1995 Camry, idle issue

[noname87]

I have a 1995 Camry LE wagon with the 4 cylinder engine (120K, automatic). On several occasions over the last six months, the engine has almost stalled when I was stopping for a red light. All of a sudden the engine RPM would drop below 750 (to as low as 250). If I shifted to neutral and applied gas, the engine would recover and the car would have no problems for the rest of the trip. The times this occurred, the engine was fully warmed up (often after driving at highway speeds). It only happens right before coming to a full stop on level payment. Today, it happen again and didn't clear up immediately. I have had no warning lights come on and no problems with cold starts even in the winter.

The wires, distributor cap, and plugs were changed last year. After searching here, I cleaned the throttle body and IAC valve with Sea Foam Creep according to the DYI posted here. I will clean the IAC valve again tomorrow by spraying it through the IAC valve intake opening in the throttle body.

Any suggestion on what else to check. Should I consider replacing the IAC valve?

[cruisn76]

Have you tried seafoaming the vacuum line???

THe line is located near the firewall (see pic: not really clear as to where) where the big black round thing is. Start the car and remove that line that connects into the BIG BLACK THING and let it suck up 1/3 of seafoam marine care slowly.

BTW this is not my car it is REDPHOENIX

[noname87]

I have not tried that yet. Has anybody had success doing this? I would like not to annoy the nieghbors (due to smoke cloud) if I can.

[Kep]

Seriously, the cloud of smoke is half the fun. If it happens it is hysterical. I was so embarrassed that I drove around until it quit. There have been several good posts on how to do it and some youtube movies as well. I would not discourage you from doing what you proposed (putting more cleaner in the IAC valve) as well as what cruisn76 is suggesting.

However, if you don’t get the results that you hope for you may need to do some more aggressive cleaning. Consider removing the throttle body (TB) in order to gain better access to the IAC valve. Clean the IAC out and put 12 volts to it to verify its operation. While you have the TB off, it is easier to remove/install the EGR valve. Go ahead and remove it and clean it (you will probably have to carefully pick off chunks of carbon with a small screwdriver – don’t damage it).

You may also need to check the Engine Coolant Temperature sensor (for the ECU) at various temperatures (especially those that give you problems). The ECT is on the metal tube on the top driver side of the engine connected to the top radiator hose. It has a green plastic connector. Check the manual for the specs and use a digital multi-meter.

Kep

[noname87]

I have tried cleaning the IAC valve again and am waiting to see if the problem reoccurs.

You mention cleaning the EGR valve. what is the best way to clean this? I have not had any trouble lights come on. Looking at the Hayes manual, it seems to indicate that if the emission system is acting up, I should get a check engine light. In my case, is the EGR valve a likely suspect.

This only happens when the engine is warmed up.

[Avantgarde]

i have the same problem with my 96. when i get into city from highways at lights or stops car can stop. if i increase rpm up to 3-4 it goes away.

i have changed ect and it didnt help. i dont know what to do next. but i cannot spend too much money and time on this. since i know my car, if i feel like it's gonna happen i just drive it at o/d for a few seconds at every trip..

[ASG14]

What is your normal RPM's when warmed up?

[noname87]

For me (the orginal poster), my car idles at 750 RPM when warmed up. When starting with a cold engine, the idle speed will be over 1000 RPM. When the problem occur (with a warm engine) the idle drops below 250 RPM.

[360glitch]

The massive smoke cloud truly is half the fun. I'd recommend checking just to make sure all the vacuum lines are connected good. Not sure if that could cause it but it can't hurt to check...

[Avantgarde]

my rpm values are almost same. i dont have any rpm concerns actually. when i'm driving the car in the city(at most 4-5 miles) it never happens. this thing only happens if i drive the car for long time..

+

i feel like this happens if i use the accelerator more then the car can go. what i mean is that; for example if i'm on a long ramp and when i was going with 60mph, if i try to accelerate of course my 4 cylinder cannot respond it without decreasing the gear. and after this kind of situations it tends to happen more often(i'm not so sure). but when this happens, i stop, pull the gear to neutral and i listen the engine when it is around(250 rpm), or even i use the accelerator just a few up to 1500-1800 rpm a little bit, it sounds like sth is not feeding very well and engine sound comes by cuts. maybe its fuel, maybe its too much fuel stuck somewhere, or maybe air or electricty. i dont know.. when i use the gas up to 3000-4000 rpm for a couple seconds the thing stuck in my engine goes away and it starts running very well..

[cykaaro]

Been dealing with the same issue myself on my '92 v6 LE. I've cleaned the throttle body and IAC as best I could as the IAC was thought to be dirty with another issue, and although that cleared up, this is what happens now.

cruisn76: do you know who carries seafoam around here? Wouldn't mind giving it a go to clean my engine out as much as I can.

[Avantgarde]

Talking about this issue,

I washed up my engine 6 weeks ago. This thing happened just 2-3 times since that time(Normally in this time period it was supposed to happen at least 20 times). Something helped it, but I don't know what it is. Maybe it is just because of the summer..

[Avantgarde]

Originally Posted by Avantgarde

Talking about this issue,

I washed up my engine 6 weeks ago. This thing happened just 2-3 times since that time(Normally in this time period it was supposed to happen at least 20 times). Something helped it, but I don't know what it is. Maybe it is just because of the summer..

With the beginning of winter and real cold weather I've realized that my car was good on summer. Because these days it dies (tends to die) 4-5 times a day when I'm coming to stops or lights.. I pull it to neutral rev it up and it goes.. If I dont it dies..

So I can say that my car dies much more often in the cold weather. what could it be? any ideas?

thanks

[Mike Morris]

Some Toyota techs feel that even cleaning the IAC does little. The unit itself may be bad.

[dave255]

Check the ECT sensor