Transmission issues

[rev_rock]

I've seen a few threads regarding transmission problems here, so thought I'd mention mine and see if there are any views or advice I can get.

I've got a '93, 3VZFE V-6, 4-speed auto, 152,000 miles.

The first issue is harsh shifting from 1st to 2nd gear. I've read that there is a rubber check ball (in the valve body, I would assume) that gets sucked through a hole and causes this. Anyone have this happen, and did you repair, replace the valve body or replace the trans? The other gears shift fine.

The second issue occurs when it's cold. The car surges (for lack of a better description) until it gets up to about 40-45 mph. Then it seems to 'free up' and goes just fine. It's got to be a trans issue, because I can put it in neutral and the engine revs freely. From reading here, it seems that these transmissions don't like being cold, so maybe it's just that.

I've been toying with the idea of having the engine and trans replaced with lower mileage units, but if the trans is fixable (it works perfectly, other than these two issues), I'd rather save some $$$ and keep it. The engine is in need of head gaskets, but I've got a mechanic who will replace them at a reasonable cost. I figure it'll cost me about $3000 to replace both, vs. about $1200 for head gasket/mill/valve job. Quite a difference!!

Thanks in advance for any suggestions!!!!

[rev_rock]

Anyone???

[500KCamry]

Originally Posted by rev_rock

Anyone???

One of the threads said to try a progressive flush, drain the tranny, refill, run for a few hundred km, drain and refill, etc. after two or three this would get most of the fluid changed, the torque convertor holds fluid that won't drain each time.

For the first change you could pull the pan and change/clean the filter, see what's in the bottom of the pan.

The mileage you have isn't overly high for a wholesale swap like you are thinking about.

[Dave's]

I'm not an expert but pretty sure these cars have to reach a certain temp before they will shift normally. (Believe it inhibits the overdrive function.) You can try flushing but one of my solenoids stuck. I pulled the pan off and removed the two bottom ones. (Quite simple.) There's a procedure to clean/check them using less than 60 PSI air pressure. Solved my problem.

[islandboy57]

Originally Posted by rev_rock

The second issue occurs when it's cold. The car surges (for lack of a better description) until it gets up to about 40-45 mph. Then it seems to 'free up' and goes just fine. It's got to be a trans issue, because I can put it in neutral and the engine revs freely. From reading here, it seems that these transmissions don't like being cold, so maybe it's just that.

Not sure I'm understanding right, but it sounds like the transmission is just locking out the higher gears in order to warm up. My '95 will let me continuously drive at 2.5K RPM for 15-20 seconds (and it's a weird sensation) when I'm going 25 MPH and then shift like normal. I can see where that might be looked at as a problem and perhaps a malfunction.

My '05 doesn't do that, but it does shift a little harsher until it warms up.

[rev_rock]

Thanks for all the replies.

I bought this car from a girl at work for $1900, and it had 138,000 miles on it. It had (has) a head gasket leak, which I used Steel Seal on, and now am running Bar's Leaks' new 'miracle' sealer (seems to work pretty decent, although I DO need to get those gaskets changed!!). Anyway, when I bought the car, the fluid didn't look too clean, but didn't smell burnt. I've changed the fluid and filter twice in the last 12,000 miles, and am running Amsoil fluid. Looks nice and clean now.

I might try the solenoid thing that Dave's talked about, if he or someone else can give me the details.

500KCamry, you helped make my decision easier regarding doing the engine/trans swap. The motor (other than the head gasket issue) is very tight and doesn't use a drop of oil. If the trans is fine, then I think I'll just have the heads done and replace the gaskets. I've read that Toyota has improved gaskets for this engine that solve the leaking problem. That would be nice!!

Thanks for all your help, guys. If you've got any more to add, PLEASE feel free!!!

[rev_rock]

Hey Dave's, what part of Oklahoma do you live in? I've got family all over there!! Sometimes I wish I could move back there!!

[Luckynumber5]

The shifting issue could be a lot of things, try loosening the kickdown cable located on the throttle body (if you don;t know what it is don't attempt anything until I can get you a better picture.)

The cold issue is a common thing for the 3vz-fe, check the distributor cap and rotor. For a while mine would do that when the cap needed changing, but now it does it almost all the time. It's most likely an issue with the air flow meter, just let the car warm up a little before you drive it. It should only take a minute or two but its better than stumbling in traffic.

[rev_rock]

Well, I know what/where the kick down cable is. I don't think that would cause the harsh shifting problem for two reasons: it doesn't shift harshly in any other gears, and it doesn't make any difference whether it's under hard or gentle acceleration.

As far as the distributor cap/rotor, or air flow meter causing the surging, it didn't make any difference before or after tune up. If I pull over and put the car in neutral or park, it will rev freely and is very responsive. Put it back in drive and it begins the 'surge' sensation. So it really seems to be something with the trans. It's like it needs to warm up before it wants to go. I drove it to work today and, about 45 mph, it just seems to free up and run. After that, it's fine.

Maybe it's morning sickness and I'm about to become the proud owner of a baby Camry! (Would the baby be a Yaris?)

[davemac2]

Originally Posted by rev_rock

Well, I know what/where the kick down cable is. I don't think that would cause the harsh shifting problem for two reasons: it doesn't shift harshly in any other gears, and it doesn't make any difference whether it's under hard or gentle acceleration.

It can make a difference. This was the symptom on my wife's camry. The kick down cable ferrule at the transmission end was broken and caused an effective shortening of the cable which led to 1-2 harsh shifting. A new cable solved that.

Can you describe exactly what you mean by surging? You mean higher revving without power? As if the trans is slipping? If it is slipping and you have a harsh shift, then it may be low trans pressure which causes a delayed shift at a higher RPM which causes the harshness. At what RPM is the 1-2 shift occurring at moderate acceleration? Low trans pressure can be caused by many things.

dave mc

[rev_rock]

Well I don't mean to imply that the two problems are related. The surging might better be described as lunging? It's like something is holding the car back. It's like it wants to go, but can't, so it sort of repetedly surges forward in spurts until it reaches about 45 mph, then takes off like nothing ever happened.

The harsh 1 - 2 shifting doesn't occure at any particular rpm. And it doesn't do it every time it shifts, but it does it enough to be annoying (about 90% of the time), as well as a concern. It will even do it if I try to feather, or back off, the throttle. I've read that one of the concerns with this trans is that, as they age, a rubber check ball shrinks and gets sucked into one of the valve body passages, and causes this to happen, but it doesn't appear that anyone here has experienced it. Did I just get one of the cars that does it?

[rev_rock]

Just an added thought: if the kickdown cable was causing the harsh shifting due to being shortened, it should affect downshifting when passing. Mine works normally, so I wouldn't think that's the problem.

[cykaaro]

The surging sounds oddly familiar. I've noticed with mine that when I'm stopped and in gear, it wants to surge ahead, and if I take the foot of the brake, it'll really accelerate forward. Once it's been running a while and fully warmed up it no longer does this.

[Dave's]

If you're removing the pan to drain fluid, clean or change filter screen, etc. anyway then you may want to clean the soleniods if it's not shifting smoothly. With the pan off (try not to move the magnets) look for the two solenoids on the bottom. One has a white wire (TCS #14) and the other has a black wire (TCS #15). NOTE WHICH IS WHERE IF YOU TAKE THEM BOTH OFF! Think the wire unplugs and one screw holds each in place. Use less than 60PSI on an air nozzle with the rubber tip pressed to the hole on the end. Should be no air coming from smaller holes. Apply 12vdc to case and plug. (I used gnd to case and positive to the terminal.) Solenoid should have a solid click and air should come out the smaller holes around the end. One of mine moved very slowly at first but agitating it in clean fluid and repeated attempts freed it up. This solved my problem. Of course, I'm sure other parts wear out so I can't promise this will fix everything. Might be worth trying however before spending big bucks on a rebuild or replacement. FWIW!

[rev_rock]

Thanks for the instructions. It's worth a try. I'll have to get a filter, some fresh fluid and an hour of free time an do it. Thanks again!!