Is there a way to adjust brake pedal travel, 95 camry

[justin_o]

Yes, one more question please. I've been feeling some mushiness and increased travel in my brakes (even after the pads were replaced) so just to be sure I bled my brake lines. This DID improve the pressure under braking but the pedal still has way too much travel before the pads engage the rotor. What do I need to do to reduce the amount of travel?

Thanks!

[Dave's]

If it's truly mushy then you may need to replace the fluid. If they just seem to go down too far, try adjusting the rear brakes. Some of us don't use the E-brake which is used to keep them adjusted so the pedal has to travel further to work. (Think the E-brake should only click 6-8 times when being set.) Beyond that it could be your master cylinder needs to be bled or replaced. Also, it could be one of the flexible lines is swelling. If this is happening tho, it's just a matter of time before it bursts. (Above is JMHO) Sure others will chime in if I'm mistaken.

[uibalnme]

My e-brake clicks 2-3 times to lock the rear brakes. 6-8 clicks sounds like a bit much(to me at least). I've always had my e-brake set to 3 clicks at the most after I change the rear shoes. When it gets to 6 I know half the shoes are gone. At 8 clicks I would change the shoes again, but that's just me. Anyway, I agree that you should replace all of the old brake fluid. Also, are your rotors/drums still within spec? If not, they could be too thin. You should have those replaced at the next brake job or a.s.a.p. whichever your buget will allow.

[justin_o]

When I bled my brake lines I didn't do replace all the fluid. I got maybe 16 oz. of fluid out of the brake system, so quite a lot but I don't believe all of it.

My e-brake (which I use whenever I park out of habit) clicks upwards of 8 times when I press it down to get a firm engagement.

The pads on the car have all been replace recently. I believe the front rotors are new (2 years) though I'm not sure about the rear rotors.

So it cold be: 1) I didn't get all air out of the system, 2) The rear brakes need adjusting, 3) My brake lines are getting old and are bulging, or 4) A combination of the former.

Thanks for the tips. I guess the easiest thing for me to start with is do a complete bleed of the brake lines. I'm getting my service manual in the mail soon so I'll be able to find out more details about the camry's brake system.

[hooRAH]

Justin,

Air in the brake lines is a common cause of brake pedal softness when you've replaced a line, caliper, or MC, but I've never seen it just "pop up" out of nowhere. Are you bleeding your brakes with a pressure bleeder?

Bleeding brakes is a walk in the park and cheap, so always do that as a first step, but I don't expect it will solve your problem (actually, your first post indicates you've already flushed them).

You mentioned rear rotors - does your car have 4whl discs? Most Camries don't, and un-adjusted drums is a common cause of brake softness.

Another cause of brake softness is pads worn at an angle due to improperly lubed brake hardware, but if the front pads have just been replaced, I doubt this has happened already.

Last thing that comes to mind is the threaded rod adjustment between the brake MC and the brake booster, but that would be more of a 'pedal travel before engagement" than a soft pedal.

One thing you can test - pull the parking brake up 80% of the way that you would to hold the car in place (or just barely off). Then, drive around and try stepping on the brakes. IF the pedal has firmed up, your rear shoes need adjustment. If you have 4wheel discs, nothing should change here.

[camrtm3]

If all of what the others have said fails....then that last thing is the MC is failing. Doesn't happen often, but it does happen. I had the same issue with my 96 V6 two years ago, and the final thing we did was replace the MC. It fixed the problem, but I lost 1 grand in parts and repair, cause the first newbie techs didnt lub the cal. after trying 3 different after market MC and spraying brake fluid everywhere.

[Hajoca]

I have replaced the flex lines with SS braided hose on my car.

Camrys have a lot of pedal travel until the brakes grab. If you hold down the brake and the pedal continues to sink, then the Master Cylinder is leaking (usually the seals) A rebuildt unit would be fine.

[Kep]

If you have standard brakes then all of the above. If you have ABS brakes check into the bleeding procedure more. It takes a special procedure.

Kep

[Achilles Heel]

I've gone through this exact issue on my 99 camry. After alot of trouble shooting, master cylinder replacement, new drums/shoes/rotors/pad, new brake lines and full bleeding of the system I still had a long brake pedal travel - but when it caught the braking was strong. No mush.

Turned out to be the caliper pins and bushing. Apparently over time they fail close up the caliper properly forcing the brake piston to travel further to press pad on the rotor. Once these were replaced brakes worked like new. Going to take a little getting used to........

[JohnGD]

If your brakes are properly adjusted then they should engage with little pedal travel. Light pressure may not stop the car, but you should feel the brakes engaging.

Now suppose you're sure the brakes are properly adjusted and there is no air after you bled the system. Then I would be concerned that your primary master cylinder cup has gone bad (now you're using only the secondary backup circuit). With engine off, work off the vacuum reserve by repeated pumping the pedal. Then with light foot pressure step on the brake pedal. If you notice the pedal gradually sinks towards the floor then you may have a leaking master cylinder.

Also, if you rapidly pump the pedal, will it firm up and hold? With air in the system it will. But if the cup is leaking, it won't.

Originally Posted by justin_o

Yes, one more question please. I've been feeling some mushiness and increased travel in my brakes (even after the pads were replaced) so just to be sure I bled my brake lines. This DID improve the pressure under braking but the pedal still has way too much travel before the pads engage the rotor. What do I need to do to reduce the amount of travel?

Thanks!