3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
Can't believe I'm spending money on the Camster again. Sounded like I had a load of wood crates in the trunk every time I hit a bump, and it was getting all squirrely on me. Had it in a week ago and had the rear sway bar bushings replaced, but that didn't take care of it. Took it in again today and told them I thought the next pot hole I hit would result in the entire rear axle coming off. Went for a ride for show and tell and the diagnosis this time was bad rear struts and strut mounts, so will be getting new struts and mounts for the rear end and an alignment to boot-all for the bargain price of $666. (So much for the LCD Flat Panel TV fund.) At least that was less than the dealer wanted for the same work--it could have been around $850. I guess I can't complain too much since the rear struts made it for 124,000 miles. While it's up in the air, asked them to check the flex pipe to see if that was replaced correctly or if it could be a contributing factor to the annoying shake at idle that jsn commented on in an earlier post. It would be great to kill two birds with one stone.
I'm never going to be able to afford to sell this car, so it's a good thing I still like it.
Last edited by Lexster; 02-26-2008 at 07:01 PM.
Reason: Was a stupid post
Yes, they said they were going to use KYB struts. Thanks for the suggestion--it's nice to know that someone else would recommend the same. You know, I don't think pulling the parking brake to make the rear end swing around in the snow a couple times this winter helped, but it was fun. I would not recommend doing that again. As for doing the work myself--not a good idea. Changing out a flat tire about taps out my mechanical skill, plus I want to do my part to keep the economy going.
So I got my LE back and it handles much better, but after spending a little over $650 dollars on it, it still makes this rumble when I hit bumps that sounds like I'm carrying wood crates with loose lids in my trunk. The owner of the shop I took it to is the nicest guy and really tries to do a good job, I hate like crazy the thought of having to tell him it still makes that irritating noise. He said my old struts were shot so it was good they replaced them, and I believe that. He replaced them with KYB and new mounts. I checked my trunk to make sure it wasn't the spare tire or jack that's rattling around, but I really think it's coming from way underneath maybe a little more toward the right rear side. I can sort of hear it if I push hard on the side of the rear and get it rocking back and forth / side to side, but if I just push down on the back bumper to get it going up and down it's quiet. I also had the sway bar bushings replaced a week ago. This is driving me crazy. It just seems like something is a little loose and just needs to be tightened up. What could it be?
You mean, did he check them? I have no clue. I want to believe that if he knew what he was doing he would have, but I'll ask. He said he took it for a ride himself to make sure it sounded normal. I've driven the car for 13+ years. It doesn't sound normal. Thanks for the idea.
more than likely it sounds like 1 of the lateral control arm bushings is going bad. there is a thread here to check it. have to either drop the gas tank or the rears subframe assembly to change. the arms not cheap either. 151k on my camry and just about every bushing in the car is worn out and being replaced. my 2 cents
If the mechanic doesn't resolve it you may want to consider getting some silicon spray, or WD40, and start spraying your suspension bushings. Basically, you spray one bushing, drive it around and see if it still makes the noise. If not, that was the problem, if so, spray a second bushing and drive it around. Keep track of which bushings you have treated and which you haven't. Once you find the culprit you can deal with it.
I am not sure which model Camry you have. Some had fairly flimsy dust covers and air baffles by the brakes. These would get damaged and rattle. And of course, in my day, there was the ever popular marbles in the hub cap routine...
Kep
__________________
Often, it's the loose screw between the steering wheel and the driver's seat that needs to be fixed first!
I'll be honest, a lot of this is Greek to me. I talked to my mechanic about the end links and he said that was the only thing that could be replaced that they didn't replace so he'll try that Friday. I've already spent over $750 on this to replace the rear struts, mounts, and sway bar bushings, so it would be nice to really address the problem this time and not waste even more money on a fix that "might" work and that will likely not add any value to the car. Like I said, I really don't know much about this, but it happens the worst when I go over a succession of bumps--even small ones. It really gets going then and kind of rumbles like the rear axle or something is able to slap up and down more than it should. I swear I can even feel it. It's kind of a hollow sound--sounds like I'm riding in a tin can from back there. It really drives me crazy because it's such a nice car. So one post says end links, another lateral control arms and/or bushings. Not sure what to tell the mechanic. Couldn't he just check them out to see if any of those things is worn or has play in it that shouldn't be there before he just starts replacing end links and if that doesn't work go for the lateral control arms? I should have sold it and taken on a little more debt to get the 2001 Lexus RX300 I've been drooling over. I thought this was going to be a relatively simple fix.
Ur mechanic should beable to tell if the end links are making the noise before u replace them...all he has to do it hit the sway bar where the link is connected with the palm of his hand and listen!
__________________
96 Camry Coupe LE V6
98 Honda CRV
08 GMC Crew
11 Kia Sportage EX AWD
more than likely it sounds like 1 of the lateral control arm bushings is going bad. there is a thread here to check it. have to either drop the gas tank or the rears subframe assembly to change. the arms not cheap either. 151k on my camry and just about every bushing in the car is worn out and being replaced. my 2 cents
RudyT may be right about one of the rear lateral control rods being at fault, but you don't have to drop the gas tank or rear subframe to check them. You could actually check this yourself. Just jack up that side of the car. Now grab the wheel and tire combination and try to move it front to back and in and out a bit. If you can, you probably will hear the noise too. Usually this means the rear lateral control rod #2 is bad. That's the one furthest back, with the adjustable sleeve for the rear adjustment on it. The rubber bushing inside of it goes bad and causes the metal to metal sound. You have to replace the whole lateral control rod (a dealer only part) and then redo the alignment. To my knowledge the bushings alone are not available.
Or you could have the mechanic check this while the car is in the air. It will take him about 1 minute while he also checks the sway bar end links.
Thanks Mike / Rudy, all. Really helpful info. Not sure my mechanic will be thrilled with all my questions, but don't really want to fund any more "fishing" expeditions. Sounds like the control arm fix is not a cheap one. I'm already at $750. Can the bleeding please stop before I reach $1000?
If it is that rear lateral control rod, the part is about $150 at the dealer. Installing it should be about 1/2 hour of labor. Then add the cost of an alignment. If it's the swaybar endlink on one side, it is available aftermarket at NAPA for about $50. Again labor should be minimal to install it. 1/2 hour would be generous. If it's the sway bar bushings, they are available at NAPA again for about $8 each. You car needs 2 of them. Again, 1/2 labor would be generous for this job. With the later 2 repairs I mentioned, you will not need to redo the alignment.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
ToyotaNation.com is an independent Toyota/Lexus enthusiast website. ToyotaNation.com is not sponsored by or in any way affiliated with Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc. The Toyota, Lexus and Scion names and logos are trademarks owned by Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc.
Elusive rumble in rear suspension of 95 4cyl LE
(So much for the LCD Flat Panel TV fund.) At least that was less than the dealer wanted for the same work--it could have been around $850. I guess I can't complain too much since the rear struts made it for 124,000 miles. While it's up in the air, asked them to check the flex pipe to see if that was replaced correctly or if it could be a contributing factor to the annoying shake at idle that jsn commented on in an earlier post. It would be great to kill two birds with one stone.
I would not recommend doing that again. As for doing the work myself--not a good idea. Changing out a flat tire about taps out my mechanical skill, plus I want to do my part to keep the economy going.
Linear Mode
