1998 Master Window Switch ? - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums


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3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001 Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 02-08-2008, 08:41 PM   #1 (permalink)
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4th Generation 1998 Master Window Switch ?

1998 camry, today i got in the car and tried to roll the window down and nothing happened. All the windows and switches worked fine until today. now none of the window switches work, but all of the lock switches work. i would just like some verification that its more than likely the master switch before i spend $50 on a new master switch. I'm guessing its the master switch because of the button that locks all of the other windows.
Thanks in advance.
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Old 02-08-2008, 11:03 PM   #2 (permalink)
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if anyone has an opinion it would be appreciated.
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Old 02-08-2008, 11:44 PM   #3 (permalink)
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the courtesy switches operate correctly, when i open each door the light comes on. i have a kentucky car. i think i am going to have to go to the junk yard and try one out. do you think it could be the master switch because of the button on it that locks all of the other windows. and if some thing in the switch went out wouldnt it cause all the other windows to not work since all the other wires run threw the switch?
thanks for your reply dc98cam
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Old 02-08-2008, 11:47 PM   #4 (permalink)
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dc98cam it looks like your reply disappeared
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Old 02-08-2008, 11:53 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Might be the master switch.
Remove the door panel, and locate two light blue wires going into the master switch ...These are the power wires... With the ignition on...you should see 12v wrt ground... ignition on.
Next, check the white wire with black stripe. It is the ground wire... With ignition off, check for continuity between wh/blk wire and chassis ground ... probably a screw or bolt on the main chassis .... not something on the door.
If you verify power and ground are as they should be, then you might try a local salvage yard for a spare master switch ... something without too many miles.
Is your car Japan made or American? Does your VIN begin with J?
A common problem for older Camrys was wires breaking in the vicinity of the door hinge... not sure about Gen4s though.
... yes.... still working....
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Old 02-09-2008, 12:01 AM   #6 (permalink)
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thanks ill do that and post the results. its an american car.
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Old 02-09-2008, 06:36 PM   #7 (permalink)
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PROBLEM SOLVED! I got a test light and tested the two blue wires like dc98cam suggested and what i found was the wires were barley lighting the test light and while the engine was on it was flickering, but barely noticeable. and the door lock wires were testing fine. previously i bought a new tail light relay so after looking at the diagram i switched the new tail light relay with the power relay that runs the windows. problem fixed, i suppose the original power relay was bad. the tail lights still work but it may be because i jiggled the relay while switching. so if my tail lights go out i know to buy a new relay. so the conclusion is if all your windows stop working all of a sudden but your door locks work, and you test the blue power wires on the harness and they show little or no current, more than likely its the relay and you can test this for free by switching relays with one of the other two assuming they are good as well.
thanks for your help dc98cam, as well as your help with my tail light problem about a month ago.
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Old 02-09-2008, 07:03 PM   #8 (permalink)
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What I recall from the wiring diagram is that the same power relay supplies current for the operation of the power windows, and also the door locks. The difference between the two is that the power windows require a lot more current than the door locks ... to operate. That's the only explanation that I can give for the situation you are describing.... Maybe there was a buildup of corrosion or oxide on the contactor points of the power relay... causing the problem. In effect... an additional electrical resistance in the contactor circuit, but not enough to completely stop the flow of current.
If you are now using the defective power relay for the tail lights ... you might want to find a replacement at a salvage yard...
This is a new problem that you have discovered here ... and definitely something that is not immediately obvious when you look at the schematics...
Glad you were able to find the problem ... It looks like those relays don't last forever.
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