sensor identification

[septicdeath]

Hey guys, I was changing the front motor mount on my "new" used 93 V6 Camry Wagon, and because I had just did a oil change, like a idiot, I didnt remove the oil filter. I was able to get a ratchet on the 17mm bolt, until it sliped and took out the white sensor connected to the front of the block, about 1 inch to the left (passenger side) and 1 inch below the oil filter. Im guessing its a oil temp, engine water temp, or crank sensor. I went ahead and cranked the car over, and the check engine light came on and it sparked 1 once and then protected itself and wont fire anymore.

Can someone please identify this part, again, stock v6 (3vzfe) 1993 Camry Wagon. And its a white plastic body...



Thanks, luckly it snaped at the sensor and not the connector, so I can just re-attach when it I get the replacement. Looking at it, its got a weird round connector holding it in, does a special socket fit, or some sort of channel lock type device? Its obvious I am going to have to pull the oil filter, and why that is off, I will torque the engine mount bolt as well, since like I said, I was being a DUMB ass.

At 6' 2" and 274lb my big ass dont fit in alot of areas on this thing...


Septic

[Kep]

This is on the front of the engine, right? Not the side?

Kep

[septicdeath]

yes. just below (inches) and to the lefts (inches) of the Oil Filter. the the same left/right position as the oil stick tube (if that makes sense).

The more I think about it, the more I think that having my big ass arms jammed in working on replacing the front motor mount, the more I realize that while I only lifted the front of the engine (with only the rear mount connected) pivoting it 2" or so up in the front, maybe something else popped loose? Like I said, the Check Engine light is now illuminated permanently, It was late, and I don't recall if the oil dummy was on as well.

I still need to know what the sender is, and regardless I need to replace it, but would it not being connected (the top of the sender is still in the connector) cause a CEL and motor to spark once but then NOT allow it to start, although not allowing the engine to run when it looses pressure makes sense, I don't think they allow that to happen. I guess I start with replacing this sensor and give it a try, hopefully I can get it at a local auto parts while I pick up some motor oil and filter, since the first thing I need to do is remove the oil filter so that I can actually get a real angle to get the bolt that connects to the top of the motor mount sufficiently tight.

Thanks, I'm sure someone will have this identified before I head home from work today so I can stop by a shop and get the part. I've look like at autozones online sensor, and the closest it comes to "identifing" any sensor in this area is a knock sensor, which is something new to me.

Thanks again.

Septic

[septicdeath]

Got a motor exploded view from someone and its the Engine Oil Pressure sender. Not sure why the CEL came on, but maybe if its not hooked up the ecu does something, I'll go home and jump pins and count CEL flashes tonight.

Thanks

[septicdeath]

Checked the CEL codes at the diagnostic port and had just the steady flash (no code). And it started right up and the light went out. Like I said, I was tired and it was late. hahahaha.


I do have another question, I cant find anywhere what the ft lbs torque on the oil sensor should be? It didn't come with a gasket, so I want to make sure it doesnt leak. I Also dont want to get crazy on it and mess up the threads. I figure the thing shouldnt leak with just even being hand tight, I could be wrong, but hell the oil filter is nothing but hand tightened. Anyway's, the whole thing feels like it could easily stip the threads, and I dont want that. So anyone know what I should torque it to?


Thanks again.

Septic

[Kep]

If this is the oil pressure switch (though I thought that was on the side of the engine, not the front) The manual says to apply an adhesive (their part #08833-00080 Three bond 1344; loctite 242 or equivalent) to a couple of threads by the flange and then torque it down to 13 N-m (130 kgf-cm / 9ft-lbf). 9 ft lb isn't much so go easy. They also refer to a special too to do this but I suspect that it is essentially a low reading torque wrench.

Kep