3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
I would just pop the value cover. i had to do it when i accidently pushed the PCV garment into the value cover. Then a few days later i learned about sludge and i was super happy because i remembered that my engine was pretty clean.
Also once u remove the spark plug nuts and the screws holding that cable over the cover, u might need to pry to cover in the 4 corners to remove it. I know mine was stuck on pretty tight.
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1995 Camry V6 LE - Sold
1998 Camry LE
1992 SC300 5SPD
1992 SC400
Just changed my oil this past friday and everything seems to be running good, but you can never really tell. Will have to open up the front valve cover and take a look to really find out though. Anyways, here's a bit of reading for ya!
This is a printed article from www.theautochannel.com, dated June 1996. It is sponsored by Pennzoil Motor Oil Company and that's why there is reference to that product in the article.
I found the article informative for all to read regarding the formation of the dreaded engine sludge that many Toyota owners are finding in their vehicles.
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Horror stories have been passed around for years about this motor oil or that motor oil causing sludge. The fact of the matter is that no motor oil causes sludge. In fact, motor oil actually helps prevent sludge.
Then where does sludge come from? In our continuing quest for oiling systems knowledge, I thought it would be good to take a minute and further investigate what sludge is, how it forms, and how to prevent it. I also want to explain how a top-quality motor oil, like Pennzoil, keeps engines free of sludge, deposits and corrosion.
The Sludge Monster
We've all probably taken apart an engine or seen an engine that's been consumed by the "sludge monster." It's not a pretty sight and has been the cause of death of many engines. The first clue that an engine has been inhabited by the sludge monster usually becomes evident during an oil change (when the thick goo dribbles out the oil pan drain hole or nothing at all comes out). We usually identify the fatal cases of sludge monster victims after the vehicle arrives at the shop under the auxiliary power of a wrecker.
Contaminants and Sludge
Contaminants are deadly enemies of an engine. They enter with the air flow and are also generated by the friction of metal against metal. These facts may astound you: for every 100 gallons of gasoline burned in an engine, the following by-products are produced:
90 to 120 gallons of water
3 to 10 gallons of unburned gasoline
1/2 to 3 pounds of soot and carbon
1/4 to 1 pound of varnish
1 to 4 pounds of sulfuric and nitric acid
A measurable percentage of these by-products ends up in the motor oil. Detergents and dispersants in the oil must be able to keep most of these con-taminants neutralized or suspended in the oil as microscopic particles so they don't form sludge, damaging deposits and corrosion. When the waste materials are dispersed properly in the oil, the filter can trap the larger particles. During an oil change, the contaminants too small to be filtered are re-moved with the engine oil. Looks good on paper, right? So much for the perfect world. It's important to note here that good air filters and good oil filters trap more contaminants than lesser quality filters, making the oil's job easier.
Paraffin-based Crude Oils
Most people relate the word paraffin to candle wax. This is a correct association, BUT one of the most incorrect and widely circulated misconceptions about sludge is that it forms more easily in paraffin-based motor oils. This couldn't be further from the truth. All major motor oils, in fact, are formulated using a paraffin-based crude oil. Naphthenic-based crude oils are actually more likely to form sludge in an engine than oils formulated with paraffin-based crude oils. This is due to the higher breakdown resistance of paraffin-based crude oils. O.K., so how does sludge really form?
How Sludge Forms
Sludge formation begins when the chemically suspended particles of contaminants begin to settle out of the oil. It's a fairly daunting task for engine oil to suspend all the contaminants thrown at it, and any engine oil can do this successfully to a point. Pennzoil, and some other quality motor oils, are able to perform this task more effectively and for longer periods of time. But eventually, if the oil is not changed often enough, a "breaking point" will be reached. This breaking point is either when there are too many contaminants to handle or when the oil's chemical defenses are weakened, and it is caused by two main things: excessive accumulation of contaminants in the oil and chemical changes in the makeup of the oil itself (depletion of the additives and oxidation).
As more particles are suspended, less of the additives are available to do their job. Knowing this makes it easy to see why too much time between oil changes can be one cause of the oil reaching its "breaking point".
A Surprise Visit From the Sludge Monster
Another cause may surprise you: running the engine low on oil for a prolonged period of time can cause sludge. The detergent and oxidation inhibitors are important components of the additive package that prevent sludge from forming. When an engine is run low on oil, these additives have to work overtime to do their job. There is simply less of the additive package available to do the work of suspending particles and preventing oxidation (thickening) of the oil.
Here is the surprise part: running an engine just one quart low on oil for about as long as some technicians work in one week (about 55 hours) can increase the viscosity, or the thickness, of the oil by over 1000%!!! I don't know many technicians, or car owners for that matter, who would like to run 5,000-30,000W oil in their car's engine. If you factor the effects of the increasing use of self-service gas stations into the equation, you can see how the sludge monster can unintentionally be invited to pay a visit to so many engines.
Eliminate Surprises
The sludge monster's invitation can be repeatedly rejected. To keep the sludge monster looking for a dinner date in someone else's engine, use a quality oil like Pennzoil, with its super powerful Z-7¨ additive package and change it at recommended intervals. It's like making sure the Kryptonite never gets near Superman.
We're the Automotive Systems Analysts
Our customers look to us to know the various vehicle systems and how they operate. The oiling system is no exception; it's the life blood of the engine. I hope this information adds to your ever-growing base of automotive technical information and helps you to explain motor oil's importance to your customers. Next issue, now that the sludge monster is running scared, we'll take a look at the other additives in motor oil that weren't discussed here. We'll see that the slippery substance is truly a chemical wonder.
* Pete Sullivan is a technician and owner of Sullivan's Advanced Auto Care in Houston, Texas. He is a triple master certified by the National Institute of Automotive Service Excellence (ASE). He holds a B.S. degree in Physics and Chemistry.
DETROIT — Toyota acknowledged Wednesday that millions of its cars and trucks could develop a ruinous oil-sludge problem and said it would repay owners who have had to make repairs.
Toyota says the problem is caused by going too long between oil changes, but nevertheless says it is changing the engine design to prevent a repeat.
Affected: 3.0-liter V-6 and 2.2-liter four-cylinder engines in more than 3.5 million 1997-2002 Toyota Camrys, Avalons, Highlanders and Siennas and Lexus ES and RX 300s.
Toyota says it will repay owners for repairs and other related expenses, such as car rentals.
Toyota had been resisting repayment, prompting angry owners to demand arbitration, hire lawyers and vent on the Internet.
Toyota's acknowledgment of a potential problem is significant because of the reputation Toyota and Lexus enjoy for high quality.
"I was a loyal Toyota owner, on my third, but this is my last because of the way they have treated this," says Robin Burpee, a Sienna minivan owner in Mendon, Mich. She spent $5,000 on repairs, car rentals and other expenses.
Lawyers in Georgia and Florida have been gathering steam to seek class-action status for a planned lawsuit against Toyota.
Marketing experts say Toyota's decision is an example of how persuasive the Internet can be. "Where do people go to research their car purchase? The Net," says marketing consultant Paul Franklin.
"I'm sure Toyota hates to see so many complaint sites come up on a Google search of its brand," he says, referring to the Internet search engine.
Toyota spokesman John Hanson acknowledges that the anti-Toyota Internet comments contributed to the decision. But, he says, "It is not an engine defect. We are sure the problem comes from people not changing their oil often enough."
Hanson says the problems have been concentrated where winters are extremely cold and summers are especially humid and among owners who make a lot of short trips. Hanson says the company is making an immediate change to its V-6 engine that will give a wider margin of error if people wait too long to change their oil. A redesign of the four-cylinder already incorporated a similar change.
DETROIT — Toyota acknowledged Wednesday that millions of its cars and trucks could develop a ruinous oil-sludge problem and said it would repay owners who have had to make repairs.
Toyota says the problem is caused by going too long between oil changes, but nevertheless says it is changing the engine design to prevent a repeat.
Affected: 3.0-liter V-6 and 2.2-liter four-cylinder engines in more than 3.5 million 1997-2002 Toyota Camrys, Avalons, Highlanders and Siennas and Lexus ES and RX 300s.
Toyota says it will repay owners for repairs and other related expenses, such as car rentals.
Toyota had been resisting repayment, prompting angry owners to demand arbitration, hire lawyers and vent on the Internet.
Toyota's acknowledgment of a potential problem is significant because of the reputation Toyota and Lexus enjoy for high quality.
"I was a loyal Toyota owner, on my third, but this is my last because of the way they have treated this," says Robin Burpee, a Sienna minivan owner in Mendon, Mich. She spent $5,000 on repairs, car rentals and other expenses.
Lawyers in Georgia and Florida have been gathering steam to seek class-action status for a planned lawsuit against Toyota.
Marketing experts say Toyota's decision is an example of how persuasive the Internet can be. "Where do people go to research their car purchase? The Net," says marketing consultant Paul Franklin.
"I'm sure Toyota hates to see so many complaint sites come up on a Google search of its brand," he says, referring to the Internet search engine.
Toyota spokesman John Hanson acknowledges that the anti-Toyota Internet comments contributed to the decision. But, he says, "It is not an engine defect. We are sure the problem comes from people not changing their oil often enough."
Hanson says the problems have been concentrated where winters are extremely cold and summers are especially humid and among owners who make a lot of short trips. Hanson says the company is making an immediate change to its V-6 engine that will give a wider margin of error if people wait too long to change their oil. A redesign of the four-cylinder already incorporated a similar change.
Why is Toyota only paying the ones from 1997-2001? Does that mean us gen 3 is safe?
The number one reason for oil changes is to prevent the formation of sludge. It's important to understand how sludge forms and how sludge formation is prevented.
How Sludge is Prevented
Additive in the detergent oils 'wash' any contaminant particles off of internal engine parts and hold these particles in suspension until the oil is changed. It's important to understand that these particles are too small to cause engine wear, but they do turn the oil a darker color. The key thing is to change the oil before the oil becomes too saturated with contaminants to hold any more, but color is not an indication of this condition.
How Sludge Forms
As explained above, modern detergent oils suspend contaminants so they do not settle on engine parts and form sludge. When the oil becomes saturated with contaminant particles new particles settle out of the oil onto the internal engine parts and form sludge. This is why it is so critical to perform oil changes before this level of contamination is reached. The only way to know if you're oil needs changing is to have an oil analysis done. Absent this, play it safe and follow the severe service interval specified in the owners manual. Remember that the contaminants come from the combustion process of the gasoline and and the air. Synthetic oil will not prevent these contaminants. Synthetics may be marginally better at suspending more contaminant particles, but not enough to prolong oil changes by much.
Never attempt to clean the inside of your engine with one of those engine flush procedures that many shops try to sell. If you've been diligent about oil changes there will be no sludge. If there is a lot of sludge then the last thing you want to do is to dislodge it all at once.
Oil Change Intervals
Few subjects generate as much debate on Usenet as the proper oil change interval. Since few people bother with oil analysis the debate centers on time and mileage.
Follow the Money
Unfortunately, there are market forces that have a vested interest in convincing vehicle owners to change their oil more often than necessary. The legal prey of these market forces have become convinced that they are purchasing "cheap insurance" or "peace of mind" by changing their oil more often than necessary. Complicating things is the fact that doing oil changes is one of the few do-it-yourself maintenance tasks that is still within the ability of the backyard mechanic to perform.
Recreational Oil Changing
The term "recreational oil changer" was coined to define people that change their oil far more than necessary because they actually enjoy doing it. It's easy to understand the psychology behind the recreational oil changing. It's the visceral feel of the tools, the victory when that old oil filter breaks free, the hot dirty oil pouring out, the joy of oiling of the gasket on the new filter, that new copper or fiber gasket on the drain plug, the clean clear oil going in, and the sense of accomplishment when you start the car, the oil light comes on for a moment, then goes out. For $8-10 in oil and parts, it's pretty cheap entertainment, but if people would be content to do it only when it provides some benefit to the vehicle it would be better.
The 3000 Mile Myth
The 3000 mile oil change interval has been pounded into people's heads for decades. It had a scientific basis when engines used non-multi-weight, non-detergent oil. It no longer has any scientific basis, but it is still being promoted by certain entities, most notably the oil change industry in the United States. This myth is also sometimes known as the "Cheap Insurance Myth."
The 3000 Mile Fact
There are still vehicles that need 3K oil changes, but it's not because the oil goes bad after 3K miles. One example is the Saturn S series. These vehicles have a timing chain system that is very sensitive to clean oil because oil pressure is used as hydraulic fluid to ratchet up the timing chain tensioner. If varnish forms in the timing chain tensioner bore then this system can fail and the chain will become loose and eventually break. Dealers have gone as far as tearing out the normal service schedule (6000 miles) and leaving only the severe service schedule. If your engine is destroyed (under warranty) by a failed timing chain then the dealer will legitimately request evidence of oil changes. Unfortunately this problem usually won't manifest itself during the warranty period.
The Dark Oil Myth
Dark oil does not indicate the need for an oil change. The way modern detergent motor oil works is that minute particles of soot are suspended in the oil. These minute particles pose no danger to your engine, but they cause the oil to darken. A non-detergent oil would stay clearer than a detergent oil because all the soot would be left on the internal engine parts and would create sludge. If you never changed your oil, eventually the oil would no longer be able to suspend any more particles in the oil and sludge would form. Fortunately, by following the manufacturer's recommended oil change interval, you are changing your oil long before the oil has become saturated. Remember, a good oil should get dirty as it does it's work cleaning out the engine. The dispersant should stop all the gunk from depositing in the oil pan.
The only real way to determine whether oil is truly in need of changing is to have an oil analysis performed. Since most people don't want to bother with this, it's acceptable to err heavily on the safe side and simply follow the manufacturer's recommended change interval for severe service. There are still a few cars that specify 3K intervals for severe service, but not many. If you look at countries other than the U.S., the oil recommended change interval is much higher than even the normal interval specified by vehicle manufacturers in the U.S.
Severe Service versus Normal Service
Each manufacturer specifies what constitutes normal and severe service. Generally, severe service consists of operating the vehicle in a very muddy or dusty areas (because dust particles get through the air filter and contaminate the oil more quickly), operating the vehicle in a very hot areas (heat breaks down oil more quickly), using the vehicle only for short trips in cold weather (the moisture in the oil never gets vaporized), or using the vehicle for towing or when carrying a car-top carrier. You'll often see claims such as "everyone falls into the severe service category," but these claims are untrue (follow the money and see who's making these claims). If you primarily do freeway driving in moderate weather you do not fall into the severe service category. If you're in doubt, the best way to see if you fall into the severe service category is to have an oil analysis done at the mileage of the severe service interval. Many people just like to play it safe and follow the severe service schedule, which is fine, but there is no benefit in changing the oil sooner than the severe service schedule states.
Maintenance Schedules Vary by Country
Different countries have different maintenance schedules, even for the same car. This fact has been the cause of long argument threads on Usenet. How could the exact same car need a different service schedule simply because of where the vehicle is used? At least part of the reason is due to the differences in fuel. For example, the U.S. and Canada has fuel with high sulphur levels which can cause more oil contamination. Japanese fuel has very low sulphur levels. Europe is in-between. Some of the newer engine technology (direct injection) which raises fuel economy, requires low sulphur fuel. Of course the oil companies have a vested interest in not lowering the sulphur as it adds to refining cost and enables more fuel efficient engines. Since "Big Oil" is in bed with the un-elected president in the U.S., don't expect any action of lower sulphur fuel for a while in the United States. If Al Gore is re-elected in 2004, and the Supremes don't simply ignore the election results again, then there is a chance for lower sulphur fuel in the U.S. beginning in 2005.
Oil change intervals with synthetic oil
Synthetic oils withstand higher temperatures before breaking down, and have more base stock and less viscosity modifiers. Synthetics wear out, become acidic, and eventually become saturated with suspended soot particles, just like regular oil. Again, an oil analysis is a good investment to determine the optimum oil change interval. Never exceed the manufacturer requirements for normal service.
Filter Change Interval
Back in the days of 3000 mile oil changes many manufacturers recommended filter changes only half as often because the filter did not become clogged with dirt at only 3000 miles. This was good advice back then, especially because with non-detergent motor oils a lot of the sludge remained stuck to internal engine parts rather than being carried in the oil to the filter. Nowadays the filter should be changed at every oil change. There are some people who believe so much in synthetic oil that they change filters without changing the oil. There's no harm in changing the filter without changing the oil, but there is no point in doing this.
Do-it-yourself versus paying someone to do it
Oil changes are pretty inexpensive when done at a reputable repair shop or dealer. Most dealers offer oil change specials that cost less than the quick-change oil places, and the dealers do a better job and use better filters. Where I live the dealers have very long service department hours including on Saturday (some on Sunday). The dealers also offer a time guarantee, generally that they'll get you in and out in less than 30 minutes or the next oil change is on them. Another advantage of having it done at a repair shop or dealer is that you have solid legal proof of the date and mileage when the oil change took place. My personal preference is to have the oil changed at a dealer during the warranty period. Edmunds has a page on secret warranties that states: "If you service your vehicle through an independent or aftermarket facility, what does the manufacturer owe you in terms of assistance? Manufacturers cannot control the quality of the parts used or work performed when you service your vehicle through aftermarket service facilities. Also remember that the treatment you receive as a customer has a great deal to do with you being a loyal customer to the dealer and the manufacturer."
Check Your Oil
Check your oil level at least every other fill-up. It's easy to become complacent about this, especially because few modern vehicles burn much oil. However there are still a few vehicles that have serious oil burning problems and owners have wrecked their engines by running out of oil.
Since Toyota has started the Special Policy Adjustment for model years between 1997 - 2001 this page will pertain to owners of earlier engines with the problem.
If you have an engine with the sludge problem and it's one of the models covered by the Special Policy Adjustment for "gel" then contact the dealer for assistance.
Automotive News article 4/3/02 & 2/8/02
I get a lot of questions about owners being told that because of engine sludge build-up they now need an new engine. In some cases that is true so lets offer some examples and see where you fit in.
Engine sludged and the motor will not turn over. You need a motor, the cost of repairing that one will exceed the cost of a new short block assembly. When the engine is torn down for removal they will check the cylinder head assemblies for damage and you may need to have more work done.
Engine sludged and the motor makes fairly loud noises when its running. You need to replace the short block and maybe the cylinder heads. Once the engine is torn down for removal will they know for sure if the cylinder heads and associated parts are good or bad.
Engine smokes and runs but does not have any noise. You probably have a good engine and all that needs to be done is cleaning the engine. It sounds easy but its labor intensive to do a good job. It really is not all that difficult (again if the engine is quiet when running). NOTE: Before starting the repair make sure you have all the parts you need or a way to get them once the engine is apart. The best way to clean the engine of sludge is to follow this formula:
1) Get the engine hot.
2) Take off the valve covers and using Diesel fuel in a spray bottle, spray the cylinder heads and other sludged parts. The Diesel fuel, when applied to a hot or very warm surface, will actually make the sludge flow off the parts and then using a scrub brush of some type start brushing the area and it will make it look new.
3) Now that Diesel fuel and sludge will wind up in the oil pan and that needs to come off also and be cleaned.
4) You then need to replace the oil pump pick-up screen (cleaning may work if you are careful), the valve cover (Covers if V-6) will normally need to be replaced. Cleaning the valve covers is difficult since the vented area toward the top of the cover can't be cleaned.
5) Clean the intake as well as you can, change the oil and filter, PCV valve and once together run the engine for a short time, then replace the oil and filter again to be safe. You will probably need to clean the throttle body to allow the engine to idle, the sludge will build up a varnish that may prevent base idle.
If things were not to bad to begin with you can probably get it done for as little as a couple of hundred dollars if you "repair" some parts instead of replacing them.
Some dealers take the cylinder head off others do not. Taking them off does a better job but adds to the cost, cleaning on the engine should be good for the repair.
Some are saying that the piston rings should be replaced. Since the problem is a sludge problem which is results in oil laying on metal surfaces the piston rings are not affected and do not need to be replaced.
Using some in mine right now. Just says to put in to crankcase, so just going to run for a short time and do another oil change. My engine seems to run fine and getting exactly 22.5mpg like it states I should so can't complain. Marvel Mystery Oil is another good one for putting in the oil . Ran it all the time in my I6 and it ran like new @ just over 300,000km
Also from what I'm finding is you have a build up of sludge, doing a oil flush can be bad as it'll loosen it all pretty quick and clog things up which is BAD.
First I'd say open up your front cover and see what's underneath. You may not be that bad, or actually in pretty good shape. With the v6's I've opened at the wreckers, only one I've found was really bad. As well, not doing a tune up is one thing, not changing the oil is an entirely different thing. You can get away without a tune up for a while, but without changing oil? EEK! Although it seems my care was fairly well maintained, tune-ups weren't as important. [fuel filter now changed and didn't seem like it was done in a very long time, and when I changed my PCV out, it was pretty bad. Changing it has stopped my oil leaking issue!]
Asked my mechanic a couple things about my engine that didn't look normal to me. Seems that at some point my engine was changed out, which would explain the orange RTV between the engine and the tranny! So how many km's do I have on it?? No clue. 332,000km on the care and counting, but engine is a mystery, although if the engine was changed out, most likely a lot lower mileage engine was used. It runs nice and quiet and smooth, so I'm happy. That's the one problem of getting a used car. You never totally quite know about it's maintenance. I know that it was a leased vehicle for a lot of its' life, so in that way it was probably maintained especially since the shape it is in. Let's hope I'm right!
when i find sometime in the near future, i'm gonna pop my valve cover open and see how the fucker is doing.
if it's dirty i'll spray it down with deep creep seafoam, and then, i'll clean the throttle body..
and then an oil change very quickly
Really the only way to find out for sure and give you piece of mind. Front valve cover is easy enough to get off. [cant' remember if you have the 4 or 6 cycl] At least once you know, you know from there what needs to be done, and what you need to do to maintain it. A good maintained engine can last a hell of a long time, especially a well built one. Hell, I know of an 4.0 I6 that's pushing 1million on the original engine! From what I've been hearing about the engine in my camry, if it's built nearly as well, it'll have a long life is well maintained.
Next big thing to do is the plugs and wires, and deep creep the intake out. Pretty much everythign else has been done now although I think a new air filter is in order very soon.
Here's the not-really Patented Typrus method.
READ THE WHOLE THING
I am not responsible for any problems. Take it all with a grain of salt.
Remember, if large amounts of sludge exist, filters can be plugged by the sudden enslaught of goop. WATCH THAT DUMMY LIGHT!!
This is all assuming a 5SFE. Substitute for according oil capacity for any other engine.
You are going to need...
-2 cheap oil filters. Fram anyone?
-A very good oil filter (the Purolator PureONE for the V-6 works very well)
-7 quarts of cheap oil (Wal-Mart 10w-30 or Autozone brand 10w-30 works fine)
-4 quarts of very good oil (I personally like Valvoline Full Synthetic oils, like SynPower or Full-Syn High Mileage, which is also available at Wally-World... get the 5-quart jug if available, if not 4 quarts works fine)
-1 bottle of High-Mileage Engine Flush, readily available at Autozone (its in a grey bottle)
-A can of BG 109 CPR, available from your local BG Products supplier (their engine flush... Compression Restoration stuff)
-A new copper or nylon drain plug gasket
-A shallow-ish oil drain pan. One you can use with the car sitting on the ground on a level surface.
-A place to deposit at least 3 gallons of oil in a short amount of time. Old milk or windshield-washer fluid jugs work. No running off to the local Autozone to dump your oil in between.
IF AT ANY TIME the engine makes noises out of the ordinary, or the oil light comes on, SHUT IT OFF!!! You don't want a seized motor!
-Get your oil hot. I mean, full operating temp and drive fairly hard. Have your oil change equipment ready at home. Pull in, keep idling till the drain pan is under the car and you are absolutely ready to pop off the drain plug (a shallow pan will fit under without ramps or jacks, just make sure it'll at least hold 5 quarts) Turn off, and pop off the drain plug. Bear in mind the oil will be H-O-T.
Why do it so quickly? Some particles start to fall out of the oil the moment it stopos circulating and as such will just re-deposit unless you get the oil out fast.
-If you bought 2 cheap filters, put one on now. If not, stick with your current guy. But a new cheap one is recommended.
-Replace the drain plug.
-Pour in 3 quarts of cheap oil, and the whole quart of the High Mileage Flush.
-Fire it up. Let it idle for about a minute.
-After its warmed up (you want the oil warm if not hot) pop the throttle a bit. DO NOT go bouncing off the rev limiter here.... The point is to vary RPM's, not get rev-happy. Don't go past 4k RPM's for now.
-Feel the oil filter periodically. Once you believe it is rather hot (indicating fully warmed oil) you will want to run a further 2-3 minutes of periodically varying the revs.
-IF AT ANY TIME the engine makes noises out of the ordinary, or the oil light comes on, SHUT IT OFF!!! Doesn't this statement look familiar?
-Now, prepare your fresh oil drain pan. Get ready to drain.
-Once everything is in position, shut it down and drain ASAP. Again, heat in the oil and as little time sitting still is your friend.
-Once totally drained, replace the drain plug and pop on another cheap filter.
-Pour the entire can of BG 109 in.
-Follow up with 4 quarts of cheap oil.
-Once you feel ready, fire it up again.
-Get the filter to the point of feeling warm.
-Now... Take it for a nice, leisurely cruise around a block or 2, but try not to go more than 5 miles, being very nice to it. DO NOT REV IT MADLY! YOUR ENGINE WILL BLOW UP!
-Once you get back from your leisurely cruise, again prepare to dump your oil. Same rule applies of having as little sitting time as possible.
-Dump your oil.
Now, if you suspect extreme sludging, you may want to repeat the High-Mileage engine flush 2 or 3 times before jumping on the BG 109.
-Once the oil is dumped and the cheap filter removed, put the new drain plug gasket on and re-install your drain plug. Put on your new nice filter, being sure to make sure to lube the seal! Oh, and make sure the old filters seal didn't stay on the block.... Double sealing doesn't end well.
-Pour in your nice oil.
If you want to, you can add some anti-wear additives. I personally like LubroMoly MOS2. It's straight-up Molybdenum Di-Sulphide. Awesome additive.
This will definitely clean up some deposits. However, be warned that if there were deposits plugging holes in seals or gaskets, the holes will now be free to seep oil.
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