. On the other end of the pipe I'll cut a slot that will allow me to wedge a pry bar and still allow the socket to reach through to the bolt. I hope to do most of the cut work with a 3" pneumatic cutoff wheel.

Thanks again,
Jay in MA

Originally Posted by Typrus

I have an old trick we've used on V-8's and on my old Tercel's engine, but need confirmation here for its validity on a 5SFE.
Attach your nut to a stout socket and wrench. Preferrably a long wrench. If not, insert a section of pipe over it, long enough to hit the ground. Your goal is to have the end of the wrench about an inch above the ground then disable the ignition system so you can bump the starter to use the whole engine as an impact wrench of sorts.
Once again I re-iterate- wait for someone with more 5SFE experience to confirm it will work here. I don't know about clearances, rotation, etc. I don't think Yoda made any reverse-rotation engines, but you never know.



BTW... Because I haven't worked on the 5SFE yet, but intend to re-gasket it sometime this summer... What o-ring are ya'll talking about? All I remember was a seal on the pump front and a gasket around the housing?

(EDIT) Just looked at the FSM.... The Timing belt drives the oil pump, not the crank itself?? There is a balance shaft?? Yikes... Taint so simple an engine. More things to keep track of.

[xm camry]

My mechanic changed that seal when he changed the water pump and timing belt, didnt see how he took it out but i saw him hammer it in with a socket...

[milano maroon]

Look here for a post showing pictures, etc. of the o-ring and seal replacement. I also used the starter method to loosen the crankshaft bolt and it worked very well.

Followup on Oil Pump O-ring and Seal Replacement

Jeff