3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
Per Mike Gerber, (96 Camry Won't Start I confirmed good spark, power to the fuel pump (fuses and relays OK) and fuel pump hum when trying to start. Agree a clogged fuel filter is likely a long shot.
Looking for next step troubleshooting from those who know.
Might have something to do with the neutral safety switch ...Maybe you can move the shift selector back and forth a few times ... I would want to be careful about starting the engine with the transmission in reverse or drive ... if that is possible.
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98 Camry LE, 2.2L, automatic
50k miles, drop in K&N A/F recent timing belt, water pump
It's off the ramps and in the garage now. Tried to start in Park after moving through the gear selector with the same result. Not sure how to address the cam angle / crank angle sensors recommendation but will hit the shop manual tonight.
A simple test to see if your fuel filter is not allowing fuel to flow to the injectors/engine, would be to remove the large rubber duct leading to the throttle body. Open the throttle valve all the way (you can do it yourself or have someone hold the gas pedal to the floor) and spray some O2 safe carb cleaner in to the throttle body. Put in a couple of good sprays. Now button everything back up and try to start the engine. If the engine now sputters where you got nothing before, you have determined that fuel was not previouly flowing to the injectors and in to the cylinders. This would most likely be caused by a clogged fuel filter. I don't expect your car to start this way; just sputter a bit like it's almost going to start.
Put a fuel pressure gauge on the rail. And make sure you didnt knock any connections loose. All you need is fuel air and spark for fire. You have air and spark, there musnt be any fuel. Just get a gauge from autozone and make sure theres any pressure, also check the fuel pressure regulator to make sure its not just bypassing all the fuel.
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I lost my Camry in a parking lot once, Now it will never happen again
It's worth a try. First, I would check all fuses that have anything to do with the EFI system in your car. There are numerous fuses that have something to do with the EFI system. I know on the 98 5SFE engine that it's fuses 7 and 10 in the engine compartment. Also fuses 25, 26, 27, 28 and 32 on the instrument panel behind the coin tray. Your 01 may or may not be the same. Check your owner's manual.
If it was running before, changing the differential fluid shouldn't have done anything to its being able to start. Is there any chance that you are trying to start it with the air inlet hose between the air filter and the throttle body disconnected? That used to keep my 90 Camry from starting. Not sure about a newer car.
Trying to start after the cleaning fluid strongly suggests that the electrical spark system and the air are OK. It doesn't completely exonerate them but they are now low on the list. I believe it also exonerates your timing belt. Fuel (nukem 678) and computer system (Mike Gerber) come to the front. 2001 seems early for an ignition key problem.
When was the last time that the car was running and what happened since then?
Kep
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Often, it's the loose screw between the steering wheel and the driver's seat that needs to be fixed first!
I replaced the fuel filter and noted the car now sounds closer to running, but still does not. Ugh.
Mike, I checked the schematic and tested all fuses and relays, even wired the relays in circuit with alligator clips and wires - everything checked out OK. The instrument panel fuses and relays also check out OK too.
Kep, the air inlet to throttle body is connected, and the car last ran fine when I pulled it up the ramps to change the differential fluid.
I'm thinking the most likely candidates left are fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator, but I've been sniffing gas fumes for the last hour! nukem678 had suggested the fuel pressure regulator.
I don't believe that you should ever be able to smell gas when the engine is closed up. Look closely along the fuel rail where the injectors are and see if you notice any clean areas. If you do, it is highly indicative of a gas leak. My suspicion is possibly a cracked injector or a leaking injector seal. However, I can't see this completely shutting down the engine.
If you can get a fuel pressure gauge and setup I would encourage you to check the fuel delivery next.
The thing bothering me is what you could have done in the differential area that may have affected the fuel system. Is there any chance that you might have crushed a fuel line? That might also account for a fuel smell if you cracked it. Just a guess.
Kep
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Often, it's the loose screw between the steering wheel and the driver's seat that needs to be fixed first!
Kep, the fumes were only during changing the fuel filter, it's all good now (sorry for the confusion).
The differential fluid change was rather straightforward, but I'll check the fuel lines again just in case I hit one.
I agree a fuel pressure gauge setup would be helpful, but can't see spending that much for something I'll hopefully never use again. For the 4 cyl, the shop manual only shows a gauge used at the top connenction of the fuel filter. Depending on the pressure (high or low), it recommends checking the fuel pressure regulator (I haven't done), fuel hoses and connections (I'll re-check), fuel pump (the pump resistance measures good), and fuel filter (done).
Check Harbor Freight Tools on-line for an inexpensive fuel pressure testing kit. Some times they have them on sale for $10 or $15. I think their normal price is about $20.
You referred to the shop manual. The Toyota manual EG!-178 has a description of a simple fuel pump test but it looks like an OBI connector that they are describing. They say to 1) jump terminals B+ & FP on the data link connector; 2) turn the key to "on" (but not to start); 3) the fuel pump should be running; 4) pinch the top hose out of the fuel filter. You should feel pressure and hear fuel return noise; 5) turn key to off and remove jumper. If there is no pressure check fusible link, fuses (AM2/30A; EFI/15A; IGN/7.5A), EFI Main Relay, Fuel pump, and wiring connections. Then they go on to explain the gauge meathod.
Wierd thoughts, enough gas? Good voltage? Did you disrupt the Park/neutral sensor or wiring on the trany? I just keep coming back to the area that was being worked on...
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Often, it's the loose screw between the steering wheel and the driver's seat that needs to be fixed first!
I borrowed a friend's OBD-II diagnostic scanner (thanks Gerry!) which within minutes was reading error code P1310, Igniter Circuit Malfunction - No. 2. My son and I used the Diagnostic shop manual to isolate the connection between the ECM and Ignition Coil 2. Sure enough, terminal 2 of the Ignition Coil 2 connector was supposed to connect to IGT2 of the ECM, however it had been rewired by the previous owner for a remote start device. The connection was made with just black tape and had finally corroded and worked it's way loose. Without that connection "the ECM stops fuel injection as a fail safe". While refilling the differential fluid with the funnel and hose I must have jarred the already poor connection loose. But a blessing in disguise as it happened in my garage where I could do something about it.
Thanks to all on the forum who assisted, especially Mike and Kep who hung with me the whole time. (I wanted to change the fuel filter anyway!)
Lessons learned:
1) Spend ~$50 and buy a OBD-II diagnostic scanner. Talk about a time saver.
2) Although my first thought was I had knocked a connection loose, I didn't look everything over thoroughly enough to find the problem right away.
3) Just because I had spark on plug 1 didn't mean I had spark on plugs 2 or 3, as they are fed by the second ignition coil.
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recent timing belt, water pump
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