how to unscrew (disassemble) the Camshaft Timing Pulleys? - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums


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3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001 Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 04-16-2008, 04:05 PM   #1 (permalink)
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how to unscrew (disassemble) the Camshaft Timing Pulleys?

Hi. I just whant to know how to disassemble the two camshaft Timing Pulleys on a 3VZ-FE engine. We know that when the timing belt is taked off, than the pulleys can be moved. And thats the problem how to unscrew the bolt that is in the midlle of the pulley? how can I hold up the pulley to unscerw this bolt and take the pulley off?

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Old 04-16-2008, 04:13 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Old 04-16-2008, 04:15 PM   #3 (permalink)
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If you look behind the pulley you can see to holes for two bolts on each side. You can stick to bolts there and take the bolt on the pulley out
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Old 04-16-2008, 10:11 PM   #4 (permalink)
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There is a hex shaped portion on the cams, use a crescent wrench and brace it against something other than the head. The aluminum is weak and can break if the wrench rests on it.

Also don't forget to put a bolt in the exhaust cam's scissor gear. Re-tensioning that gear is a pain!
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1992 Camry XLE v6: p&p + 3angle, CAI, y pipe, K-Sport coilovers, 5-speed swap
1996 Eagle Talon TSI AWD: IPT 3700 restall, DSMlink v3, HKS exhaust, ETS street fmic kit
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Old 04-17-2008, 07:11 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luckynumber5 View Post
Also don't forget to put a bolt in the exhaust cam's scissor gear. Re-tensioning that gear is a pain!
OK, but this I will do after I take the cylinder head covers? yes? to unscrew the nut on the pulley I don't heve to do that? is it so?
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Old 04-17-2008, 08:31 AM   #6 (permalink)
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If you are not removing the cams you do not have to put a bolt in the exhaust camshaft's scissor gear
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1992 Camry XLE v6: p&p + 3angle, CAI, y pipe, K-Sport coilovers, 5-speed swap
1996 Eagle Talon TSI AWD: IPT 3700 restall, DSMlink v3, HKS exhaust, ETS street fmic kit
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Old 04-17-2008, 01:58 PM   #7 (permalink)
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ughh im not sure

for the RH head, i let my cresecent wrench rest up on the upperfirewall where these is metal, and protected with a block of wood.

on the LH head, i am at a loss, i have personally above average muscle forces, and used doubled up wrenches and still couldn't do it. problem is also there is no where safe to rest the crescent wrench up against, and also that the hex flats on the camshaft are FAR from the pulley which makes it harder to put good leverage on it.
J_Phu, i am not sure if I could stick two bolts in between the camshaft pulley spokes, because i think the bolts might break. are you sure the method works safely?
anyone have any input for me, camry-rules, and anyone that stumbles on this thread
????????
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Old 04-17-2008, 02:40 PM   #8 (permalink)
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yeah- I place a big wrench and lie it across the side of the frame of the car and across the valve cover if I remember correctly, and then use that as a point to rest the crescent wrench

then a socket wrench + a breaker bar and we're good...

I've got well over average muscle strength as well, but I don't think that it's possible to do it without using body leverage....
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Old 04-17-2008, 03:07 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Cool

haha i didnt mean to brag, i was showing how hard it was even with leverage.

anyway, i just literally invented a method , all by myself and im so proud :>

it works perfectly, i cant believe no one thought of this before or sooner.
you gotta see this, and spread the word, this method works so well, i would hate to see anyone go through my hell to figure this one out!

PS you can't rest the wrench against anything for doing the front head [i.e. LH head] if you're trying to remove the timing belt inner cover [i.e. "no 3 timing belt cover], liek i am, and i dont see how resting it on the rear [i.e. RH head] valve cover is safe [cracking-wise] and if you have it off then it's not doable, like i have it off. but this awesome thing i tried makes all of this moot.

everyone check this out

















so i put two crescent wrenches on, tied them like pictured with 14 gauge electrical wire, tied around about 5 times, tied into a square knot then put a 17 mm wrench on the pulley bolt, then another wrench on that, then a pipe on all that, and then push gently more and more. a good idea to stick some wood or rubber on both sides of the head where the crescent wnreches would hit on the periphery to protect the soft al-alloy. worked like a charm. the c-wrenches want to go away from each other, not past each other. the wire makes them unable ! always wear goggles and live long and prosper
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Old 04-17-2008, 05:52 PM   #10 (permalink)
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^ lol...no, I was just agreeing with you to hit home the point about how tight they are...


as for your method...I think that's actually what they suggest for you to do in the haynes manual. but I think that's overboard of having to take the valve cover off just to do a timing belt change.


as for your issue...I see the problem now...

it's a lot easier to take the bolts off the campulleys when the belt is still on...that way you don't get the timing all mixed up somehow.

what I do is- with the belt still on, so I can turn the pulleys however I like, I jam my crescent wrench against the front rad support and then it stays for whatever is needed....

I guess you're trying to do the work without a crescent wrench? that's tough....it was the first thing that I picked up before tackling my first tb change
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Old 04-17-2008, 07:51 PM   #11 (permalink)
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well i do what you do, when i dont take off the valve covers and do what i was going which was more than just a timing belt job. the person above was more like my situation so my advice applies to people like him .
but your advice is exactly right : break lose the camshaft bolts while the belt is still on by putting the transmission in gear, and doing one of several ways to use the wheels as an opposing force. again, when just doing a timingbelt related.

the valve covers are frusturating [unless you're already doing that]. so in the end, that special tool they sell might be useful, that special camhaft pulley tool. but anyway, leaving the belt on is still the easiest way. learned that on my last v6 car.

i didnt know my method [with the two adj wrenches etc] was in haynes... i really should get one, probably save me a ton of time... just annoys me to have a lexus , and buy a toyota manual, and not only that, one with different versions of the engine... which naturally gets confused by the authors once and a while... not sure im confortable w/ that. heh
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Old 04-19-2008, 10:33 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Longer screws used to hold pulley in place worked fine, shouldn't have doubted your advice, "J_phu."
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Old 04-20-2008, 11:03 PM   #13 (permalink)
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unfortunately, i cant use the screws because when putting hte timing belt on the RH pulley, i cant set to the mark.

so, in my situation, what can I do to set the mark for the RH cam ?

edit: i guess i will have to pull the cam cover off again, and stick an adj wrench on there ....

DAMN IT

:<
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Old 04-21-2008, 01:54 AM   #14 (permalink)
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^ werd....

I just did a timing belt on a 1mz today and I noticed that as well, despite my lack of intention to do it since I had a c-spanner wrench anyway

and I would also worry about snapping the bolts as well, since they aren't exactly a sturdy size, nor deep threaded holes since their original intention is just to hold the timing belt rear cover on
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Old 04-21-2008, 09:27 AM   #15 (permalink)
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so how did you hold the thing still when doing the belt installation, as in, you realize what I was talking about ...

???

you used the proper tool mentioned in the manual?? what is like 30 bucks? where can you get one, quickly??
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