$*&&*($ Oil Change Foiled

[masteryota1]

OK, so I finally get car up on ramps to do my first oil change on the camry (1995 v-6 XLE) i have taken off the oil cap, made sure i had all my rags, my drain pan, and a little light, i slide up under, take my 14mm socket, AND BAM. Bolt appears to be stripped, because im not getting past a quarter turn before it starts slipping. i went on and tried the open end wrench , i get close, but couldnt even get it to break. At that point i decide its better not to loosen, because i probably wont be able to tighten it properly if its that bad. Now Im hoping i can run to the dealership this week (wont have another free day till friday) and pick up a drain plug , but i wanted to know, as far as taking it off, at this point is it ok to grab some pliers or vise grips? What is best method to get a slightly stripped oil drain plug off? Also does it have anything to do with my wrenches, I hear people talk about how many points they have, i never understood it, but i assume it has something to do with how many sides it has. HELP IF POSSIBLE!

[RningOnFumes]

Wow, how badly stripped?...I usually turn to the socket when I get hindered by stripped bolts and such. But that's what you used first.
As far as "many points"... you can try using a combination wrench on it.... find the kind that grip at the sides and not at a bolt's corners.. Try using a regular one first.
Once you get it off and it's drained, poke your pinky up there and clear any debris made from the bolt.

[masteryota1]

well it must be stripped pretty darn bad, either that or its not a 14mm bolt. (it was my first time trying this on this car, i didnt try any other sizes) I tried the socket, then i tried the combination wrench on both sides, the one that got to closest to even moving the bolt before slipping was the open ended one. Im guessing im going to have to vise grip it, or take it to a shop and have them change oil, and replace plug at same time, but i really want to do this myself. somebody told me the plug at dealership is like 6.50 or something like that, Makes me wish i had of went on and ordered that fumoto valve thing a while back, instead of trying to make my first oil change a basic job lol.

[greggf]

If it is really stripped (just going around and around) you need to apply downward pressure to remove it while turning. In this case, you will need something that will grab it like visegrips while turning it out. I suspect you will need to tap for a larger drain bolt.

[Heat]

Originally Posted by greggf

If it is really stripped (just going around and around) you need to apply downward pressure to remove it while turning...

Have your arm in a garbage bag or something similar when you do this so you don't get oil all over yourself.

[desentrix]

^ hot oil :P

[Kep]

Please clarify. Is the wrench turning round and round the head of the drain plug (and the plug is not moving) or is the drain plug turning round and round in the oil pan and not coming out? If the plug is turning inside the oil pan fitting and not coming out it could be the plug is stripped (not too bad) or that the oil pan fitting threads are stripped (a new plug may not be any different than the old plug). If it is the wrench spinning around the plug then the rest of this post probably won't apply. The vice grips will get it and the new plug will go back in just fine. (don't over tighten)

Like you said, go get a new drain plug first so that you will have it. Make sure you also get a new gasket. Vice grips on the old plug will be fine but like Heat suggested, it will likely be sloppy (not due to the vice grips, due to the plug not coming out quickly if the threads are stripped). I would go ahead and do this with a cold engine. Your main concern now is to fix the plug, not to do a perfect oil change.

While you are unscrewing the plug with the vice grips you may need to pull down at the same time if the threads are damaged. It may even be necessary to slide a flat blade screw driver between the pan and the plug flange and twist to apply downward pressure on the plug while turning it.

If the threads in the pan turn out to be damaged the new plug may not screw back in or may not be able to be tightened. I believe that I have seen "repair" kits at auto parts stores. If you wind up using a sealant, use one that is O2 Sensor approved. Silicone based sealants can cause damage to O2 Sensors.

Luck,
Kep

[BMR]

I think masteryota1 is saying the hex head on the drain plug is so rounded off that a wrench/socket can't get a grip on it.

In that case, like Kep said, get yourself a new drain plug (and washer, while you're at it) before you remove the old one. And yeah, just use a vise grip, channel-locks, or whatever to get 'er out.

Also, you might be able to get a new plug at any auto parts store, but I'd wanna have the old one in-hand to be sure I got the correct replacement.

[Hajoca]

You are going to need a 12mm x 1.25 threaded bolt/plug.

[Heat]

As a worst case scenario… It’s looking like the OEM oil pan will run about $160 with gasket / new plug included. Aftermarket would be about $80 or $90. Parts only of course, but it would be an easy enough job to do. Honestly, I'd personally just replace the whole pan rather than try to rethread the plug.

And don't forget to put on a new crush washer each time you change the oil.

[DressUpYourPet]

Just clamp the vice grips on there really good and bang the end of the vice grips with hammer, or better yet tap it, and it might come out. if you have to drill it out do so but not before you get the new plug obviously. If you have to drill use a way smaller drill bit than the hole, take care not to damage your pan threads above all. Use progressively larger drill bits (try working the plug out in between each size) and you can get the plug out.

It was probably stripped by some moron at jiffy lube or by a past owner and not because of your choice of wrenches. I've stripped plenty of nuts and bolts but never a drain plug, and thats because i always do my own oil. If you have to use every bit of strength you have to get the plug out it means you put it in too tight last time so, tighten only with a box end wrench not a big old 1/2" socket wrench handle. Use a torque wrench if you have it and this wont happen again.

[Hajoca]

An option is to use an over size drain plug after you remove the current one and re-thread (Drill then Tap) or the aprts store sell the piggy back Drain plug repair kits with a large plug hole cutter/threader that has a new drain bolt on the cutter that is left on the pan.

[anti-seize]

Heat has a good point, although I'd probably get one for $10 out of a pull-it-yourself junkyard. Having a replacement pan, drain bolt, and new gasket ready should virtually eliminate the need to round up a ride to pick up something when things go foobar.

That being said, all you may need is a new bolt and maybe a tap to clean the threads.

In other news, that washer is "crushable", and needs to be replaced? I've never done that before. Ever.

[Kep]

I recommended a new washer because I figured a new one would require the least amount of torque to seal to the new plug. Not knowing if his threads were damaged I figured that would be a minimal cost for a maximum return.

Like you anti-seize, I hardly ever change these out. Though I believe that I read in the manual that you should change them each time.

So, Masteryota1, how about an update?

Kep

[TRD_EarBanger]

Having a replacement pan, drain bolt, and new gasket ready should virtually eliminate the need to round up a ride to pick up something when things go foobar.

Good thinking, as a matter of fact i have a replacement engine hanging on the hoist waiting to be dropped in as we speak. My old engine runs great but you never know when you will have to whip an engine in for no reason except maybe you dont like the color of the old one