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3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001 Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 05-03-2008, 11:13 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Front Exhaust Pipe; 92 Camry V6

I have a small hole in the front pipe that comes right off the exhaust manifolds(the flex braided loking thing).

Someone tried to weld it before but the hole is their again.
Is their a way to fix this without buying a new one?

Robert
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Old 05-04-2008, 10:12 PM   #2 (permalink)
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There is no way I know of to weld shut the hole. It will just come back somewhere else in that section. That pipe has to be completely flexible to allow the engine to rock forward and back as the engine torques. A muffler shop can cut out that flex pipe and weld in a new aftermarket one for around $150. The flex pipe is not available separately at Toyota dealers.

Mike
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Old 05-05-2008, 09:06 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Mike Gerber View Post
There is no way I know of to weld shut the hole. It will just come back somewhere else in that section. That pipe has to be completely flexible to allow the engine to rock forward and back as the engine torques. A muffler shop can cut out that flex pipe and weld in a new aftermarket one for around $150. The flex pipe is not available separately at Toyota dealers.

Mike

Could you point me to a good aftermarket flex pipe? Id appreciate it.

Robert
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Old 05-05-2008, 11:56 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Old 05-05-2008, 12:18 PM   #5 (permalink)
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If Mike knows an aftermarket piece for $150, Id buy that for peace of mind. The stock one costs $400, so it's worth it.
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Old 05-05-2008, 11:37 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Go to any muffler shop and they should have one or can order one for your car and have it in a day or two. That $150 price included cutting out the old flex pipe and welding the new aftermarket one in. I recently had it done to my 94 Camry 4 cylinder. I use an independant muffler shop, but any of the chains (Midas, Meineke, Car-X, etc) should be able to do the same thing. Just call around or stop by and ask. Tell them you need a new flex pipe installed to replace the OEM one that has rusted out. This is a common repair.

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Old 05-10-2008, 10:19 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Mike Gerber View Post
Go to any muffler shop and they should have one or can order one for your car and have it in a day or two. That $150 price included cutting out the old flex pipe and welding the new aftermarket one in. I recently had it done to my 94 Camry 4 cylinder. I use an independant muffler shop, but any of the chains (Midas, Meineke, Car-X, etc) should be able to do the same thing. Just call around or stop by and ask. Tell them you need a new flex pipe installed to replace the OEM one that has rusted out. This is a common repair.

Mike
thanks. The local muffler shop told me it's a special part and they run $400 from toyota.

Guess I ought to ask another shop then.
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Old 05-11-2008, 12:29 AM   #8 (permalink)
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yup, get a new one, or as they have stated before go to a muffler shop have them fix it.

Your exhaust pipes have to be clear of bumps, holes, cracks, and any other crap that would damage the pipes. If there are things like that in there your gas millage wont be so hot.
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Old 05-11-2008, 11:26 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Rob_0126 View Post
thanks. The local muffler shop told me it's a special part and they run $400 from toyota.

Guess I ought to ask another shop then.

Yes, go to another shop. The aftermarket ones are much cheaper. I would even try a Midas or Meineke, if you have them in your area. This is a fairly common repair to these cars.

Mike
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Old 08-15-2009, 07:45 AM   #10 (permalink)
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A number of the post in this thread refer to welding, but isn't this a bolt on fix? It appears that a new pipe for $129 has flanges that just bolt on to the existing system. Is there more to it than what meets eye?

http://www.ioffer.com/i/1992-1993-To...51011-59663876
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Old 08-15-2009, 11:00 AM   #11 (permalink)
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A number of the post in this thread refer to welding, but isn't this a bolt on fix? It appears that a new pipe for $129 has flanges that just bolt on to the existing system. Is there more to it than what meets eye?

http://www.ioffer.com/i/1992-1993-To...51011-59663876
Wow, that is cheap and you are correct. This part appears to require just bolting it on (with new gaskets at the connections), instead of cutting out just the flex section and rewelding in a new aftermarket piece. Are you going to try this part on your car? It would be interesting to try it and report back in a couple of years on how well it's holding up.

Mike
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Old 08-15-2009, 11:20 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Mike Gerber View Post
Wow, that is cheap and you are correct. This part appears to require just bolting it on (with new gaskets at the connections), instead of cutting out just the flex section and rewelding in a new aftermarket piece. Are you going to try this part on your car? It would be interesting to try it and report back in a couple of years on how well it's holding up.

Mike
Mike,

I just was under the car for an oil drain and looked at the pipes going up to the header. I think it would be easier to disconnect the front from above by removing the heat shield just above the oil filter. As for disconnecting the pipe from the rear header, I have to figure out a way to reach it. Maybe removing the plenum and working from above.

I will search around, there has to be a DIY around here or somewhere on the net.

It appears that I may be lucky as I do not really see any rust build up around the connections with the exception to the connection to the CAT.
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Old 08-15-2009, 05:29 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Mike,

I just was under the car for an oil drain and looked at the pipes going up to the header. I think it would be easier to disconnect the front from above by removing the heat shield just above the oil filter. As for disconnecting the pipe from the rear header, I have to figure out a way to reach it. Maybe removing the plenum and working from above.

I will search around, there has to be a DIY around here or somewhere on the net.

It appears that I may be lucky as I do not really see any rust build up around the connections with the exception to the connection to the CAT.
A good penetrating oil like PB Blaster can be your best friend on jobs like this. A torch, if one is available, is an even better option; even though I not a big fan of using one while under the car on your back. It's just not safe IMHO.

Mike
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Old 08-15-2009, 07:36 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I took another look at where it attaches to the manifold and the rear manifold won't be too difficult to work with from below and I will go with working from the top on the front.

The bolts that attach it look a little different (can't really describe it) so I hope there is no issue there (special tool). I still haven't come across anyone that has posted a DIY pictorial.

The pipe that is on it now is encased in heat shield that is in sections and appears to be removable. At 143K in northern Ohio weather, I would think it is not the original, but not sure.

If my CAT needed to be replaced, would the CE light come on? I am trying to keep cost down and don't want to replace it if it is not needed.
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Old 08-15-2009, 09:56 PM   #15 (permalink)
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"If my CAT needed to be replaced, would the CE light come on?"

Probably, but check for codes just to be sure. All it takes is a paper clip or a piece of wire and the instructions from any manual to check.

Mike
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