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3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001 Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 04-03-2008, 07:11 AM   #1 (permalink)
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GEN3 Starting Problem - Getting worse

Hi all,

I have a Australian built 94 Camry 2.2 5sfe with an automatic transmission.

I am having a peculiar problem with my car. It used to start first time every time after a little more than 2-3 seconds of cranking. Lately, it has needed cranking for more than 30 seconds before the car will start.

The problem was only occuring in the mornings, but now that it is a little colder, it is happening in the afternoons also.

Once started, the car runs fine (although it seems to idle very low until the accelerator is pushed for the first time)

Any help is greatly appreciated.
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Old 04-03-2008, 07:54 AM   #2 (permalink)
How hard can it be?
 
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When was the last time you had your plugs/plug wires/distributor serviced? Maybe you need to run some seafoam through a vacuum line and clean your engine out a little.
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Old 04-03-2008, 05:49 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Check the resistance of the engine coolant temperature sensor (the one that feeds the ECU). It's under a green plastic connector located on a coolant port, to the right side of the cylinder head, as you are standing in front of the engine. It might be out of range and not telling the ECU that the engine is cold. You will need a DVM and the specs from any manual to do this.

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Old 04-04-2008, 06:27 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Thanks for your replies. The plugs were changed with OEM spec about 3 months or 10000km ago. We don't get seafoam in australia.

Is the "engine coolant temperature sensor" the same thing as the thermostat? That was changed at the end of last year. If not, will any mechanic have a DVM? or do i need to go to someone special?. (DVM doesn't stand for digital volt meter does it?)
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Old 04-04-2008, 07:40 AM   #5 (permalink)
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The thermostat and engine coolant temp. sensor are two different things. Your mechanic will have a digital volt meter (you were correct)
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Old 04-04-2008, 09:55 AM   #6 (permalink)
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If you are going to take it in to a mechanic you might want to ask him/her how much they'd charge to do some preventative maintenance. The Trilogy comes to mind (clean the throttle body, the IAC Valve and the EGR system). These are things that you can do yourself if you're willing but a mechanic can also (though they will usually replace the EGR Valve and IAC Valve so they don't have a warranty claim later).

If you're willing to work on the car do some searches on the forum and there are several threads on each of these and how to clean them. If you have any questions someone here can usually help. It isn't rocket science but it does take time and patience. Plus, when you're done, you know that it has been done to your satisfaction. Your Camry is old enough to deserve some special attention.

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Old 04-04-2008, 07:23 PM   #7 (permalink)
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"(DVM doesn't stand for digital volt meter does it?)"

Yes it does.

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Old 04-06-2008, 04:01 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Thanks for all your replies guys. I really really appreciate it.

The mechanic i went to said that he could check it without a problem, but he needed to know what the resistance was..... This didn't make sense to me, because how can you check resistance with a volt meter?

Anyways, a further, (more annoying) development has taken place. My car is dual fuel (converted after market) with LPG and Petrol. It seems that the problem in starting is because the car is not getting a supply of petrol. Let me explain:

I have a switch inside the car to flip it from LPG to Petrol. If i flip the switch while the car is started, it should normally switch without me noticing it. Normally, it does, but I just tried it today, and out the 15 or so times that i tried to flip it, 2 times, the car just stalled.

I'm now more confused than ever. Anyone have ANY tips, i know LPG is not that common for our cars... but still?

Sorry about the long post.
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Old 04-06-2008, 11:55 AM   #9 (permalink)
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"The mechanic i went to said that he could check it without a problem, but he needed to know what the resistance was..... This didn't make sense to me, because how can you check resistance with a volt meter? "

They are usually referred to as digital volt/ohmeters. They can check for ohms too. Ohms are a measurement of resistance. As the temperature drops, the resistance of your engine coolant temperature goes up. This tells the car's computer to enrich the fuel mixture to facillitate starting a cold or cool engine. Your mechanic should have access to some form of online manual to get the specs. If he doesn't have access to one, you or he can go to www.camrystuff.com and download the manual there for your car.

Sorry I can't answer your LP gas switch question. I have no experience with LP conversions.

Mike
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Old 04-06-2008, 02:33 PM   #10 (permalink)
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4th Generation

Quote:
Originally Posted by unkit View Post
Hi all,

I have a Australian built 94 Camry 2.2 5sfe with an automatic transmission.

I am having a peculiar problem with my car. It used to start first time every time after a little more than 2-3 seconds of cranking. Lately, it has needed cranking for more than 30 seconds before the car will start.

The problem was only occuring in the mornings, but now that it is a little colder, it is happening in the afternoons also.

Once started, the car runs fine (although it seems to idle very low until the accelerator is pushed for the first time)

Any help is greatly appreciated.
souns like you may need a starter. From what you are saying it sounds like the part in the started that connect with the flexplate or flywheel is sticking which would explain the 30 second start time. It should take around 2 to 3 seconds. I would recommend checking you battery voltage first to see if you have a sufficent charge. If that is good, then you might need a starter as it is sticking.
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Old 04-07-2008, 04:42 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Thank you guys so much for all your help. It was a stupid relay. Cost $12 and an hour of the auto electricians time.
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Old 04-07-2008, 03:16 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Which relay was causing the problem? I'm guessing it was the fuel pump relay.

Mike
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Old 04-11-2008, 06:32 AM   #13 (permalink)
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No, like all the other problems i've had with this car..... it was all the LPG. It was the relay that changed power from petrol to LPG when i flicked the switch.
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Old 04-11-2008, 01:47 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unkit View Post
No, like all the other problems i've had with this car..... it was all the LPG. It was the relay that changed power from petrol to LPG when i flicked the switch.
Thanks for responding.

Mike
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