3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
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I have a major problem with one of the front axle nuts on my 1996 4-cyl Camry - it's one big rusted mess!
The previous owner installed BORBET aluminum rims on the car - the problem - the center cap on the left front rim retained water for a long, long time behind it. The result: the nut looks like it came from the Titanic - it has so much rust on it it doesn't even look like a nut any longer.
I used a stiff wire brush and one of those products at the auto store that is "supposed" to remove rust. At this rate, it will take me to 2010 to finally get the ^%$& nut off!
Any suggestions on how to tackle this problem?
Last edited by ridaalki; 02-22-2008 at 08:27 PM.
Reason: added word
Thanks for the socket size - a breaker bar is a good idea - why didn't I think of this?
Brain fart?
If you don;t have one, they are like $20 at most auto stores. Make sure it has a 2ft handle, not any shorter. And make SURE you have the car on jack stands.
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'95 Corolla AE101: JDM Tails/Trunk Panel/Grill/Headlights with BiXenon Projectors. JDM Lighted Ignition Keyring and Cabin Air Filter
5 Lug Corolla WHAT?
If you don;t have one, they are like $20 at most auto stores. Make sure it has a 2ft handle, not any shorter. And make SURE you have the car on jack stands.
Either that or use a piece of steel pipe to increase leverage. Just don't use that with a ratchet...
My friend broke his 3/8" ratchet with a 6 ft cheater once.
i don't think 3/8 ratch is strong enough
last time i used a 1/2" deep socket 30mm, with a craftman 1/2 ratchet, and 6 ft pipe from home depot fence section, don't jackup the car just yet, pull hand brake, and have some1 step on the brake padel hard to lock the wheel from spinning.
i was afraid i was going to break either the craftman 1/2" ratchet or the socket before the nuts will come loose, i think that was torqued at 210+ lb ft. i saw the pipe started to flex. i must have applied about 50 lbs of force at the end of the 6 ft pipe, that translate into roughly 300lb ft of torque.
i don't think 3/8 ratch is strong enough
last time i used a 1/2" deep socket 30mm, with a craftman 1/2 ratchet, and 6 ft pipe from home depot fence section, don't jackup the car just yet, pull hand brake, and have some1 step on the brake padel hard to lock the wheel from spinning.
i was afraid i was going to break either the craftman 1/2" ratchet or the socket before the nuts will come loose, i think that was torqued at 210+ lb ft. i saw the pipe started to flex. i must have applied about 50 lbs of force at the end of the 6 ft pipe, that translate into roughly 300lb ft of torque.
I was saying that's how my friend broke his 3/8" ratchet.
I wouldn't use a ratchet period. A breaker bar is much more stout. As for the amount of force you had to apply, any rust or corrosion would have accounted for the tightness.
If you are afraid of the socket breaking, you may consider using an impact socket instead of the regular sockets. Impact sockets are a lot tougher, but also more expensive.
Make sure you get a craftsman breaker bar or something... no cheap chinese steel. I was using a chinese breaker bar over the summer while pulling off an wheel hub knuckle so I could get the struts off, and it broke and splintered and I got stabbed with a piece... it sucked pretty bad.
If you don;t have one, they are like $20 at most auto stores. Make sure it has a 2ft handle, not any shorter. And make SURE you have the car on jack stands.
DONT have the car on jackstands OR a jack to break that nut loose. Leave the car on the GROUND until you break it free. You can access the hub nut with the tire still on the car.
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1993 Camry LE I4 Bone Stock - 380,000 miles (as of Aug '11)
1993 Camry XLE V6 Bone Stock - 260,xxx miles (as of July '11) Blown Head Gasket
2003 Chevy Trailblazer EXT I6 - 107,000 miles (as of Aug '11)
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