3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
Was just driving through town (after a 20 mile highway speed drive--ran just fine) and the engine shut off, cranks just fine, but won't fire. took the gas cap off and listened while the engine was being cranked, and didn't hear the fuel pump run, assuming one is supposed to be able to hear it. The tank is more than 3/4 full.
Earlier in the day, the car ran somewhat rough when in Drive at stoplights, hadn't done that before.
Any advice as to where to start would be appreciated--!!
More info needed. It sure sounds more like the timing belt broke. You can pull the tb top cover and check or take off the distributor cap and see if the rotor turns while you crank the engine (it won't if the belt snapped).
If not that then you will need to check for spark & fuel.
Kep
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Often, it's the loose screw between the steering wheel and the driver's seat that needs to be fixed first!
Under the hood, and pursuant to my research on this site, I found fuse AM2 30A blown. Does anyone happen to know what may have caused this fuse to blow?
AM2 fuse goes to ECU’s for engine and trans, ignitor, coil, injectors, EFI main relay. There is also a capacitor in this circuit to reduce noise. The EFI relay has its own fuse.
Might start by looking for frayed wiring, bad connections. A guess might be coil issue as the engine did run rough.
has anyone experienced fuel pump failure leading to the AM2 fuse blowing? Thanks. Also, on this 93 Camry 2.2, is the capacitor inside the distributor? Also, where does one find the place to jump the fuel pump? Where is the coil located??
The coil is in the distributor body. You can do a static test with the distributor cap off but you need to remove the distributor body from the engine in order to replace the coil. If you do, remember tonote the position of the rotor and to put on a couple of match marks between the body and engine so you can replace the body correctly. There are two terminals that you can jump in the OBDI plug with the key in accessory to get the fuel pump to come on but I forget which two. It has been posted previously.
Kep
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Often, it's the loose screw between the steering wheel and the driver's seat that needs to be fixed first!
Used an ohmmeter to determine continuity between the positive+ terminal on the coil after removing the distributor cap, rotor and plastic shield, and found there was continuity from the + terminal to an engine ground. Removed the nut on the + terminal, removed the wire terminal from the capacitor (noise supressor), replaced the nut on the positive terminal and again checked for continuity between the + terminal and engine ground, none found !!! Then I snipped off the capacitor lead wire as far back as I could reach and put the shield, rotor and cap back on, reconnected everything, put in a new AM2 fuse, it started right up and went for a test drive--ran perfectly !!
Thanks again to everyone who posted responses and to previous searched posts !!
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