Ignitor info?

[davs95]

My camry set a 1300 code for the ignitor. I followed the flow chart of things to check for on the 1mz engine out of the factory manuals. The end result said to replace the ignitor. My doubt is that I have spark at every coil. Does the ignitor have other jobs it does than just provide spark? Any help would be appericated. Thanks

[toyomoho]

The igniter has a feedback system to the computer telling it a coil has fired. The code is stating there is problem with this circuit. Other issues could be the wiring between the igniter can computer.

Do you have a spark at every plug? What year of car?

[davs95]

Thanks for the reply. I have a 95 camry with the 1-mz engine. There is spark at every plug. The story is a guy I work with owned this car and had to have the heads redone do to the engine smoking. After the head were rebuilt the car would not run again. After several months of trying to get this fixed he finally gave up on it and let it just sit for about a year. That brings us to where we are now he told me I could have it if I would just come and get it. I'm an ase cert master tech. but unfortanlly don't work with toyota's. I hooked up my scan tool and got code 1300. I followed factory troubleshooting flow chart for both these codes which included checking for open or shorted wires from the igintor to the emc and to the injectors everything tested ok. I looked at the car again yesterday i erased all codes and tried to start the engine again it will crank and try to start but will only run at about 700rpm for about 5 sec and dies if you try to give it any gas it dies sooner. after letting it do this about 20-25 times I tried to read the codes again and this time there were no codes found system passed. I have double checked the timing marks and they are correct. Any suggestions???

[davs95]

I forgot to mention that I have done a leak down and compression test and they are good. Thanks

[Kep]

Going with the trouble code, my first choice would be to find a running 95 Camry and put your igniter into it. If the test car still ran it would exonerate your igniter. If it did the same thing as yours then you would be confident your igniter was bad. (I prefer that to putting the known good igniter in your car so you would be confident that you wouldn't inadvertently damage the good igniter which you would have to replace.) My next choice would be to get a replacement igniter from a junk yard. If your car runs differently (granted the used igniter might be bad but I would think it unlikely that it would have the same problem as yours) it would suggest that your igniter was the problem. Of course, if it ran OK then your igniter was bad, the used one was good, and you fixed the problem.

If that doesn't work, you might try the same routine with the your ECM in the test car (with its original igniter).

Just a random thought, the car runs briefly. Long enough for an electric component to over heat? (Though that doesn't explain why giving it gas would stall it out.)

Without the trouble code I might lean more toward the cold start circuit and/or fuel supply.

I can't see why whatever necessitated the rebuild would cause the igniter to start throwing a trouble code. Do you know what led to the engine smoking?

How many miles on the car?

Luck,
Kep

[davs95]

Kep, Thanks for the reply. The heads were rebuilt before I got involed with this project so I'm not sure of the entire situation there. The car has 166,xxx miles on it. It had codes at first I ran the flow chart list it said to replace ignitor and ecm. I cleared the codes now there are no codes but the car will still not start. I think I will follow you sugguestion and look into the cold start circuit and fuel supply I did have to put a new ful pump on it due to the fact the old new locked up. I will see if I can find a used ignitor and ecm to try. Thanks