(PICS UP NOW) Basic Tune Up...odd noise now....Read on. HELP! - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

stockmover · 02-14-2008, 12:31 PM

I have a 1994 Camry V6.(213k orig. engine) I just purchased the car and here is what I have had done to get it running properly.

PICS

http://www.box.net/shared/15ba0sm0wo

It was overheating when I bought it and it turned out to be a waterpump.

--New waterpump
--New Thermostat
--New Battery (check engine light came on after, then went away, maybe 15 miles later)
--New Timing Belt
--Spark Plugs
--PCV Valve
--Fuel Filter

Problem: The car was running GREAT after I had got the waterpump installed. I decided to get a new battery and tune up. After the battery was installed, the check engine light came on. I complained to Sears and they said since it was 94 and not 96 they could not run a test because it was for 96 and newer. No problem, the light went off later.

I decided to replace the spark plugs, those of you know I had to remove the manifold intake to do this for the last 3. Put everything back in place and it started up but seems to be making an odd winding sound while the engine is idling. The engine seems to be moving slightly now also, I did not notice that before. RED FLAG! The shop that did the waterpump broke a bolt by the water pump, its just hanging out there and I took it back to show them, they said they would have to keep it to take care of it but "Don't worry about it, its not going anywhere" (I can't believe business owners these days!) Today, I replaced the fuel filter, the original fuel filter was in there and the fuel was DIRTY. I was pretty shocked of that, so I am looking to get some better MPG when I test it next week.

The mechanic said to adjust the idle to solve the problem. He also said that it may just need a throttle body adjustment...what is this? I said I would rather not and get to the root of the problem.
I am looking for any suggestions from the community to help me remedy before taking it somewhere else because once these mechanics see the high mileage, out come all the theories and high priced repairs.

Thanks,

Stockmover

***toyomoho*** · 02-14-2008, 01:42 PM

Besides overheating what else was wrong with the car and how did it run when you purchased it? Did it ever run/idle OK? Exactly what is wrong with the car now?

Are you saying you paid for repairs you did not receive such as the fuel filter? If so and you used a credit card, stop payment until the shop adjusts the bill.

If you can remove the manifold you can do all the other repairs. Replacing the plugs can be done without removing the manifold.

The car does have an ODBI type diagnostic system that could have read out the code. It does not require a code reader so you can also do this. Sears most likely did not want to take the time to do this.

If you already don't have on pickup a service manual such as Haynes for around $20. Your library may also have these for checkout.

***Eye8Pussies*** · 02-14-2008, 02:35 PM

not sure about the whining noise, though it could just be the new timing belt breaking in (or rubbing on something), but as for the waterpump bolt- if it's actually one of the bolts on the water pump that holds the pump+gasket to the block, get that fixed right away. it may not be leaking now, but it will leak soon enough, and once any leakage gets past the gasket, it will need to be replaced- again.

as for the code- your 94 1mzfe is obdII- one of the very first in the world since obdII wasn't mandated in cars until 96. so next time you pop a code, go back to sears and tell them to hook it up. the port is in your change tray to the left/down of the steering wheel

stockmover · 02-14-2008, 03:08 PM

I apologize, I may not have explained this in the correct order. I bought the car, it was overheating. I took it to the shop and the waterpump was the problem, it was installed and its not overheating anymore.

Now after this, I decided to do a basic tune up. I got a backyard mechanic to come over and install the following; spark plugs,fuel filter,pcv valve. After this the engine's idle seemed to make a winding noise, sounds like its coming from the left side of the engine. Looking closely is where I saw the bolt hanging out the side near the waterpump. It actually connects the waterpump to the engine.

I took it back to the shop and they told me the sound was from me breaking a spark plug(whatever). They said they were very busy and could not correct the bolt until next week. I have decided I am not taking it back there, I do not trust them to work on the car and be honest anymore.

Ignore any typos, I'm typing on my blackberry.

Thanks,

Stockmover

Quote:

Originally Posted by toyomoho

Besides overheating what else was wrong with the car and how did it run when you purchased it? Did it ever run/idle OK? Exactly what is wrong with the car now?

Are you saying you paid for repairs you did not receive such as the fuel filter? If so and you used a credit card, stop payment until the shop adjusts the bill.

If you can remove the manifold you can do all the other repairs. Replacing the plugs can be done without removing the manifold.

The car does have an ODBI type diagnostic system that could have read out the code. It does not require a code reader so you can also do this. Sears most likely did not want to take the time to do this.

If you already don't have on pickup a service manual such as Haynes for around $20. Your library may also have these for checkout.

stockmover · 02-14-2008, 03:18 PM

Nothing else was wrong with the car before and the engine ran excellent.the problem now is the engine idle. I have did a search and another person had the same problem, they called it engine hiccups. While mine is not very noticeable I do notice it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by toyomoho

Besides overheating what else was wrong with the car and how did it run when you purchased it? Did it ever run/idle OK? Exactly what is wrong with the car now?

Are you saying you paid for repairs you did not receive such as the fuel filter? If so and you used a credit card, stop payment until the shop adjusts the bill.

If you can remove the manifold you can do all the other repairs. Replacing the plugs can be done without removing the manifold.

The car does have an ODBI type diagnostic system that could have read out the code. It does not require a code reader so you can also do this. Sears most likely did not want to take the time to do this.

If you already don't have on pickup a service manual such as Haynes for around $20. Your library may also have these for checkout.

digmycelica · 02-14-2008, 09:08 PM

First of all I would definitely let the shop repair the broken bolt if they have admitted to it and are going to fix it for free. otherwise you will have to pay someone else to fix it.
sometimes if you use an after market (non dealer) pcv valve they can make a little more noise ,even a wining sound or it's possible you have a vacuum hose off from removing the intake. which would cause all your problems, including check engine light ,hiccups, and hissing or wining sound.

ROBS · 02-15-2008, 02:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stockmover

.....After this the engine's idle seemed to make a winding noise, sounds like its coming from the left side of the engine. Looking closely is where I saw the bolt hanging out the side near the waterpump. It actually connects the waterpump to the engine....

Where exactly are you looking, because if the engine is running and everything was back assembled, there would be a "timing cover" covering the water pump and blocking its view. On the V6, this would be at the bottom left side out of view if you were looking from under the hood. Are you sure this bolt isn't on the "Thermostat Housing" (on the upper left side of the engine where the hose connects from the radiator)?

Now, if the engine is making a winding/whirring sound after you put the intake manifold on it could possibly be a vacuum leak at the intake manifold. Did you use a fresh gasket and some sealant putting the intake back on and also clean the mating surfaces thoroughly with a razor blade?

stockmover · 02-15-2008, 02:34 AM

Thanks for all of the replies, this a great source of information. I wil take a picture in the morning so everyone can see exactly what I am talking about. Its not the timing cover so I guess its not the water pump bolt BUT when I took it back to the shop, they did admit that they removed that bolt. I am not certain why I just noticed it now, my guess is that they welded the bolt in and with a little driving eventually it came out.

I did not use a fresh gasket or sealant when I put the intake manifold back on. I will mess around with it next week and see what I can do. Hopefully the weather will be better here. I will keep everyone posted on what's going on and the pics will be up later on.

THANKS!

Stockmover

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROBS

Where exactly are you looking, because if the engine is running and everything was back assembled, there would be a "timing cover" covering the water pump and blocking its view. On the V6, this would be at the bottom left side out of view if you were looking from under the hood. Are you sure this bolt isn't on the "Thermostat Housing" (on the upper left side of the engine where the hose connects from the radiator)?

Now, if the engine is making a winding/whirring sound after you put the intake manifold on it could possibly be a vacuum leak at the intake manifold. Did you use a fresh gasket and some sealant putting the intake back on and also clean the mating surfaces thoroughly with a razor blade?

ROBS · 02-15-2008, 04:28 AM

Hmm...probably the thermostat housing...geez...some places I tell you.

Ya, you've pobably got an intake leak and thats making the noise. Now, for the sealant, use "Permatex" brand "Aviation Form-A-Gasket" (it says on the label). Should be at any parts store. Comes in a small white container with a lid that unscrews which has a brush (attached to the lid to brush the stuff on). Really gooey stuff, try not to get it on you or else it will eventually end up everywhere...even your toothbrush

Just smear a thin layer on either side of the gasket. Stuff works like magic...its called cheap insurance...that'll take care of any leaks. Then just torque the intake back on to spec. and you'll be good to go.

HTH. Good luck.

stockmover · 02-15-2008, 09:48 AM

I just took some pictures. Link Below.

http://www.box.net/shared/15ba0sm0wo

Quote:

Originally Posted by Eye8Pussies

not sure about the whining noise, though it could just be the new timing belt breaking in (or rubbing on something), but as for the waterpump bolt- if it's actually one of the bolts on the water pump that holds the pump+gasket to the block, get that fixed right away. it may not be leaking now, but it will leak soon enough, and once any leakage gets past the gasket, it will need to be replaced- again.

as for the code- your 94 1mzfe is obdII- one of the very first in the world since obdII wasn't mandated in cars until 96. so next time you pop a code, go back to sears and tell them to hook it up. the port is in your change tray to the left/down of the steering wheel

ROBS · 02-15-2008, 08:41 PM

Damn...thats messed up...on the shops part.

Alright, well, thats definitely not the thermostat housing. On my engine, that would be a timing cover bolt, but I have a 3VZ-FE. Your lucky...looks like you sure got a lot more room to work between the engine and the chassis than I do.

I don't think things are that much different on the 1MZ-FE, I believe there is a timing cover, covering the water pump on your engine as well. Can someone confirm this??

You cant just reach down and tighten it up? Be careful it doesn't fall out while driving Damn...I would wonder what else they didn't do right. Hmm...I guess mistakes happen, they're probably working real quick, under pressure, got distracted while putting the timing cover back on and forgot what they were doing when they went back to it.

digmycelica · 02-15-2008, 09:47 PM

This is a bolt that goes through the front mount support and then goes through the waterpump. If it pushes all the way in and will not tighten then the bolt is broken and the job redone to get at the broken threads. at the best the front mount and timing covers will have to come off and hopefully they can get the threads to screw out with an easy-out bit.

stockmover · 02-16-2008, 02:03 AM

That appears to be correct about the bolt. The problem I am having now is that I really do not want to leave my car at this shop anymore. If they sent me out with this broken bolt and they had to have known, what else will they do? I do not want to risk them doing something vindictive to the engine. It could be just me, but anything is possible. I know for someone else to fix it, its going to be an arm and a leg. The bolt is definitely broken because when I attempt to hand tighten it, it only spins. Any advice is appreciated on the issue with the shop.

I plan to take the car into another shop Monday to get the engine idle issue looked at.

Quote:

Originally Posted by digmycelica

This is a bolt that goes through the front mount support and then goes through the waterpump. If it pushes all the way in and will not tighten then the bolt is broken and the job redone to get at the broken threads. at the best the front mount and timing covers will have to come off and hopefully they can get the threads to screw out with an easy-out bit.

Kep · 02-16-2008, 04:18 PM

By all means get an estimate from the other shop. It can't hurt.

Since this is Sears I expect that you could take it in to another Sears to have the work done if there is one nearby that you trust. Call around and see if they can figure out how to do the internal billing. Then talk with the shop manager of the Sears that did the work and point out that while you're sure that this was a fluke you just don't trust the guy that worked on your car to do anymore service on it. He may convince you to let another of his ACE mechanics do the work, or not. No matter who does the work ask them to explain what they plan to do and what the worst case scenario is. Then if you're comfortable with it, let them at it. If not then, yeah, you could be looking at a large bill to fix it. You might be able to get Sears to reimburse you for it by complaining but, I would be surprised.

I would also take them to task for putting you off because they were busy. This is unacceptable! I would not talk to anyone but the shop manager. If he (or she) is the one who put you off, I would go up to the store manager or the area manager. By the way, keep all of your paper work. If you leave it with someone, leave copies and keep the originals. Keep track of the names of people that you speak to and those that work on the car. I have never considered Sears as a top notch mechanic service but I have had them work on my cars. When they messed up they did work with me but they always were persnickidy about paperwork.

I am unfamiliar with the six. Is the motor mount jeapordized by this one bolt being loose/broken? Should stockmover check any other bolts for the same mount? I am suspecting that they overtightened it when they put it back on and stripped the threads.

Kep

stockmover · 02-18-2008, 11:53 AM

Thanks for the input. I wrote so much it was probably confusing.

I got the battery installed at Sears, the engine light came on but went off later.

Prior to this I got the waterpump at a local automotive shop and this is where the bolt was broken. The problem is that I do not want to take it back for them to fix it because I do not want them to do anything vindictive to the engine. Sounds strange but I just do not feel comfortable with them breaking a bolt and not fixing it but still sending me out with the broken bolt. When I returned it, one of the mechanics said there are 4 bolts and that is "only 1 of them and it will be fine, its probably loose and bring it back when you have time, its ok to drive". Sounds comical in my opinion.

Anyway, thats a better explanation of the situation.

Thanks,

Stockmover

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kep

By all means get an estimate from the other shop. It can't hurt.

Since this is Sears I expect that you could take it in to another Sears to have the work done if there is one nearby that you trust. Call around and see if they can figure out how to do the internal billing. Then talk with the shop manager of the Sears that did the work and point out that while you're sure that this was a fluke you just don't trust the guy that worked on your car to do anymore service on it. He may convince you to let another of his ACE mechanics do the work, or not. No matter who does the work ask them to explain what they plan to do and what the worst case scenario is. Then if you're comfortable with it, let them at it. If not then, yeah, you could be looking at a large bill to fix it. You might be able to get Sears to reimburse you for it by complaining but, I would be surprised.

I would also take them to task for putting you off because they were busy. This is unacceptable! I would not talk to anyone but the shop manager. If he (or she) is the one who put you off, I would go up to the store manager or the area manager. By the way, keep all of your paper work. If you leave it with someone, leave copies and keep the originals. Keep track of the names of people that you speak to and those that work on the car. I have never considered Sears as a top notch mechanic service but I have had them work on my cars. When they messed up they did work with me but they always were persnickidy about paperwork.

I am unfamiliar with the six. Is the motor mount jeapordized by this one bolt being loose/broken? Should stockmover check any other bolts for the same mount? I am suspecting that they overtightened it when they put it back on and stripped the threads.

Kep