3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
Watsup ya'll, i was involved in an accident bout a month ago, n some taxi-van hit my car while i was on my way to work. im in tha process of refitting the gen 4.5 headlights onto my car n doin tha nessary bodywork on it. After much thought, I've decided that rather than painting just tha parts im replacing (hood, bumper cover), n blending the existing parts to tha new color, im goin to paint tha entire car instead. It's tha rite way to go about fixing tha car cuz in my opinion as well as my brother's (who's a mechanic at Toyota), tha chances of gettin my color of tha car to match the color of tha new parts (hood n bumper cover) is very slim. My brother has seen many attempts to do so, and the new paint is either too dark or too light when compared to tha existing paint after blending (its a very difficult color to match).
I like tha color it has now, but since im repainting tha entire car, might as well get a color i like better. Tha only thing restricting me is tha color of my interior which is 2-tone beige wit a light brown (i think it called sage) color
Now this is my car prior to tha accident-its a granny beige color, take into account tha color of tha interior
Now I was thinking a color like this one i believe it called sage.
Whatever you choose, know this: When changing the color of the car, the job is always a LOT better if you go to the extra effort to paint inside the door jambs and around corners, under the trunk lid and hood, etc,
as close to how the factory painted the car as is possible. Ideally, you won't be able to tell that the car
has been repainted short of yanking the carpet out and taking a look under it.
And it's NOT that difficult! You need to strip a lot off the car but everything either is held in place with snaps
or with snaps and a couple of screws or nuts. Nothing is hard to remove or takes long to remove, and the
more you take off, the easier the masking is for repainting.
I don't know if you intend to do the repainting yourself, (which is by far the cheapest way to go but still
will cost some money) or if you'll pay someone else to do it, but either way, additional labor put into
stripping pieces off the car so they don't have to be masked around, and labor put into filling and
blending any minor dents or damage, will definitely pay off with a better paintjob.
If you're going to have someone else do the painting, YOU strip the trim off the car yourself, as far as
is possible (and I mean including removing the door panels and interior trim around the doors, stripping
the trunk all the way out, removing the door gaskets and seals, everything), and mask off the rest for
painting, and you'll be able to get your painter to shoot all those extra spots for not much more money,
or for no extra charge. If he doesn't have to put any extra labor into painting those pieces, and he has
enough paint to cover them, it'll cost you almost nothing extra to have it done, and then the job will be
done RIGHT.
If the doors are one color but the jambs are a different color, that's always a sign of a cheap and cheesy
paintjob. I recommend not doing it that way.
I really like white....probably biased because my gen3 is white. Blacked out emblems look great against white paint. You almost need darker interior to pull of this color. However, I really like Durrby's Grey Gen3. When done right like he has with the perfect compliment of after market bolt-ons the final product is subtle and tasteful yet very beautiful and aggressive. Black is nice but every little flaw stands out. Just my 2 cents
Whatever you choose, know this: When changing the color of the car, the job is always a LOT better if you go to the extra effort to paint inside the door jambs and around corners, under the trunk lid and hood, etc,
as close to how the factory painted the car as is possible. Ideally, you won't be able to tell that the car
has been repainted short of yanking the carpet out and taking a look under it.
And it's NOT that difficult! You need to strip a lot off the car but everything either is held in place with snaps
or with snaps and a couple of screws or nuts. Nothing is hard to remove or takes long to remove, and the
more you take off, the easier the masking is for repainting.
I don't know if you intend to do the repainting yourself, (which is by far the cheapest way to go but still
will cost some money) or if you'll pay someone else to do it, but either way, additional labor put into
stripping pieces off the car so they don't have to be masked around, and labor put into filling and
blending any minor dents or damage, will definitely pay off with a better paintjob.
If you're going to have someone else do the painting, YOU strip the trim off the car yourself, as far as
is possible (and I mean including removing the door panels and interior trim around the doors, stripping
the trunk all the way out, removing the door gaskets and seals, everything), and mask off the rest for
painting, and you'll be able to get your painter to shoot all those extra spots for not much more money,
or for no extra charge. If he doesn't have to put any extra labor into painting those pieces, and he has
enough paint to cover them, it'll cost you almost nothing extra to have it done, and then the job will be
done RIGHT.
If the doors are one color but the jambs are a different color, that's always a sign of a cheap and cheesy
paintjob. I recommend not doing it that way.
CJ
Yea im very well aware of this, i was actually gon do tha bodywork myself, ive had my share of experience already, my 89 Celica is proof , but yea thas where bodyshops make their dollar, tha body work/masking/removal of panels n gaskets, tha painting is tha easiest n cheapest part. I would do it myself but dont have access to a paint booth/compressor at this time.
I knoe watch mean bout tha door jambs, ive seen waaaaaaaay too many cars wit tha old color of tha car still in tha jambs. Which is why i kinda wanna stick wit that sage color cuz it tha closest to tha existing paint when coloring tha jambs, goin wit a darker colors means more prep work, which i dont really have tha time for, but can do-it'll jus take more for me to do thas all.
Thanks for ur input ya'll, i would go black, but it wont really match tha interior in my opinion. It would look kinda amateur in my opinon, same goes wit that white, i like it but again wit tha interior restriction-would match better than black tho. I was originally thinkin a light silver also, but wont match tha interior-worst of those 3 colors under my circumstance. Any more opinions?
__________________
I build cars the way I build them, anybody who thinks any different, well... they're just wrong
I'd just want to point out that there's USUALLY a paint and body shop somewhere in your area
that will rent out their booth if you're willing to work with their schedule.
It's where I painted my '92 Camry, which is a work in progress.
The rental of the booth for a day was 150 bucks. I had it all Saturday and picked up the
car on Sunday around noon, after a night's cure in the paintbooth.
I'd just want to point out that there's USUALLY a paint and body shop somewhere in your area
that will rent out their booth if you're willing to work with their schedule.
It's where I painted my '92 Camry, which is a work in progress.
The rental of the booth for a day was 150 bucks. I had it all Saturday and picked up the
car on Sunday around noon, after a night's cure in the paintbooth.
CJ
MMMMh good point, will have to take that into consideration, ill c if i can somehow work it into my schedule on a weekend- i work 2 jobs, my engineering internship, n i bartend on weekends
__________________
I build cars the way I build them, anybody who thinks any different, well... they're just wrong
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