3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
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I have pulled my rod bearings to look at them since I had a clanking noise around 2500 rpms. My #4 Cylinder has a bad bearing. When I went to the local parts store they told me that it took a standard bearing. They ordered them. When I called the Toyota dealer they said that each cylinder could take a different one...depending on the number stamped on the end cap. The dealer said the end cap should have a 1, 2 or 3 stamped on it. My car's end caps have 1's, a 'D' and a '5'.
My question is.....does it matter? Have you guys replaced bearings with a 'standard' type? I was going to replace all 4 but if they want particular bearings I may just replace the bad one.
There should be a number on the cap: 1, 2 or 3 for the thickness. Given your info assume it is a 1.
Standard rod clearance is 0.0009-0.0022 inch. Max clearance is 0.0031.
A standard after market bearing should provide this clearance range but best to confirm using a Plastigage. Have used both the sized bearings from the dealer and standard aftermarket bearings to replace them with no problems. Just make sure you are in the clearance range.
Replaced bearings last night. I went ahead and ordered the matching ones from a Toyota dealer. While I was in there I replaced all of them. Coated them with some special grease to keep them slippery until oil got to them. To me, the big pain of the whole ordeal was getting to all of the oil pan bolts! Some of them were aggravating to get to. Guess I needed the right tools, huh?
Anyway, the manuals had me torquing down the bolts and then going 90 degrees farther? I just torqued them a little farther than they asked. Same with the engine balancer.
The torque procedure should be followed, the fasteners are designed to be stretched a bit, to overcome the repeated tension/compression stress cycles. How much further (in degrees) like 2 degrees? How much did you add?
If you turn too much, you will over stretch the fastener, and then the fastener will yield, and the fastener and joint will not be at the designed tension.
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2004 RX330 Sport
2003 Cam I4 XLE
2000 Cam XLE Gold Edition V6
1998 CamCE I4 Super Commuter!
The torque procedure should be followed, the fasteners are designed to be stretched a bit, to overcome the repeated tension/compression stress cycles. How much further (in degrees) like 2 degrees? How much did you add?
If you turn too much, you will over stretch the fastener, and then the fastener will yield, and the fastener and joint will not be at the designed tension.
I like the way you talk. (from the movie Swing Blade)
As Hajoca this torque method stretches the bolts to provide the correct clamp up force. As installed now the bolts are under torqued which can cause failure of the joint. Even thought it will be a pain strongly suggest you retorque the bolts per the manual.
referring to the actual bolts or studs, just like the wheel studs, they are stretched so that they are in tension loading all the time to reduce the effects of metal fatigue. The design is to maintain the tension to over 1 million cycles to exceed the fatigue limit. After that you should be home free.
If you really over stretched the bolts, the bolt stretched during the few degrees of turning, and now the bolt is longer permanently. (Yielding) so the force is less than spec'ed.
Like I posted above if more than a few degrees, my few is like under 5 degrees, re do it.
If you turned the nut another 1/16th of a turn or more, get it a priority to redo it. Clean the surfaces, put on assembly lube (or motor oil) and take your time.
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2004 RX330 Sport
2003 Cam I4 XLE
2000 Cam XLE Gold Edition V6
1998 CamCE I4 Super Commuter!
OK, now I have a question, if the bolts were tightened too much (the 5 degree bit) would you need to replace them or would loosening them allow them to return to their original shape and then just retorque them correctly afterward?
Kep
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Often, it's the loose screw between the steering wheel and the driver's seat that needs to be fixed first!
OK, now I have a question, if the bolts were tightened too much (the 5 degree bit) would you need to replace them or would loosening them allow them to return to their original shape and then just retorque them correctly afterward?
Kep
Usually bolts that have a specified torque setting and deform or 'stretch'. They're a one use item. If you're only 5 degrees over the specified amount, that's nothing. If it specified 90 degrees past xyz FT LBS, and you went 95, it's nothing. It's just the actual stretch PAST the FT LBS. Now, if you were to go 120, that's considerably more, and I wouldn't personally trust the bolts.
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Replacing Rod bearings ...
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