3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
hit the 140k mile mark this week ... gonna get an oil change and probably have the tires rotated, and i think i need to have the rotors resurfaced (could probably do it myself, havent really looked into it tho)
anything typical for 140k miles? i used to follow that little service booklet that came with my camry up until 100k miles then it didnt have any more pages, and ive done a tune-up and all that recently
just makin sure im not forgetting anything big
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140ish, according to my checklist is the time to do a good check of all the seals and gaskets if ya havnt already. but thats for a v6...the 4cyl may be different though.
well ull need to be ableo to get under the car for some of it but most of the seals and gasket are easy to check. your basically just lookin for leaks, or any build up aroud them that may indicate a slow leak.
hit the 140k mile mark this week ... gonna get an oil change and probably have the tires rotated, and i think i need to have the rotors resurfaced (could probably do it myself, havent really looked into it tho)
anything typical for 140k miles? i used to follow that little service booklet that came with my camry up until 100k miles then it didnt have any more pages, and ive done a tune-up and all that recently
just makin sure im not forgetting anything big
I wouldn't touch the rotors unless your brake pedal pulses hard during braking. Rotating tires is easier than resurfacing rotors, I would recommend a tire rotation. Timing belt is big (due at 120k miles I'm pretty sure). Once you're getting that changed it's probably worth getting a new water pump. That's really about it, you don't want to fix what ain't broke.
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Originally Posted by 93XLEcamry
noob question but how do you check for seals and gaskets??? can you do it yourself or does it have to be done by a professional???
Which seals and gaskets? You can do the same thing as a pro. They're going to clean the area of a suspected leak, then run the engine and see if that's where the leak is coming from.
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I wouldn't touch the rotors unless your brake pedal pulses hard during braking. Rotating tires is easier than resurfacing rotors, I would recommend a tire rotation. Timing belt is big (due at 120k miles I'm pretty sure). Once you're getting that changed it's probably worth getting a new water pump. That's really about it, you don't want to fix what ain't broke.
Which seals and gaskets? You can do the same thing as a pro. They're going to clean the area of a suspected leak, then run the engine and see if that's where the leak is coming from.
X's 2
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i am getting pulsating - thats how i know my rotors need to be resurfaced ... timing belt and water pump are only 2 years old, so thats not an issue for another several thousand miles
im not sure which seals or gaskets i would check - the VCG is new, as most of you know (if you saw when i raped my valve cover during painting) ... not losing or burning oil, thought i might be burning a little bit because one of the 3 plugs i pulled last summer looked odd, but i havent really burnt a noticeable amount since the last oil change
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cam seal, crank seal, valve cover seals, tube's where the sparkplugs go sometimes leak and have to be taken apart for cleaning and resealing. theres also rear main seal and transmission pan seal, and also the axle seals. theres also a seal on the waterpump that can leak, theres seals on the oil pump also.
if there are no apparent leaks, then leave all seals alone
what you should check though, is the pcv valve again- just to be sure. People blow seals mainly because their pcv is clogged and the pressure then goes to the seals.
otherwise...not much else. a quick check of the sparkplugs would also be a good idea, I'd say
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Transmission and final drive oil changes is what I would add to the list. I also like to flush the power steering and brake fluids every few years, even if the book doesnt say anything about it. Brake fluid absorbs moisture from the air and at least German car makers call for it to be changed every 2-3 years.
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