3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
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92' camry 4cyl Overheats on idle after warmed up and drops when driving. Need Help...
Ok I have a 92' 4 cyl camry which overheats on idle after being warmed up , but drops when driving. Fans are working, changed the head gasket and waterpump last year, new radiator cap and thermostat. No leaks. Any ideas?
Thanks
bad thermostat i've been there, change your thero, it should be fine
I believe I changed the thermostat the same time with the Head gasket.
I would think that if the thermostat is bad wouldn't the fans not turn on and as well as one hose be colder?
the fans should still turn cuz mine did, the hose near the bottom of the block should be colder..thats wat i could think of, because i had the same problem, when i acelerated the temp would decrease but while it sat at idle it would warm up fans would kick in but the temp remained the same could either be your radiator cap busted and its not letting coolant to flow to the reservior im not sure though but my guess is the thermo
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the fans should still turn cuz mine did, the hose near the bottom of the block should be colder..thats wat i could think of, because i had the same problem, when i acelerated the temp would decrease but while it sat at idle it would warm up fans would kick in but the temp remained the same could either be your radiator cap busted and its not letting coolant to flow to the reservior im not sure though but my guess is the thermo
Just because a thermostat is 1 year old, it doesn't always mean it is working properly. I have seen bad components right out of the box. If you don't want to replace your thermostat, then just remove it from the car and place it in a pan of water on the stove. Heat the water to near boiling and see if the thermostat is opening. If the water boils and the thremostat is still not open, you have found your problem. If the thermostat checks out ok you can put it back in and move on. Since you also replaced the waterpump last year we will consider that as ok. Next thing to check would be your radiator. It may be clogged up and can no longer dissipate the heat properly. I would next troubleshoot the radiator. I would remove the radiator and take it to a radiator shop that can flow test it.
Just because a thermostat is 1 year old, it doesn't always mean it is working properly. I have seen bad components right out of the box. If you don't want to replace your thermostat, then just remove it from the car and place it in a pan of water on the stove. Heat the water to near boiling and see if the thermostat is opening. If the water boils and the thremostat is still not open, you have found your problem. If the thermostat checks out ok you can put it back in and move on. Since you also replaced the waterpump last year we will consider that as ok. Next thing to check would be your radiator. It may be clogged up and can no longer dissipate the heat properly. I would next troubleshoot the radiator. I would remove the radiator and take it to a radiator shop that can flow test it.
Mike
I will go ahead and test the thermostat. As for the radiator testing, we don't have a shop out here (Guam) where they can flow test it. Thanks.
OP,
I'd like to revisit the cooling fan issue. With the car idling and the AC and defrost off, are the fans coming on as the temp rises?
I was thinking the same thing. By "fans are working", do you mean when the A/C is on? The reason I ask is becuase they are turned on without the A/C being on by a sensor in the radiator. That sensor could be out. There is another system that turns both fans on when the A/C is turned on. That system is independent of the sensor in the radiator.
I was thinking the same thing. By "fans are working", do you mean when the A/C is on? The reason I ask is becuase they are turned on without the A/C being on by a sensor in the radiator. That sensor could be out. There is another system that turns both fans on when the A/C is turned on. That system is independent of the sensor in the radiator.
Mike
Ok I will inspect it today. Could it be the speed of the fan not working as it should be.
You could be getting some blow by, heating up the coolant at the headgasket. You said you changed the headgasket about a year ago, well about the headbolts. These can sometime stretch and not have the head and the block seat right. Ive seen this happen on Toyota 22R engines, and yes even after a couple of month of changing a headgasket.
If you car overly smokes on start up or has a very wet feel to the exhaust. this could be your problem. Another way to identify this is if your coolant reservoir is overly full after idling/overheating. Exhaust gases can seep in the coolant passages at the headgasket heating up the coolant and putting some air into the system. The air will also force coolant into the reservoir since it is trying to find a place to escape. This will cause your car to overheat at idle, while you are driving you have the air and faster cooling flow (water pump is spinning faster) to cool the car down.
First see if it is the thermostat or your fans, hopefully you find your problem there, if not
Retorque the headbolts. If that dosn't fix it, replace the headbolts. Also check your radiator fins if there is crud stuck on them that will cause it retain heat.
Thermostat: check like Mike said or just remove it from the car and run without it for a while (if no problem then it was probably the thermostat).
No spinning fan when hot:
*Fan: unplug the sensor connection and the fan should come on (with the key in the run position). (Just for grins, disconnect the sensor and run direct battery wire to fan to exonerate the electrical supply if the fan doesn't turn with the sensor connection unplugged.)
*Water temp sensor: Both 1) below 181 Far. there should be continuity and 2) over 199 Far. there should not be continuity between the engine coolant temperature switch (lower passenger side of radiator)
*Cooling fan relay: 1) With no battery connected there should be continuity between 1&2 and between 3&4. 2) With battery connected to terminals 1&2 there should be no continuity between 3&4.
*Engine Main Relay: 1) With no battery connected there should be continuity between terminals 3&5 and continuity between 2&4. There should not be continuity between 1&2. 2) With battery power to terminals 3&5 there should be continuity between 1&2 and there should not be continuity between 2&4
If the above check out OK then I would suspect the water pump itself or possibly a leaking head gasket. But check the t-stat and fan operation first.
Kep
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Often, it's the loose screw between the steering wheel and the driver's seat that needs to be fixed first!
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