3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
Tried couple time to take it off from the top of the engine cover and gave up, the two bolts under it were fubar, and I could snake a wrench down the tube to the big bolt going to the head but couldn't position myself to get enough torque so I ramped the car up and went from underneath. It's kind of a half ass DIY cause I was not able to separate the EGR valve from the tube because of the rusty ass bolts, I would've had to cut them and I didn't have new ones.
1. Ramp or jack the front of the car up
2. Remove the two rubber hoses from the valve (small one at the top, bigger one down between the egr modulator and egr valve) and get underneath the car. That was actually the most annoying part of the job.
3. I used an ajustable wrench to unscrew the big bolt at the end of the EGR tube, when you're underneath the car you will probably notice it, it's a metal tube that bolts into the head.
I'm sorry my picture was crappy so I had to photobucket-enhance it, but at least you can pretty much see where the wrench is going. There's a smaller bolt next to the EGR bolt that you see on the picture, it might get in the way so be sure your wrench doesn't touch it before giving a shot at the EGR bolt.
4.Once this is done, remove the two 11mm egr valve mounting nuts from the intake. There's a gasket there, just so you know. I didn't want to take any chance so I had bought a new one before.
5. Snake it out. since I wasn't able to separate it from the tube, I filled it's every hole with seafoam and let it soak for about 20 minutes, then re-installed and took a drive. If you can separate it, be careful when you scrub anything to avoid damaging the valve.
When you re-install it, put it back on the intake bolts but dont put the nuts on, it will be easier to re-thread the tube bolt to the head.
I'll probably do it again soon, but I will buy new bolts so I can cut the rusty bolts that connect the EGR valve to the tube and take more pictures.
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Restoring '65 Chevy Impala Super Sport w/ 327-300 small block, Edelbrock carb/intake and T-5 tranny that will probably blow up.
Black '98 Camry LE 4Cyl Auto, 188 000Kms and counting
Black '98 Camry CE 4Cyl Auto, 295 000Kms and counting - SOLD
instead of cutting you should try placing it in a bench vice, soaking it with wd-40, then torch the thing with a propane torch. That should let you break it free. good DIY so far.
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instead of cutting you should try placing it in a bench vice, soaking it with wd-40, then torch the thing with a propane torch. That should let you break it free. good DIY so far.
I tried vise grips, wich are usually my last resort, but they were litterally fused, I should buy a damned dremel. I don't really want to torch my EGR valve though...
I will finish it at some point, but rest assured that filling every single hole with seafoam and letting sit did a very good difference at just 134 000 kilometers.
Edit : Oh a bench vice sorry I read it wrong, I don't have one lol
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Restoring '65 Chevy Impala Super Sport w/ 327-300 small block, Edelbrock carb/intake and T-5 tranny that will probably blow up.
Black '98 Camry LE 4Cyl Auto, 188 000Kms and counting
Black '98 Camry CE 4Cyl Auto, 295 000Kms and counting - SOLD
it helps with mileage becasue the egr is dumping exhuas gases into the intake manifold lower the air to fuel ratio, so you have liek a 50% clean air 50% exhaust gases ( which arent combustable ) thus the car is using less fuel, instead of having 100% clean air using more fuel to fully ignite the clean air...understand..hopefully someone would clear it up if you dont understand
__________________ 99 5s w/ V6 '01 Solara Brake Conversion & 1985 AW11 MR2 5spd Camry:Tokico Blue's w/ Ebiach Lowering Springs on Motegi FF7 17" Rims with FALKEN ALL SEASON SPORT TIRES MR2: 7A-GE
FS: Gen 4.5 Clear lense/JVC HU&Radar
It just takes out nitrous oxide out of the air for emmisions, and its to keep you running lean also to help burn more toxins for emmisions. Also it help the life of your catylic converter. I don't run either....Weather or not, the ecu will always compensates for fuel ratio. Maybe I'm wrong.....I suck.
__________________ GF:"samarai I want to marry you." Me:"Uhhhh..I made a mistake.I only love my car"
My engine doesn't have egr and never did. It's a J-spec that I stuffed in when the 2nd engine died. It came with a block-off plate on the manifold and a plug in the head and a slightly different throttle body. I kept all the J-stuff including the intake and sensors-it plugged right in and ran with no c.e.l. . It also idles fine and uses no more fuel and probably less than the other engine. Who knows about emissions though...
If you want to permanently delete the egr, it is possible. You just have to re-route a few vacuum hoses and wires. No cutting, the plugs already exist in the harness ( at least they do in mine, it's a 92 ).
I have a camry ce 2000. my engine check lights have come ON and on hooking the computer, I get the message P0401 that translates to insufficient exhaust flow (EGR valve). My car runs well, there is no change in the engine noise nor the idling has been affected, it runs smooth, the mileage is also pretty much steady. Does anyone have an idea on what should I do? I took it to several auto repairers and they are insisting on changing the EGR valve that costs around $600 (too expensive). Can anyone share their experience if they had the similar situation with their Camry CE 2000? Is it possible to clean it the way it has been shown here. I am all new to the car-world, should I do it on my own? any advice would be helpful.
could a guy also install a new EGR valve and then 'plug' the vacuum line going to it so it looks stock. The EGR valve is presumably vacuum-operated (vacuum-opened) so it would just stay closed forever.
If you take it to a mechanic they will undoubtedly want to put in a new one that they can stand behind.
If you are willing to do the work yourself you can try to clean it. I don't know how much the design has changed since my 3SFE. My 1995 5SFE looks the same. I don't know about year 2000.
If you are able to clean it, great, you save a lot. If not you will need to replace it with either used or new. It's kind of tricky getting it off the car so you can clean it. Once you get it where you can clean it you need to be careful not to damage it but it isn't rocket science. There are a lot of threads on this in the Gen 1/2 forum and the Gen 3/4 forum. If you are comfortable with the process that is described, try it. It never hurts to have another car lined up that you can use to shag parts if necessary.
Barthmonster, what is the purpose? If you install a new one and disable it they'll still get an error code and you won't pass emissions. I guess you could plug it in between testing but the EGR system actually improves mileage so why mess it up?
Kep
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Often, it's the loose screw between the steering wheel and the driver's seat that needs to be fixed first!
Oh. Thanks. That is actually anti-logical to me that you get better mileage with it. Most 'other' smog devices, etc. detract from performance and mileage and disabling them is an improvement all around.
Glad to know that, now to find out how much a new one is. My car ran great when I started working on it, but mileage when new was 32-33 mpg, lately 28-29 mpg. I did clean the fuel-injectors which should help some.
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