Leaking fuel filter

[92alltrac]

Originally Posted by ihgrad

I had the same issue replacing my fuel filter on my 96 5sfe. I was checking the fuel pressure (long story) anddecided to swap filters while I was at it. First time, fuel leaked. Tried again, leaked again. Third time I loosen the bracket that hold the filter to the frame so the filter would have some play while I was lining it up- I figured I had thread it wrong and was not getting a tight seal- having play in the filter helped me get it seated properly. Once I had it hand-tight, I gave a turn with the wrench, tighten the bracket back up, then REALLY tighted the thing, to the point I almost thought I was going to break it. It hasen't leaked yet- knock on wood. Good thing, too because I already tossed the original...

Originally Posted by Kep

^++1

The flare must be lined up correctly, tightening down a misaligned connection won't necessarily seal the connection.

I would not encourage you to try and modify the flare. If you alter it it likely won't seal on the existing filter or a replacement filter. I guess the way that I would put it would be to only do this only if you have the time to replace the fuel line if you mess it up.

Kep

You both are correct.

Do not use thread tape or sealant it is the flare that seals, not the threads. When you buy a Toyota fuel filter it comes already mounted in a new bracket. My mistake was mounting the filter/bracket to the frame rail first and then inserting the fuel pipe and screwing in the flare nut.

What you need to do first is to place the fuel line into the bottom of the filter and get it so it seats completely level flat. Then slide up up the flare nut and start screwing it into the filter until it bottoms out. Use a 19mm on the bottom of the filter to stabilize it and a 14mm flare wrench and tighten it. Then bolt down the fuel filter/bracket to the frame rail and repeat the tightening process of the fuel line once more.

[giuseppe]

I am glad I found this conversation about leaky fuel filters...
I was replacing the fuel filter in my 2004 Tundra v6, thinking it would be a 30 min job---until i turned the engine on and returned to find it leaking all over. After much googling, I found this thread and at least felt more relieved that I am not a complete idiot screwing up a "simple" maintenance job.

The last post (92alltrac) helped me gain new resolve after failing to install the new filter (Purolator) and the original one without getting a leak. I determined to get those rigid fuel lines perfectly in line and take my time threading the fitting in---which meant removing the bracket I had left on during the first two attempts. The bracket is wedged into a really tight spot, so removing it took patience, but once it was off, I had plenty of space to line up the filter and lines. (Yes, i decided to try mounting it without the bracket.)

Taking care to line it up and then cranking the fittings down nice and tight, I said a prayer and started the engine. ...drip drip drip. GRR!

That was trying the original filter again, so i decided to give it one last try with the new filter---this time, focusing on getting the upstream (near tank) side lined up perfectly, with no resistance to where i could easily thread it tight with just my fingers, then made it just barely tight with the wrenches. Then the downstream line, same thing, line it up so that i could easily thread it tight with my fingers, then just tight with the wrenches.

Praying again, I started it up, looked under, and sure enough it was leaking on the upstream side, but then I did something i hadn't done any times prior---convinced there was nothing better i could have done, i just used the wrenches on it while it was pressurized and leaking. And whatdya know----i dried it off and VOILA! No more leak!
That was 12 hours ago and I've since driven it around without any problems.

Hope this helps some other poor soul out there who got into more than they bargained for replacing a toyota fuel filter...

[fenixus]

I replace fuel filters on all my cars and I plan on doing so every 30k-60k miles tops. their lifetime usability is bullshit ... just like lifetime tranny fluid ... uhm aha, sure ...

just one idea. when you tighten the flare nut at bottom (no gasket) do you actually thread it with fingers and are able to make it snug (fingers only) for some time or it stops almost immediately (new filter) ?

then, when really tightening the filter (after brackets are securely bolted to car body), do you use only 1 flare nut wrench to tight it up?

I recommend using 19mm regular wrench to support the filter body and use a 14mm flare nut wrench, so they both are forming a kind of 12 o'clock with one and let's say 2 or 3 o'clock with the other.
then you can really tighten them like both squeeze together with one hand until both wrenches meet together. I found this is good enough. no leaks.

I believe you actually can't make it any tighter than this way or you risk twisting the fuel lines when using 1 flare nut wrench only.

That's what I did on my both Solaras (5s-fe and 1mz-fe) and zero fuel leaks with new OEM filters. this way also prevents twisting the fuel lines.

probably you did just that, so idk ... just a clue.

[giuseppe]

yeah, I was able to thread it for a good 1/2" with my fingers to the point where it made contact with the yoke-cone in the filter, then i did just that on the last time---the old two-wrench scissors move... give it a nice power grip and it's good to go.

[JohnGD]

Yeah, calling the small wimpy filter lifetime is just laughable. An interesting test would be the track fuel pump current draw as the filter plugs up over time.

These flare nut you should be able to thread a few turns before it's finger-tight. I'd use a flare crowfoot with a torque wrench. Clearance is a bit of a problem but workable.

Flare nuts are made of a softer metal. And if damaged it needs to be changed. I don't like flare connections, because technically they are one-use only (but we all repeatedly use them, for example master cylinders).

Originally Posted by fenixus

just one idea. when you tighten the flare nut at bottom (no gasket) do you actually thread it with fingers and are able to make it snug (fingers only) for some time or it stops almost immediately (new filter) ?

then, when really tightening the filter (after brackets are securely bolted to car body), do you use only 1 flare nut wrench to tight it up?

[fenixus]

Originally Posted by JohnGD

Yeah, calling the small wimpy filter lifetime is just laughable. An interesting test would be the track fuel pump current draw as the filter plugs up over time.

These flare nut you should be able to thread a few turns before it's finger-tight. I'd use a flare crowfoot with a torque wrench. Clearance is a bit of a problem but workable.

Flare nuts are made of a softer metal. And if damaged it needs to be changed. I don't like flare connections, because technically they are one-use only (but we all repeatedly use them, for example master cylinders).

long time no see JohnGD
nice to have you around, i hope you are doing well

[Pvt-Public]

Originally Posted by JohnGD

Yeah, calling the small wimpy filter lifetime is just laughable. An interesting test would be the track fuel pump current draw as the filter plugs up over time.

Lifetime fuel filter = BS So what Toyota is saying is that when the filter clogs it is time to replace the car not the filter

[fenixus]

Originally Posted by Pvt-Public

Lifetime fuel filter = BS So what Toyota is saying is that when the filter clogs it is time to replace the car not the filter

exactly, that's the point of all so called "lifetime" fluids/filters, same goes for lifetime transmission fluid