3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
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Ok i am having a problem with my right power window, it wont roll down. I thought it was the master swicth because when i try to use the door lock button it would only lock but not unlock, however on the passanger side it works both ways. now when its comes to trying to roll down the window, neither the master or passanger swicth works, However the driver side window will roll down and up. I am thinking it is the window motor. Just want some extra input thanks
Seems to be the Regulator to me!...I've replaced 3 on my Coupes...(one to go!) Mine didn't just stop working tho. I was using the window on two brakeages, heard a loud pop, like a rock hit the window while I was sending it up, on each car. The 94's drivers side broke when I shut the Door memoral Day weekend, and it fell down into the door.
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96 Camry Coupe LE V6
98 Honda CRV
08 GMC Crew
11 Kia Sportage EX AWD
Often this is a broken wire. If you noticed the functions coming and going for a period of time before it completely failed, it is likely a broken wire in the rubber tube between the driver’s door and the body of the car. A quick test is to power up the car, hold the switch that should activate the broken function, and wiggle the rubber tube (and also open and close the door while holding the switch). If the function tries to work while doing this it is a broken wire.
If this test doesn't do anything you'll need to pull the door panel of the inoperative window & lock off. You may be able to see a problem or you may need to probe the contacts to see if you have power to the various motors when you activate the appropriate switch. Since the lock works from the passenger switch the lock mechanism must be OK and you likely have a wiring problem or master switch problem. For the window, you can reassure yourself by disconnecting the plug from the regulator and run pos & neg wires directly to the motor. It will go up one way, switch the wires and it will go down the other way. If it doesn't then the regulator is the problem. More likely it will work. This indicates a problem in the wiring or the master switch.
If you don't get any power indication in the passenger door with a probe or a multi meter you will need to return to the driver side door. Pull the driver side panel off and remove the master switch. Test the switch functions with an ohm meter. If the switch(es) work then check the voltage and/or continuity of the wires in the door. You may want to run an extension wire to the other end of the wire(s) in the passenger side door.
Sorry that this is so disjointed. It’s late. Hope it helps.
Kep
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Often, it's the loose screw between the steering wheel and the driver's seat that needs to be fixed first!
You don't have to pull the door off, just the inside door panel. It's a three minute job.
There's a bolt in the armrest and one above the booger pocket. There are push-pin fasteners on the sides of
the skin, too. Two on the back edge. And two screws on the front edge (not visible when the door is closed) under the two round caps.
Pop off the door handle trim (inside) by prying gently and using a thin flat bladed screwdriver to release the plastic tab that clips to the lock mechanism. You may have to pop out the door entry light and cover, too.
Gently pry the skin away from the door body and then lift the whole thing straight up along the path of the
window, carefully, holding it by the inside door handle, and remove the harness plugs to the control
panel and the light.
Everything in the door is pretty simple and pretty easy to work on. And as Camry door regulators from
this vintage only go bad very rarely, getting a good one from a junkyard is a cost-effective solution.
If it IS a wiring problem, the wiring harness in the door connects to the body by means of a plug
that you can access if you remove the bolts that secure the protective boot between the body and
the door. With that loosened, you can just unplug the whole wiring harness. I would get another
harness from a junkyard car and just replace it. It's not a lot of work to do it.
You don't have to pull the door off, just the inside door panel. It's a three minute job.
There's a bolt in the armrest and one above the booger pocket. There are push-pin fasteners on the sides of
the skin, too. Two on the back edge. And two screws on the front edge (not visible when the door is closed) under the two round caps.
Pop off the door handle trim (inside) by prying gently and using a thin flat bladed screwdriver to release the plastic tab that clips to the lock mechanism. You may have to pop out the door entry light and cover, too.
Gently pry the skin away from the door body and then lift the whole thing straight up along the path of the
window, carefully, holding it by the inside door handle, and remove the harness plugs to the control
panel and the light.
Everything in the door is pretty simple and pretty easy to work on. And as Camry door regulators from
this vintage only go bad very rarely, getting a good one from a junkyard is a cost-effective solution.
If it IS a wiring problem, the wiring harness in the door connects to the body by means of a plug
that you can access if you remove the bolts that secure the protective boot between the body and
the door. With that loosened, you can just unplug the whole wiring harness. I would get another
harness from a junkyard car and just replace it. It's not a lot of work to do it.
CJ
lol i know i do not need to take the whole door off, Anyhow i did pull the door a part and i got mix number on my meter. So i rather just get the whole door wire harness and a regulator for the passager door and go on from there. With that said, anyboby with the those two parts hit me up
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