Clutch, Seals, etc

[Typrus]

So...
Had the car for maybe 4-5000 miles and a hair under 2 months.
Clutch is slipping like mad.
He had said he replaced the clutch, now he says he didn't and isn't sure he did the timing belt.
His story is that he dropped in a Jap engine with 30-40k miles at 130k. It has 137k or so now. He claims to have done the clutch and t-belt at this time. Well, I should say he claimed.

So now I am faced with this- is it really a 30-40k engine? Or is it the original? What did he really do to it? Or not do?

So... I put together a price list for a clutch, flywheel, water pump, t-belt and component kit, complete gasket set, upper and lower hose, new cap, new rotor, new coil, and new wires, t-stat, head bolt set (assuming torque-to-yield?)
And from Partsamerica.com, we're running $835.
Ouch. Considering I bought the car for $3k.

Its getting 25mpg and no better (not much worse either fortunatly) and mostly runs smooth.

BUT.. I have an oil leak near the crank pulley, somewhere on the pan gasket, and from what appears to be the timing cover. So new gaskets are likely a necessity. I BELIEVE a Conversion Kit (lower gasket set) has the oil pump o-ring, along with everything else.

Anyone have recommendations?
Write-ups for pulling the engine maybe? I've heard there is a t-belt writeup somewhere, I'll go searching for that.


I'm loving this thing. Its got SOOO much more power than I am used to (giveme a break 3MZ guys, I came from a 3A-C! 62HP baby!) and is a fun drive. Better economy would be nice (like the reported low 30's from other folks)
I like power, but if I need to feel the rush I can drive my dad's 1400ft/lb torque 7.3L Powerstroke. YEEEE-HAW!!! lol.

Say I have a budget of $1000 (which I don't yet... lol)
What should I do? What would be prudent?

[Kep]

If this guy is a friend that you want to keep as a friend don't talk to him about the car anymore because it sounds like he's been lying to you. If not, try to determine where he bought the engine and ask them to verify. Receipts are also interesting if he'll dig them up for you. It's hard to see those oil leaks after only 7,000 miles. Maybe there is some warranty left.

Clutch - have it rebuilt. Flywheel - why? Water pump, t-belt and component kit, complete gasket set - When you do the t-belt probably a good idea if he didn't' replace them (open up the cover and look to see what they look like before you buy these. If they are 7,000 mile items they should look very clean and may have markings still on the rubber.) Upper and lower hose - if they're soft, otherwise no. New cap, new rotor, new coil, and new wires - only if in poor condition. T-stat - only if running hot. Head bolt set (assuming torque-to-yield?) - I can't say.

If you have an oil leak from the t-belt case then you may be looking at the main seals, cam seals, oil pump seals. The oil leak will shorten the life of the t-belt.

I tend to recommend cleaning the throttle body, EGR system, IAC valve and PCV valve. I understand O2 sensors can help mileage considerably if they are starting to go bad. I need to figure out a way to check these myself!

Kep

[Typrus]

I have next to no connection with the guy. Just hung onto his number.

How do I get the upper timing cover off or pulled back?

My thought is if I have to pull the engine to do the clutch, I might as well get the other stuff, right?

I'm looking at the possibility of the flywheel having tons of hotspots considering how long it slipped away for. If so, I don't know of anyone local who likes to turn hot-spot rotors or flywheels.

Rebuild? Wah?
New matched clutch set to replace the clutch disc and pressure plate. I doubt the pressure plate is of much use considering how quick this went out. Likely lost its clamping force.

He has "no" receipts. He flips auction cars it seems.
Thank God it seems mine is straight aside from my current issues.

When I pry the t-cover off, I'll look for weeps from the pump and to see if it looks "fresh".

I figure it'd be smart to do the front seals and gaskets when the engine is out. Easier to do, right?

The cap, rotor, wires, coil... Factory. Yeah, factory. lol.

T-stat? If its out, why not?

It's been BG44k treated and Sea-Foam in the intake treated. No Berrymans into the throttle body yet.

PCV valve was replaced last week.

I'll carb-spray the O2 sensors before I replace them if I need to.

I know with single-wire ones you can hook them up and take a voltage reading somewhere or another and should see a square-wave voltage if I remember right. I might be wrong though.

[Hajoca]

Do not carb spray the O2 sensors yet, heat them up with torch and take reading is what you mean right??
The heat will burn off most of the varnish and unburnt fuel, leaving carbon behind. Then when it is cool enough to handle, then Carb cleaner.

Timing belt cover is held on with several small bolts (10mm).

Is there a Timing belt replaced sticker with kms and date filled out on the timing belt cover?
As far as the flywheel goes, used one from a transmission rebuilder should be fine.

[Typrus]

Usually you can do the O2 test on-car.

Seriously? Take a torch to them? Don't you run the risk of damaging the platinum?

[Typrus]

So the timing belt has no lettering visible, and is shiny on the back corresponding to what looks like cam gear teeth. Sweet.

And there was oil on the bottom rearward bolt of the upper cover.