3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
Well, the battery turned out to be bad so replacing it solved the problems with the starting but the other problem with the random jerks is still there unfortunately.
When the car is idling (around 800 rpm), every couple of seconds (but not at a constant interval) the engine shakes, the rpm needle dips down momentarily by a couple of hundred rpms and then come right back up. The headlamps and the dashboard lights momentarily go dim as well probably due to the alternator slowing down. The jerks are more severe when it's in drive with brakes engaged (while stopped at the light). But when I apply a little bit of gas so the rpm is slightly above 1000, the jerks go away. I can keep the needle at 1100 rpms and the engine revs smoothly. The car drives ok; I don't feel any shakes or jerks while driving. The only difference I feel is a little lack in power but I might be imagining it.
I would consider checking the O-ring on the distributor.... I had a similar problem on one of my old cars.... bought my car to a halt on the motorway one night after a faultless 3 1/2 hr trip. see if there is any oil leaking from below the dizzy - that's a good indication of its condition.
Start checking out the operation of your sensors. They are all supposed to act in harmony to keep the engine running smoothly and efficiently. If one acts up it can affect the engine operation in wierd ways. Especially if it is intermittant.
I would also recommend what I am going to start calling "Kep's Trilogy". Go ahead and clean the EGR system, the Throtle body, and the IAC valve. If any of these three is getting dirty but has not completely clogged up or become stuck they might cause a momentary change in the RPM until they reseated correctly.
Kep
__________________
Often, it's the loose screw between the steering wheel and the driver's seat that needs to be fixed first!
A bottle of techron fuel injector cleaner may make your miss at idle go away.
If it doesn't, it's still a good idea to put one in (at the gas station just prior to filling the tank) every once in a while to help keep the injectors clean.
It did the trick to my 1994 5sfe camry several years back.
Jsn
I seafoamed the engine both through the brake booster and the fuel tank a week ago. I also had new spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, and rotor installed. This is puzzling; I can't seem to locate the source of the problem.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jsn
A bottle of techron fuel injector cleaner may make your miss at idle go away.
If it doesn't, it's still a good idea to put one in (at the gas station just prior to filling the tank) every once in a while to help keep the injectors clean.
It did the trick to my 1994 5sfe camry several years back.
Jsn
Start checking out the operation of your sensors. They are all supposed to act in harmony to keep the engine running smoothly and efficiently. If one acts up it can affect the engine operation in wierd ways. Especially if it is intermittant.
I would also recommend what I am going to start calling "Kep's Trilogy". Go ahead and clean the EGR system, the Throtle body, and the IAC valve. If any of these three is getting dirty but has not completely clogged up or become stuck they might cause a momentary change in the RPM until they reseated correctly.
Kep
which sensors are we talking about and how would I check their operations?
Just a suggestion, but you might want to take it somewhere to at least get a professional opinion on the cause or maybe pay to have it diagnosed then you can change whatever is needed yourself. It will probably end up being cheaper than throwing more parts at it.
The sensors will change slightly from model year to model year and from I-4 to V6. What engine do you have?
Just off the top there are sensors for engine temperature (electrical and vacuum ), air flow meter (I think that that is the same as manifold pressure), RPM, anti knock, exhaust O2, air temperature, throtle valve opening, more?
Get yourself a manual (Chilton or Toyota) and it will give you pretty good troubleshooting and testing info.
Kep
__________________
Often, it's the loose screw between the steering wheel and the driver's seat that needs to be fixed first!
We need to know not just what engine you have (Your profile shows a 2.2 liter. That's a 4 cylinder 5SFE engine, since you are posting in the gen 3 and 4 forum.), but also what year. The 5SFE engine used on the generation 3's (1992-1996) had a distributor. The 5SFE engine used on generation 4's (1997-2001) had a distributorless ignition system. This could mean different problems for different model years. It is also helpful to know how many miles on the car.
We need to know not just what engine you have (Your profile shows a 2.2 liter. That's a 4 cylinder 5SFE engine, since you are posting in the gen 3 and 4 forum.), but also what year. The 5SFE engine used on the generation 3's (1992-1996) had a distributor. The 5SFE engine used on generation 4's (1997-2001) had a distributorless ignition system. This could mean different problems for different model years. It is also helpful to know how many miles on the car.
Mike
Hi Mike,
It's a 1994 Toyota Camry I4 2.2L 5SFE with about 130K on the odometer.
Sorry, I missed the fact that you replaced the distributor cap, rotor, etc. That would obviously make it a generation 3 Camry with a distributor.
I would start by doing what Kep suggested. That is, cleaning the throttle body with throttle body cleaner or O2 safe carb cleaner. Pay particular attention to spraying the cleaner liberally in to the square or diamond shaped port at the base of the throttle body. That port leads to the idle air control valve, which may be the cause of the problem. The idle air control valve can become clogged and cause the irratic idle you describe.
Also, I would check all vacuum lines thoroughly for vacuuum leaks. A slight vacuum leak could also cause the irratic idle.
It runs fine while moving but doesnt idle right, thus to state the obvious, the problem is in the idle system - the advice the other people have given you is sound, clean the IAC and throttle body, you will surely notice a difference and hopefully that will fix it.
If that doesnt fix it, here are some other possible causes: bad plug wires; bad spark plugs, or wrong type of spark plugs; or plugs are improperly gapped. Ignition timing set wrong; one or more fuel injectors clogged.
I had the same exact problem about a year ago, turned out to be the ignition coil. You can pick up another coil for about $35 at Auto Zone or Advance Auto Parts.
__________________ All of the lag, none of the boost.
VTEC It's like waiting for really bad sex.
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