Replacing front brake rotors - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

importcar · 04-03-2008, 10:06 PM

Do I need any special tools for the job? I have a 3/8" drive wrench, a set of sockets and screwdrivers. Do I need anything else?

I'm getting Satisfied Pro Ceramic Pads and Brembo Replacement Rotors from Tirerack.com. Is this a good combo?

dorifuto.boi · 04-03-2008, 10:07 PM

you need an impact wrench.
breaker bars won't fit
regular stuff doesn't have enough torque.

you need a can of wd40

you need a c clamp to clamp the piston back into the caliper so that your brake pads will fit if they come really thick like mine did.

i got the brenbo slotted replacements with brembo performacne pads so i dunno

should take you like 10 minutes for each side.

importcar · 04-03-2008, 10:11 PM

Thanks for the quick reply. What is the impact wrench for?

dorifuto.boi · 04-03-2008, 10:12 PM

to get the bolts off. i have an electric one.
you can try a breaker bar if yuu want but i doubt it'll fit unless ur car is lifted really high.
cause i think i tried mine and it didn't fit

try it out. spray some wd40 on the bolts and see if you can get them off with ur regular tools. if they're on too tight and yuu can't get them off, then yuu need an impact wrench

oh sorry man i missed something.
you could just use a wrench and just hammer the wrench to losen the bolt

importcar · 04-03-2008, 10:18 PM

Thanks for the tip. I'll try it with a hammer first.

Kep · 04-04-2008, 10:33 AM

I understand that if you have ABS brakes you don't want to compress the brake cylinders and force the fluid back into the system. Open the bleeder valve and let the fluid out at the cylinder. A looped hose on the bleeder connection keeps you from allowing air into the system.

If you have an older car without the ABS system using the C clamp to force the cylinders open and letting the fluid back into the master cylinder reservoir is OK.

Kep

John5516 · 04-04-2008, 10:35 AM

Ya that bracket bolt is a Bi*ch to get off. I had someone very big to help me with that part. Once you get that off its pretty easy, I would recommend a breaker bar or something really long to get those two bolts off.

ghettosled · 04-04-2008, 10:53 AM

slip a cheater bar (long metal pipe like a section of gas pipe) onto the end of your socket wrench. works like a charm for me!

bigbird · 04-04-2008, 11:21 AM

second that, ive never used an impace wrench. if ya have acess to one it makes it easier though.

Mike Gerber · 04-04-2008, 07:35 PM

You won't need an impact wrench, but a good breaker bar or a cheater bar over your socket wrench will probably be necessary. I would suggest 1/2 drive tools. The 2 bolts holding the caliper to the caliper mounting bracket should be 14MM hex heads. Then you have to remove the caliper mounting bracket. Those 2 bolts should be 17MM hex heads. Then you will need 2 screws about 2 inches long to thread into the 2 holes on the old rotor, to lever it off. I believe those 2 screws are M8 X 1.25 thread pitch. If a c-clamp is not available to push the piston all the way back in to the caliper, an old brake pad and a pair of channel locks should be sufficient.

Mike

importcar · 04-06-2008, 02:30 AM

Thanks for all replies. Looks like I'll need more tools. What size c clamp do I need?

Are the pads too thin? How does the rotor look?

chullen · 04-06-2008, 11:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kep

I understand that if you have ABS brakes you don't want to compress the brake cylinders and force the fluid back into the system. Open the bleeder valve and let the fluid out at the cylinder. A looped hose on the bleeder connection keeps you from allowing air into the system.

If you have an older car without the ABS system using the C clamp to force the cylinders open and letting the fluid back into the master cylinder reservoir is OK.

Kep

No, you can push the fluid back in be ok. Just make sure that when you are all done you check the fluid level. Also do compress one caliper at a time.

Mike Gerber · 04-06-2008, 11:40 AM

At least a 4 inch c-clamp. Pads look a bit worn. Rotors look normal, but it's impossible to tell their thickness (whether there is enough meat left so they can be turned when new pads are installed) and if there is any warpage from a picture. Do you feel and pulsation on the brake pedal when braking, especially at highway speeds?

Mike

importcar · 04-06-2008, 12:20 PM

No pulsation during braking but they make a lot of noise. I think it's the wear sensors. The pads were replaced and the rotors were turned at 60K miles at the dealer. My car has 110K now.

Hajoca · 04-06-2008, 12:29 PM

Pads look worn, If I am not mistaken, that little tab is part of the pad's metal backing.\You see the little lines on the rotor face? those are spots where the inner ribs are for heat dissipation, and those may be mistaken by some as hard spots. Hard spots have a bluish/purplish discolouration.

The only way to see if the rotor needs replacing due to wear is by measuring the thickness cast onto the rotor hat. The things of vibration/pulsing that Mike describes are another reason to machine (turn) or replace the rotor, but has more to do with driving/braking history, like frequent hard stops, and so on.

Pinch the brake hose and then open the bleed screw to compress piston wether you have ABS or not.