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3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001 Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 06-06-2008, 08:50 PM   #1 (permalink)
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DIY : EGR Valve removal

Tried couple time to take it off from the top of the engine cover and gave up, the two bolts under it were fubar, and I could snake a wrench down the tube to the big bolt going to the head but couldn't position myself to get enough torque so I ramped the car up and went from underneath. It's kind of a half ass DIY cause I was not able to separate the EGR valve from the tube because of the rusty ass bolts, I would've had to cut them and I didn't have new ones.

1. Ramp or jack the front of the car up




2. Remove the two rubber hoses from the valve (small one at the top, bigger one down between the egr modulator and egr valve) and get underneath the car. That was actually the most annoying part of the job.

3. I used an ajustable wrench to unscrew the big bolt at the end of the EGR tube, when you're underneath the car you will probably notice it, it's a metal tube that bolts into the head.

I'm sorry my picture was crappy so I had to photobucket-enhance it, but at least you can pretty much see where the wrench is going. There's a smaller bolt next to the EGR bolt that you see on the picture, it might get in the way so be sure your wrench doesn't touch it before giving a shot at the EGR bolt.




4.Once this is done, remove the two 11mm egr valve mounting nuts from the intake. There's a gasket there, just so you know. I didn't want to take any chance so I had bought a new one before.




5. Snake it out. since I wasn't able to separate it from the tube, I filled it's every hole with seafoam and let it soak for about 20 minutes, then re-installed and took a drive. If you can separate it, be careful when you scrub anything to avoid damaging the valve.



When you re-install it, put it back on the intake bolts but dont put the nuts on, it will be easier to re-thread the tube bolt to the head.

I'll probably do it again soon, but I will buy new bolts so I can cut the rusty bolts that connect the EGR valve to the tube and take more pictures.
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Old 06-06-2008, 10:16 PM   #2 (permalink)
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So the beer is for before or after removing the valve?

hehehe good post man
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Old 06-08-2008, 02:17 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Please complete this 100% I think it would help alot of people with rough idle or poor gas mileage.

Keep up the good work!
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Old 06-08-2008, 02:27 AM   #4 (permalink)
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instead of cutting you should try placing it in a bench vice, soaking it with wd-40, then torch the thing with a propane torch. That should let you break it free. good DIY so far.
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Old 06-08-2008, 04:44 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samarai912 View Post
instead of cutting you should try placing it in a bench vice, soaking it with wd-40, then torch the thing with a propane torch. That should let you break it free. good DIY so far.
I tried vise grips, wich are usually my last resort, but they were litterally fused, I should buy a damned dremel. I don't really want to torch my EGR valve though...

I will finish it at some point, but rest assured that filling every single hole with seafoam and letting sit did a very good difference at just 134 000 kilometers.

Edit : Oh a bench vice sorry I read it wrong, I don't have one lol
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Old 06-08-2008, 04:46 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cruisn76 View Post
Please complete this 100% I think it would help alot of people with rough idle or poor gas mileage.

Keep up the good work!
Can you explain how does it help mileage?
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Old 06-08-2008, 08:27 PM   #7 (permalink)
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it helps with mileage becasue the egr is dumping exhuas gases into the intake manifold lower the air to fuel ratio, so you have liek a 50% clean air 50% exhaust gases ( which arent combustable ) thus the car is using less fuel, instead of having 100% clean air using more fuel to fully ignite the clean air...understand..hopefully someone would clear it up if you dont understand
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Old 06-08-2008, 09:11 PM   #8 (permalink)
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It just takes out nitrous oxide out of the air for emmisions, and its to keep you running lean also to help burn more toxins for emmisions. Also it help the life of your catylic converter. I don't run either....Weather or not, the ecu will always compensates for fuel ratio. Maybe I'm wrong.....I suck.
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Old 06-08-2008, 09:28 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Uhm, so we need the EGR tube or no? ...
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Old 06-08-2008, 10:05 PM   #10 (permalink)
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My engine doesn't have egr and never did. It's a J-spec that I stuffed in when the 2nd engine died. It came with a block-off plate on the manifold and a plug in the head and a slightly different throttle body. I kept all the J-stuff including the intake and sensors-it plugged right in and ran with no c.e.l. . It also idles fine and uses no more fuel and probably less than the other engine. Who knows about emissions though...

If you want to permanently delete the egr, it is possible. You just have to re-route a few vacuum hoses and wires. No cutting, the plugs already exist in the harness ( at least they do in mine, it's a 92 ).
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Old 06-09-2008, 12:05 AM   #11 (permalink)
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you don't need it, but then, chances are you may not pass emissions

and added to the sticky thread as an "interesting alternative" method lol
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Old 08-22-2008, 02:34 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Hi Fellows:

I have a camry ce 2000. my engine check lights have come ON and on hooking the computer, I get the message P0401 that translates to insufficient exhaust flow (EGR valve). My car runs well, there is no change in the engine noise nor the idling has been affected, it runs smooth, the mileage is also pretty much steady. Does anyone have an idea on what should I do? I took it to several auto repairers and they are insisting on changing the EGR valve that costs around $600 (too expensive). Can anyone share their experience if they had the similar situation with their Camry CE 2000? Is it possible to clean it the way it has been shown here. I am all new to the car-world, should I do it on my own? any advice would be helpful.

Thanks
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Old 11-09-2008, 07:42 AM   #13 (permalink)
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could a guy also install a new EGR valve and then 'plug' the vacuum line going to it so it looks stock. The EGR valve is presumably vacuum-operated (vacuum-opened) so it would just stay closed forever.

Comments ??
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Old 11-09-2008, 11:18 PM   #14 (permalink)
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If you take it to a mechanic they will undoubtedly want to put in a new one that they can stand behind.

If you are willing to do the work yourself you can try to clean it. I don't know how much the design has changed since my 3SFE. My 1995 5SFE looks the same. I don't know about year 2000.

If you are able to clean it, great, you save a lot. If not you will need to replace it with either used or new. It's kind of tricky getting it off the car so you can clean it. Once you get it where you can clean it you need to be careful not to damage it but it isn't rocket science. There are a lot of threads on this in the Gen 1/2 forum and the Gen 3/4 forum. If you are comfortable with the process that is described, try it. It never hurts to have another car lined up that you can use to shag parts if necessary.

Barthmonster, what is the purpose? If you install a new one and disable it they'll still get an error code and you won't pass emissions. I guess you could plug it in between testing but the EGR system actually improves mileage so why mess it up?

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Old 11-11-2008, 06:23 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Oh. Thanks. That is actually anti-logical to me that you get better mileage with it. Most 'other' smog devices, etc. detract from performance and mileage and disabling them is an improvement all around.

Glad to know that, now to find out how much a new one is. My car ran great when I started working on it, but mileage when new was 32-33 mpg, lately 28-29 mpg. I did clean the fuel-injectors which should help some.
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