HELP having a hard time cranking the Camry... - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

JayMax03 · 05-20-2008, 11:46 AM

OK!! So for the last week or so I had some trouble cranking up my car but it does crank up. It always happen during the mourning around 7AM or at 11PM at night or later. I initially thought it was the starter since the first it didn't crank I can't hear the starter grind. Now the situation is getting worse and irritating. I use my remote starter and after 2 or 3 trys the engine turns over. If I stick the key in and turn the ignition it would take me 8 trys to get it started. So one of the questions I wanted to ask is could that be the starter going out or is that the solenoid switch? THe second question is how can you tell if the starter or solenoid switch is going out is it just like I said earlier?

I disabled all of my audio equipment in the Camry to make sure that didn't have anything to do with it and the result is still the same...

After reading a couple of threads on TN I came to figure if it ain't the starter or the switch could it be the spark plugs also? I've already ordered a starter off eBay so whether if I'm right or wrong I did it just to be on the safe side since the boneyards in this town are charging $60 and up for a used starter even if I pulled it out myself they're still charging that much for the starter.

Now I just got through reading a thread that Nuron made about the troubles he's having, but the only problem with that is my car never dies the beginning is just right but I never had the car shut-down. The idle is 800 RPM when it gets hot and that another thing it doing that when its cold. When its hot I don't have a problem with it at all...

One of these does I might just have to record the whole thing on camera then upload it on TN just to see what I'm talking about. I know I'm know not making a whole lotta sense here, and I sorry for that, but I don't won't my Camry to die yet so could some1 HELP ME?? I don't know how long that will last and the starter from ebay should be arriving next week. BTW if any1s asking I got the starter off ebay for $37 including shipping.

Kep · 05-20-2008, 04:53 PM

Let's get our terminology the same and we'll go from there. "Crank" and "turn over" mean the same. When you turn the key (normally) the engine will crank for a few seconds and then start. When it isn't working you may crank the engine over 10 or 20 seconds and it still might not start. Or you may turn the key and it doesn't crank at all.

I believe that you are turning the key and the engine doesn't crank at all. When you turn the key do you hear one click and then nothing? Do you hear anything while the key is turned?

Just for fun, check your battery cables, make sure they are clean and tight. If it still doesn't crank gently tap the starter with a wrench or hammer. If it starts up after tapping it your starter contacts are probably going bad. This also is often effective if you hear one click after turning the key (again, bad contacts). That being the case, your replacement starter should take care of your problem. If it is a used starter I will give you 40% odds that it too is broken. So if it still doesn't work don't assume the replacement starter is good.

If the engine is not cranking it has nothing to do with the spark plugs or wires.

Once you get the engine to start it sounds like you are saying the engine runs fine. That pretty much focuses the problem on the starting system.

Get back with the answers to my questions and the results of cleaning and tapping. We'll go from there.

Luck,
Kep

RichieRichJP · 05-20-2008, 05:47 PM

I bet you're having the same problem I had.
The reason why I was getting rid of my system was mostly because the alternator is 80AMPs, my system is 100AMP. Looks like you're running some components similar to mine and extra.
I had starting problems because I ran the system.
For example.
If I ran audio with the ignition on ON (car not running) and tried to crank it about 30 secs later, it won't. It just goes crank crank crank crank crank fail.
Also, if I ran the system moderately hard and went driving, took a stop, it again, won't crank.
I would have to wait a while (10-20mins) before it would actually turn and it would barely. Even then I would have to keep revving my engine until it actually ran and didn't bog down and die.

JayMax03 · 05-21-2008, 12:26 AM

thanks Kep and Richie!!! I don't like tapping the starter like that it sound too "ghetto" almost like I'm rigging something up, but I'll give it a try. I ran into another problem as well and I don't know exactly what to do at this point. I was drilling a hole through the firewall of the car to run some 0 Gauge wire thorough and I think either put a hole through the brake fluid line or knock it off completely. Mostly I think its just a hole through the brake fluid line its a gray metal skinny rod that run adjacent from the power steering fluid now everytime I put some fluid in it... Its completely gone I wish I could put some tape around it to solve the problem but I guess I'll have to get an estimate on how much that costs as well...

JayMax03 · 05-21-2008, 08:23 AM

well its official... I put a hole in the brake fluid line now how do I fix that? I can feel where the hole is but I can't see it. A guy at a local garage told me that I might have to replace the whole line, and here I thought I could just put some tape on it and call it a day

Kep · 05-21-2008, 10:14 AM

Temporarily you might get a rubber tube (a little smaller than the brake line), slit it lengthwise, put it over the hole, and put a hose clamp around it so that the clamp is over the hole pressing the rubber hard enough to seal it.

However, these are your brakes. If it were me I would want to replace the line as soon as possible. I do way too much driving in heavy traffic to hope that my brakes work.

I'm still curious about my questions about the starting problem. Please post answers. I had another thought after Richie's post (I know nothing about sound systems except that I don't like other people who want to impose their music on my ears. Politically incorrect but true...). Have you tried to jump the car while it is being stubborn? If that works then it leads straight to the battery and charging system.

Kep

marc780 · 05-22-2008, 01:48 PM

Test the battery and alternator. If you have a volt ohmmeter (multimeter) you can do a cursory check yourself.
Battery should read 12.6 or better with engine off. With engine idling (for 3 minutes or more after start), you should get a reading of 14.0 at the battery (which tells you the alternator is charging). 13.5 is bare minimum, any less .
If your numbers are low have the battery load tested (how old is it too?), check your alternator belt for slipping, and have the alternator tested (most auto parts stores can do it for free if you bring it to them off the car).

JayMax03 · 05-23-2008, 08:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kep

Let's get our terminology the same and we'll go from there. "Crank" and "turn over" mean the same. When you turn the key (normally) the engine will crank for a few seconds and then start. When it isn't working you may crank the engine over 10 or 20 seconds and it still might not start. Or you may turn the key and it doesn't crank at all.

I believe that you are turning the key and the engine doesn't crank at all. When you turn the key do you hear one click and then nothing? Do you hear anything while the key is turned?

Just for fun, check your battery cables, make sure they are clean and tight. If it still doesn't crank gently tap the starter with a wrench or hammer. If it starts up after tapping it your starter contacts are probably going bad. This also is often effective if you hear one click after turning the key (again, bad contacts). That being the case, your replacement starter should take care of your problem. If it is a used starter I will give you 40% odds that it too is broken. So if it still doesn't work don't assume the replacement starter is good.

If the engine is not cranking it has nothing to do with the spark plugs or wires.

Once you get the engine to start it sounds like you are saying the engine runs fine. That pretty much focuses the problem on the starting system.

Get back with the answers to my questions and the results of cleaning and tapping. We'll go from there.

Luck,
Kep

Yeah it did that clicking sound yesterday? Then the next few hours it never did crank up, by that time I just gave up and went to work in my mom's Avenger (I couldn't drive that car anymore its too cramped - I had to turn my foot sideways just to reach the acceleration pedal and don't get me started on the brake pedal

) just my luck. I didn't hit the starter with a screwdriver or hammer like you said I got excited when my starter I ordered off ebay came in. Funny thing though I didn't drive it despite the whole in my brake line, yet it cranked up just fine I'm going to try it again today and see what happens. I'll let y'all the next situation tomorrow. Thanks Kep

JayMax03 · 05-23-2008, 09:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by marc780

Test the battery and alternator. If you have a volt ohmmeter (multimeter) you can do a cursory check yourself.
Battery should read 12.6 or better with engine off. With engine idling (for 3 minutes or more after start), you should get a reading of 14.0 at the battery (which tells you the alternator is charging). 13.5 is bare minimum, any less .
If your numbers are low have the battery load tested (how old is it too?), check your alternator belt for slipping, and have the alternator tested (most auto parts stores can do it for free if you bring it to them off the car).

I haven't tested the battery yet, but I've had it for 3 years now and it died 4 times during those 3 years due to me leaving my lights on and my security system kept going off, but that part only happened once... I've have a Vehicle Dynamics System on my headunit that tells the battery status and its always reading 13.6v when it damn near too hot to ride around... and 14.3v when its cold. I've had it drop to a 10.2v and lower on several occasions but for the past few months its been on 13.9v with the AC and headlights on. The power on my dash clock keeps coming on and off all the time, and my brake light sensor is always popping on and I replaced all of my lights... That much I figured since I put my stock alternator (70 amps) back in. I sold my 150 amp alternator for $220 and something I didn't want to do, but somebody wanted so bad he wouldn't stop blowing up my phone so I let him have for that much.